• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

440 mopar rods

340runner

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:19 PM
Joined
Sep 2, 2024
Messages
135
Reaction score
118
Location
Naperville, Illinois
So, with my new advent of the desire to fit a big block mopar, and realizing that it would solve some of my gearing issues with torque, I'm looking at a pretty barebones setup but that'll be stout from a 440
Also, i guess the best way to get stuff done effectively is to plan ahead, want to be around 500-600NA hp and similar torque with ability to add another 100-125 from bottle

Looking at a motorhome 440, from 1975-77
What heads come on the motorhome 440s? I've heard they are weird, and can't be worked through as much due to having extra water jacket passages

Crank since they don't come with steel in that yr is going to be a sourced OEM steel crank

Are the stock rods capable of 550NA hp rods, maybe with a 100 shot in the future? Upgraded rod bolts of course, not looking for much rpm, 6-6.5k max
Aftermarket pistons unsure of the CR needed but probably going to be around 10.5-11.0
Is this realistic on good tune and 93 + octane booster, octanium? Also will hyperectuic or however you spell it hold to the power?

Cam is going to be hydraulic flat, going to consult with hughes when the time comes for something that fits to my build.

Heads is either going to be the stock motorhome heads with some work done to them if it'll stay to my desired power figures, or 906 heads or speedmaster(i know it's Chinese but read above budget)
Intake is probably going to either be a eddy variety, whatever is better suited or the speedmaster, cause if I get the heads I'm getting the top end power pack
Carb, do you think a 750cfm holley double pumper is small, big or just right for this build?
Headers is going to be something pretty budget

Is this realistic for my power level I want? What would you say this combo makes honestly? What more could you do to push it to where I want to be?
I honestly just don't want to do all the work to build it, drop the coin, just to have something that's slower than I had before
 
Are the stock rods capable of 550NA hp rods, maybe with a 100 shot in the future? Upgraded rod bolts of course, not looking for much rpm, 6-6.5k max
Back in the day I made about around 530 hp going through the traps up to 6800 rpm. Lots of runs. Heavy domed piston around 11:1. Never had a failure.

Would never do that today. Aftermarket rods are just too good and cheap. Even my cheap 440 build with ported 906 heads got new rods. Got them from Todd Marsh.

 
Back in the day I made about around 530 hp going through the traps up to 6800 rpm. Lots of runs. Heavy domed piston around 11:1. Never had a failure.

Would never do that today. Aftermarket rods are just too good and cheap. Even my cheap 440 build with ported 906 heads got new rods. Got them from Todd Marsh.

[/URL]
How did that cheap 440 build turn out? Do the 906 flow well? Did you port them yourselves, or get them ported?
 
How did that cheap 440 build turn out? Do the 906 flow well? Did you port them yourselves, or get them ported?
So no idea on cost. I originally built it in the early 90's and then toned it down for the street car. My ported 906's (ported myself) - had no idea what I was doing back then. In max race trim that motor was high 12:1 compression and went 10.92 @ 123 mph. Probably 3200 - 3300 lbs. When I detuned it we found the crank was cracked so we had to replace it but it never broke. Put a hydraulic roller cam in it then pulled it out of the street car and put the original 383 in it. It's sitting there in the shop staring at me........ Had high dollar Batten ported 906 heads on it for a long time and it was actually slightly slower than with my ported heads, but the compression was lower.
 
The never ending dream thread with 1 million different computations and budgets and ideas and workarounds to make maximum hp with least resistance and issues all while retaining every level of highest comparative performance against newest renderings of automotive engineering marvels and creations. Love it! I was there too not so long ago.


Put all your money in a lump and lets figure out a realistic goal. You don't know what 600hp takes. Or even 500 which is an entirely different animal again.
 
So no idea on cost. I originally built it in the early 90's and then toned it down for the street car. My ported 906's (ported myself) - had no idea what I was doing back then. In max race trim that motor was high 12:1 compression and went 10.92 @ 123 mph. Probably 3200 - 3300 lbs. When I detuned it we found the crank was cracked so we had to replace it but it never broke. Put a hydraulic roller cam in it then pulled it out of the street car and put the original 383 in it. It's sitting there in the shop staring at me........ Had high dollar Batten ported 906 heads on it for a long time and it was actually slightly slower than with my ported heads, but the compression was lower.
Eh, never ported heads before, I mean there is always a first time but I'm not trying to go through 5 sets before I get a good set. Not to mention I don't have a bench to test flow. If I do any work, it's either cleaning the casting up ala Uncle tony or taking it to a shop. With that cost in mind, would the alu heads be a better choice?
 
