383 Engine Build

[superbird77]

Ok, some help and ideas to build a 383 for my 69 roadrunner 4 speed project. I have a few limitations, I want it to look somewhat stock since its a N96 air grabber car and i want to retain the factory fit and function. Lastly, it's gotta run on pump gas since its a street car.

What type of build would yield the most power based on my limits? I am most likely using the 440 source stealth heads On this build. Is a stroker the best bet? What type of hp is obtainable on this build? Thanks guys.

 

[charger318]

Well I can tell you the old man (my dad) has two 383 in garage now both being bored, 440 crank, 452 heads ported a lot, zero deck height, for u probably just flat tops so no problem with pump gas. I don't know about the stealth heads what specs are for it but u could always build a high compression high revving machine 383 are great for that too

 

[Chase383]

I'll be following this closely...

I want to do pretty much the exact same thing with my '71. I don't have much help to offer right now.... I asked the very same question on another forum, and got no consensus what so ever.

One bit of info I can assist with is intake manifold selection.... you are very limited with what will fit under the AG setup. I chose an Edelbrock DP4B for mine as I was told that this intake would fit under the AG with a 440 baseplate.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Try the Comp Cams XE 274 hyd, Stealth 84 cc heads, pistons set at zero deck height. The Holley Street Dominator intake performs well, and is low profile so it may work with your hood. Use a .035 head gasket, this will give you good squish/quench.Good Headers with a Free flowing ex system. These specs put into a C/R calculator yields 9.5 to 1 C/R. Which should work well on a street engine. If you used a 3.75" stroke, bumps C/R to 10.4 to 1. This is a guide line as a place to start. Build your engine on the computer first using all available tools and calculators. Pay careful attention to final C/R. You will save yourself a lot of headaches if you do it this way. We built my sons 383 like this except we used 12 to 1 dome pistons and 915 heads. It runs great!

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Also remember there is no replacement for displacement

 

[cryplydog]

super, it costs the same to rebuild a 440 as it does a 383 but lots more power. also, if you are going to buy a new manifold, cam etc. that's even better.

 

[charger318]

If you want original look with added power I'd put 440 crank for added stroke, bore it 30 or 60 over for added cylinder volume plus alittle added CR just from boring, run the heads u want for good flow, short intake to clear air grabber and dominator Carb. I can ask my dad what intake he ran when he had his 70 roadrunner 383 air grabber Hood 4 speed and let u know what it was for height purpose. Good luck

 

[HYRDGOON]

This is a good read

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0209_upgrading_the_383_magnum_avs_carb/

 

[gdrill]

Thanx Hydrogoon. That is a good article and gives me some enthusiasm for my 383!

 

[Garys1969RR]

if you start with a 400 block they are stronger and have a bigger bore to start with. Then bore it .035 OS to 4.375 bore, with 3.75" stroke its a 451! Then there are a lot of ring combos go with that size. 4.370 not so common.

 

[superbird77]

Thanks for the help so far guys. appreciated.

 

[rrTor-Red]

Ok, some help and ideas to build a 383 for my 69 roadrunner 4 speed project. I have a few limitations, I want it to look somewhat stock since its a N96 air grabber car and i want to retain the factory fit and function. Lastly, it's gotta run on pump gas since its a street car.

What type of build would yield the most power based on my limits? I am most likely using the 440 source stealth heads On this build. Is a stroker the best bet? What type of hp is obtainable on this build? Thanks guys.

I will be watching this thread myself. Earlier, I talked to my friend who has the exact same car with a 4 speed and AG as well. He's looking for the same in his motor. He tells me he's "electronically challenged" so he wanted me to post a subject on his behalf but I guess you beat me to the punch.

 

[HT413]

I've been planning a motor build and have looked at everything from a stroker 440, stroker 383, all the way down to just bolt ons for my current motor. Mind you, I've never done one, this is just from my research (which I consider to be pretty exhaustive). But IMHO, building your stock stroke 383 for mid 400's hp with the stealth heads will cost like $3k to $4k or so depending on what you already own (mostly just heads and machining).

