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383hp comes out of storage

hdwrench

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a good friend of mine needed some help , naturally i assisted . we talked about my car build and he gifted me a 1968 383hp engine . it was pulled a few years ago to make room for a fire breathing 440 and stored in a clean dry barn . he rotated it occasionally so it still free . it will replace my 318la . he suggested we pull the valve covers install new valve seals and gaskets , pull the oil pan to install the proper one w the proper oil pickup new gaskets too . i’m needing to get a carb and distributor. my question is - will that be enough to install and run it ? i have other concerns . he seems confident that that will get it ready to put her in . i wonder about condition of valves , cam … what cam is in it etc… he say it was a good strong engine when pulled but don’t know the specifics! what are your thoughts on it ?
 
Your going to need a big block transmission or bellhousing if your manual equipped.
 
Are there accessories on it?
Radiator connections will likely change
Power steering pump
Alternator brackets
Hoses
Belts
Exhaust

It's not as simple as you might think.
 
You WILL prime the oil pump with a drill and roll it over twice to oil everything before starting it.

If you friend says it's a strong engine then thet should be good. Is he a flakey guy or do you TrusT him?
 
I think you're going to need a k-member too(?) or at least the motor mount brackets to adapt to the small block k.
 
...i wonder about condition of valves , cam … what cam is in it etc… he say it was a good strong engine when pulled but don’t know the specifics! what are your thoughts on it ?
If your friend couldn't provide you with any specs on the engine then...
While the engine is still out of the car, I'd tear it down enough to see if it's been built at all(bored, stroked, cam, etc.)
It's advantageous to know what you're working with later on when making adjustments or changes after the engine is installed in the car.
 
I think you're going to need a k-member too(?) or at least the motor mount brackets to adapt to the small block k.
He just needs the big block steel engine brackets. The small block rubber isolators will bolt to them and drop into the same V-8 crossmember. Small Block crossmember vs. Big Block crossmember is a myth. I have done a few of these conversions over the years. Small Block had the lower radiator inlet connection on the passenger side. Late '70's Big Blocks had a water pump housing that also had the inlet on the passenger side. Installing one of these is a lot easier than screwing around changing the lower rad inlet. As a bonus, there is now more room around the oil filter and PS steering pump.
 
You’re going to need a big block transmission or bellhousing if you’re manual equipped
Guess you do not trust your good friend.
i do but i wonder about the rest , thinking it’s much easier on the engine stand to check for leak down on valves and service heads if need be . maybe see what cam is in it and checkifters n valvetrain before it goes in .
 
He just needs the big block steel engine brackets. The small block rubber isolators will bolt to them and drop into the same V-8 crossmember. Small Block crossmember vs. Big Block crossmember is a myth. I have done a few of these conversions over the years. Small Block had the lower radiator inlet connection on the passenger side. Late '70's Big Blocks had a water pump housing that also had the inlet on the passenger side. Installing one of these is a lot easier than screwing around changing the lower rad inlet. As a bonus, there is now more room around the oil filter and PS steering pump.
Your going to need a big block transmission or bellhousing if your manual equipped.
have the bb trans and torque converter , trans kit on way , have bb engine brackets and new rubber mounts on way . have bb cross member on hand , cleaned and painted chassis black .
 
If your friend couldn't provide you with any specs on the engine then...
While the engine is still out of the car, I'd tear it down enough to see if it's been built at all(bored, stroked, cam, etc.)
It's advantageous to know what you're working with later on when making adjustments or changes after the engine is installed in the car.
thinking same …
 
You WILL prime the oil pump with a drill and roll it over twice to oil everything before starting it.

If you friend says it's a strong engine then thet should be good. Is he a flakey guy or do you TrusT him?
i trust , he a good guy , been doin this stuff for a long time . i’ll be sure to prime the oil pressure…
 
Are there accessories on it?
Radiator connections will likely change
Power steering pump
Alternator brackets
Hoses
Belts
Exhaust

It's not as simple as you might think.
manual steering and brake car , planned on getting a bb radiator anyway , don’t want no cooling issues . got hp exhaust manifolds, ordering a new complete system, alt and belts and hoses to be determined while on the stand ..
 
i’m happy to get some input on this from outside, see if i’m on right track and not missing anything to obvious. better to ask now ! we got a little winter left to get things going …
 
engine stand and then slap it in. You will be happy with a 383,torque monster.
 
383 & torque monster. Those aren’t words I’d put together in the same sentence
 
have the bb trans and torque converter , trans kit on way , have bb engine brackets and new rubber mounts on way . have bb cross member on hand , cleaned and painted chassis black .
Again, there were only 3 different crossmembers; slant six, V-8 and Hemi. If your car had a small block, a big block will go right back in with the right motor mounts. No need to change crossmember.
 
The 383 is a good motor. That does not make it a torque monster.

To the OP, you should pull the motor down and inspect everything. At least pull the heads and measure the CD. There aren’t many good piston options and knowing what you have and how to make the most of it will center around the pistons.
 
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