The never ending dream thread with 1 million different computations and budgets and ideas and workarounds to make maximum hp with least resistance and issues all while retaining every level of highest comparative performance against newest renderings of automotive engineering marvels and creations. Love it! I was there too not so long ago.


Put all your money in a lump and lets figure out a realistic goal. You don't know what 600hp takes. Or even 500 which is an entirely different animal again.
Realistic, I want to be around 5k, give or take another grand or grand .5. I can also if it needs more do the work in stages or save up more. If my stocks in tesla and Nvidia go up some more I might have a Lil more to drop on it.
Where could I start for this, and am I completely unrealistic for the price point?
 
Eh, never ported heads before, I mean there is always a first time but I'm not trying to go through 5 sets before I get a good set. Not to mention I don't have a bench to test flow. If I do any work, it's either cleaning the casting up ala Uncle tony or taking it to a shop. With that cost in mind, would the alu heads be a better choice?
There use to be (maybe still is) a template set for porting mopar BB heads. Not sure how big a performance bump they would give. Maybe some of the FBBO guru's have experience with them.
 
Realistic, I want to be around 5k, give or take another grand or grand .5. I can also if it needs more do the work in stages or save up more. If my stocks in tesla and Nvidia go up some more I might have a Lil more to drop on it.
Where could I start for this, and am I completely unrealistic for the price point?
5K is not going to do it. Take the time to itemize all the parts. Then figure what a shop is going to charge for the block work. By the time you add it up 10k is more realistic. You might ditch the motor home and look for a decent 67-72 440 from a car.
 
I have no idea anymore. My last build a couple years ago was $30k but it makes 1060 hp.
The current one in my car was maybe 10? About a 700+ 440, but no machining, just old well used refurbished stuff . Knowing where the fancy parts are. Not a street motor whatsoever
 
I'm still old school. I would not hesitate to still use oem heads but that's because I can do it all myself. I would do some porting, 3 angle valve job (with stones) and can grind the valves or replace them if necessary. It would make reasonable power for a street cat. But not everyone can do this work themselves and it can be costly to pay someone so aluminum heads win out. Plus my expensive Batten 906 heads sit on the shelf with several large cracks.
 
5 grand is not near enough to put a BB in place . And / or make one with that power.
 
5 grand is not near enough to put a BB in place . And / or make one with that power.
What would you say is a better number for a build? I'm trying to stretch my dollar a lot more via reusing a lot of stock parts, which at my power level shouldn't be the worst. I think where I'm honestly going to pay out the *** is machine shop work
To try avoid this as much as possible, would you rather get a assembled engine that's sat and roll the dice on whether your rods and pistons and heads aren't complete junk, for the possibility that everything hasn't completely rusted out since it's sat in a somewhat enclosed system or would you get a bare block with some other rotating assembly parts with knowing you're making a big trip to the machine shop
 
What would you say is a better number for a build? I'm trying to stretch my dollar a lot more via reusing a lot of stock parts, which at my power level shouldn't be the worst. I think where I'm honestly going to pay out the *** is machine shop work
To try avoid this as much as possible, would you rather get a assembled engine that's sat and roll the dice on whether your rods and pistons and heads aren't complete junk, for the possibility that everything hasn't completely rusted out since it's sat in a somewhat enclosed system or would you get a bare block with some other rotating assembly parts with knowing you're making a big trip to the machine shop
Stretch the dollar any way you want and you are at 10k. What car do you have? Small block? If so then you will need all the BB items. Mounts, transmission,all the pulleys and brackets and the list goes on. Thats why I suggested finding a car with a 440 or one recently pulled that might have the majority of the small external parts. The small stuff is what adds up.
 
Stretch the dollar any way you want and you are at 10k. What car do you have? Small block? If so then you will need all the BB items. Mounts, transmission,all the pulleys and brackets and the list goes on. Thats why I suggested finding a car with a 440 or one recently pulled that might have the majority of the small external parts. The small stuff is what adds up.
It's a small block 71, so same mounts, and the trans just needs a bellhousing and I can reuse clutch and flywheel.
You're right on the brackets and pulleys, I'm not too far bad on it compared because the only thing power i have is power steering and I can get the bracket for the BB pretty cheaply.
I already have a champion radiator that works, and already have a MSD box too
It should be one of the more easier swaps out there hopefully
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top