The next 200 hp will cost you another $5k between head work, stroker kit, valve train, studs and girdle, upgraded fuel delivery, the list goes on. That doesn't include upgrading the trans and drivetrain or stiffening the chassis, all of which may be necessary depending on how far you take it.

Just be honest with your budget, because once you buy that stroker kit, it's on.

 

[superbird77]

That's a good point HT413. With having the air grabber setup i know i am somewhat limited. I don't mind spending some extra to maximize my build, its not something i want to do twice. Has anyone used the stroker kits 440 Source sells? I am wondering if the kit would be advisable given my limitations with the AG. My basic idea is the 383 bored over, stealth heads, stroker kit, Holley Street Dominator or M1 intake, demon carb, and shorty headers.

I know i am limited in the intake selection, from my research the Holley street dominator, Mopar M1 or Edelbrock performer should work if i use a 440 AG base plate.

 

[Meep-Meep]

If you want to squeeze as much out of that low block as you can and still drive it on junk gas you should go with a stroker. If you plan to retain the factory iron intake then don't go so big on the cubes that the intake becomes a major restriction. 9.5:1 CR, mild cam with 112 lobe separation and a factory AVS from a 440. I'd run headers to get the most out of the exhaust.

 

[Chase383]

I guess one question we should be asking is how "stock" do you want your engine to look?

If you want to be sneaky then obviously non-stock intakes and headers are out... that should effect what the "best" package is for you. Not trying to thread jack... but on the engine I plan to build I want it to "look" as close to stock as possible... which means no headers, fancy valve covers or tall intakes.

I know strokers are all the rage now... but I've never warmed up to them. Who knows, it may just be my ignorance showing. But thinking of an engine in overly simplistic terms... its an air-pump. Making the pump larger while keeping the inlet and outlet the same size seems like wasted effort.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I guess one question we should be asking is how "stock" do you want your engine to look?

If you want to be sneaky then obviously non-stock intakes and headers are out... that should effect what the "best" package is for you. Not trying to thread jack... but on the engine I plan to build I want it to "look" as close to stock as possible... which means no headers, fancy valve covers or tall intakes.

I know strokers are all the rage now... but I've never warmed up to them. Who knows, it may just be my ignorance showing. But thinking of an engine in overly simplistic terms... its an air-pump. Making the pump larger while keeping the inlet and outlet the same size seems like wasted effort.

I agree, which is why I suggested to the OP to not go too big on the cubes or too crazy on the cam. With the 383 he can make a low block 426 and run the stock intake AND make good power. I run a 440 with a stock intake and it runs high 12's in a 4000 lb car. I do have headers and recommend he use them.

 

[superbird77]

I do want a somewhat stock looking engine but i don't mind a modern intake and i will run shorty headers. The rest will look stock. I spoke with 440 Source yesterday and they suggested their 438 kit based on using a non hi-rise intake. They did tell me to use a cam with under 500 lift though.

 

[Garys1969RR]

I do want a somewhat stock looking engine but i don't mind a modern intake and i will run shorty headers. The rest will look stock. I spoke with 440 Source yesterday and they suggested their 438 kit based on using a non hi-rise intake. They did tell me to use a cam with under 500 lift though.

That's the deal with the stealth heads. Stay at or below .500" lift, or change the locks/keepers. Then you can go higher lift.

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The only thing that will make a difference on height where the intake mounts is the block you choose. From there you could use a Street Dominator no problem. I use one on my 69 RR with air grabber, and no issues. An M-1 will prob be too high.

 

[superbird77]

Thanks Garys1969RR. The block i am using is a stock 1969 383. Are you pretty happy with the Holley SD intake? I have been told you can use a 440 AG base plate to gain an extra 1/2 inch if needed. Are you using the stealth heads by chance?

 

[Chase383]

IIRC a Holley SD is 1" taller than a stock intake... might fit.

Did Holley every make a SD for B enigines? I was always under the impression they are only for RBs