PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
Well, I have a slightly different perspective on this. Unless the engine is running really hot, if you hear any "ping" you need to reduce your total timing. Your total timing = initial timing + mechanical advance (inside distributor) since you're not running any vacuum advance. You "could" get away with this amount of total timing with race gas, but 93-octane is just about the highest you can find for "pump gas"
So, my suggestion is to reduce the initial timing a little bit more & see how it runs (maybe another 2-degrees, but AT LEAST 1-degree). If that works, run it.
If the engine becomes very "lazy" and doesn't seem like it runs as well, then you'll have to increase your initial timing back to where it was & limit your mechanical advance (inside the distributor). Depending upon the type of distributor you have, you can either adjust the limiting screws, install a limiting plate or "weld & file" the advance slots. Again, your goal is to eliminate "ping".
After ALL that is done, THEN you can start to play around with different springs/weights inside the distributor if you like.
HOPE THIS HELPS!
So, my suggestion is to reduce the initial timing a little bit more & see how it runs (maybe another 2-degrees, but AT LEAST 1-degree). If that works, run it.
If the engine becomes very "lazy" and doesn't seem like it runs as well, then you'll have to increase your initial timing back to where it was & limit your mechanical advance (inside the distributor). Depending upon the type of distributor you have, you can either adjust the limiting screws, install a limiting plate or "weld & file" the advance slots. Again, your goal is to eliminate "ping".
After ALL that is done, THEN you can start to play around with different springs/weights inside the distributor if you like.
HOPE THIS HELPS!