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3.5" Headers & Midplate

Mike67

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So ive posted a few random threads mainly about the accumulation of parts for my build...A while back I came across a brand new set of Doug's 2"x3 1/2 ceramic coated headers super cheap so I jumped on them. Well this weekend I was messing around and just kind of set them in the engine bay where I thought they would be approx... They look like they will be hitting the torsion bar and midplate. Is anyone running elephant ears and midplate w these headers? :thankyou:
 
I have a midplate in my black '66 Charger but it's torn apart for upgrades right now. It's going to be tight!

Is there a reason you are running a midplate instead of a fore-aft limiter? We went midplate so the engine is supported when the transmission is out (manual trans car) so I feel your pain.
 
No, not really. The car is an old drag car and is setup for both midplate & elephant ears...I guess I can remove it...one of the guys here posted a limiter he built that was pretty nice. I wish I would have saved the thread ...He made two brackets off of the crossmember and an adjusting sleeve with a heim on each end and attached it to the last two bolts on the trans....I wanted to use spool mounts initially but they had cut the attachments off of the k frame and pretty much ground it smooth so adding/fabbing new attachments would be a pain with out a reference...people have told me just run the plates so I figured that's what I would do...
 
Your engine/trans package was made longer by the thickness of the midplate. My guess is the trans mount was modified. Be prepared to 'unmodify' whatever might have been changed. Also,while its good to try and spot problems ahead of time,eyeballing the headers like that,I dont know if thats a good idea. Car had headers before right? New ones should fit.
 
Everything was out of the car when I purchased it, so I reall don't have any exacting refeference... I'm just seeing if anyone has this setup and what problems they experienced...the cross member looks oe as well & the mid plate is made of what looks like to be 12-10ga sheet metal..
 
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Sheet metal huh. I would take it out then. But if it fits the block accurately save it for a pattern. Could come in handy for yourself or a friend.
 
I knew ford had them , I think they called them separator plates....on my set up there are two hoops ( one on ea. side) of 5/8 barstock that come off the top of the frame and loops back into the side of the frame. Ea. has a tab welded onto it and that's where the plate attaches. The plate is the the same shape as the bell housing and drilled with bolt holes...similar to this one...Which leads me to the next question, do I need the same size spacer for my flex plate /tc... With that measurement is there a chance of the tc not being fully engaged in the trans shaft????

cee-4031.jpg
 
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TCs have a bit of leeway in engauging. The first thing to disengauge would be the trans pump. If that plate is thin like you said I wouldnt worry about it.
 
I think you should be good on the trans mount because the bolt holes are slotted where it attaches to the tail shaft.
 
That looks like more than sheet metal to me. Don't see why that wouldn't work, if you think you need it. Have you measured the exact thickness? To me, elephant ears are easier to work with as they are right at the front of the motor. Then you have more room at the back for headers, starter, etc.
 
I haven't mic'ed it, but I would say it might be 1/8th at most.. If all it does is support the rear, I guess I'll remove it....
 
So you use the rear support along with the elephant ears? I have always used the ones at the front only, and that has worked well for me.
 
So you use the rear support along with the elephant ears? I have always used the ones at the front only, and that has worked well for me.

Can you post some pics of your set up? Not sure how they had it set up, the way you are it is the way I bought it....the elephant ears were in the trunk but the mounts are installed on the frame...Not sure how they ran it though...
 
I had a 65 Belvedere 413 and a 74 Duster 440 with that set up, but I no longer have those cars. Someone else here prob has or can find some pics to post. The top part of the E Ear is sandwiched between the water pump and the block. And there are holes in the mounts that line up with the water passages in the block, for coolant flow. You should also have 3 bolt holes on each mount for the water pump bolts. Make sure the bolts are plenty long! You also need a water pump gasket on each side of the elephant ear.
 
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