440 start-up with flat hydraulic lifters

[Moms68]

Admittedly it has been many moons since I started a fresh engine to break in non-roller lifters. The more articles I read and watch videos, the more I'm worried I may screw this up. This is a mild performance build 440 with a comp cams cam and Johnson lifters. All I have seen state that you get one shot at starting the engine initially, and keep it running at 2000 rpms for 30 minutes.

Any advice from the FBBO engine guys on setting the initial timing and any other hints are appreciated. I do have the oil pump priming tool and plan on checking the oil pump before the engine is installed.

I do not have a run stand so I'll have to install the engine to start it.

 

[DanielSlocum]

If you make sure that all 16 lifters are rotating when cranking with the starter motor then you should be fine assuming there is no soft metal involved.
If the parts are soft it wont matter what you do. Replace any lifters that do not rotate and/or the camshaft before ever firing the engine. Good luck.

 

[4speed68rt]

Use break in oil. I have been using the Lucas 20w 50. It has the highest amount of zinc. Take your time and make sure that everything is ready and go for it. Get the timing close and have the timing light hooked up for adjustment when you start it up.

 

[turbine68rt]

I've used VR-1 for break-in, changed oil and filter after that, drove it for 500 miles changed both again, then regular intervals after that. I set timing for a few degrees advance just to get it started, once its set at 2k I adjust it for about 30° advance for break-in. Keep checking oil pressure and temp.

 

[4speed68rt]

The last one that I used VR-1 for break in went flat within 10 minutes. I have done two since then, (one being the rebuild of the one that went flat), with the Lucas Break in oil and both broke in without a problem. Cheap, and easy insurance. I use VR-1 in all of my flat tappet engines, after break in. Do everything that you can to prevent it from going flat, because it sucks when it happens.
That was the first time that it happened to me.

 

[oldbee]

AND, don’t let the better half watch the op gauge!!! I got lucky, no pressure got caught in time. I trust her more now.

 

[turbine68rt]

The last one that I used VR-1 for break in went flat within 10 minutes. I have done two since then, (one being the rebuild of the one that went flat), with the Lucas Break in oil and both broke in without a problem. Cheap, and easy insurance. I use VR-1 in all of my flat tappet engines, after break in. Do everything that you can to prevent it from going flat, because it sucks when it happens.
That was the first time that it happened to me.

With 1100-1300 ppm of zinc in VR-1 I've never had a problem, since break-in 7 years ago still going strong.

 

[Don Frelier]

When I started my Plymouth which had not run for 4 years or more when I bought it here's what I did:
1. I primed the oil system with a priming tool.
2. With no plugs in it I bumped it to find compression on #1.
3. Installed the distributor at 0 degrees.
4. Cranked it over using the starter motor still no plugs and timed it to 10 degrees Before top dead center. ( This also fills the carb bowls)
5. Installed plugs.
6. I gave it 3 shots from the accelerator pump and set the choke wait about 30 seconds.
7. It Started immediately like 1 revolution.

 

[Geoff 2]

New engines are tight, & can get hot veeeeeeeery quickly. To reduce that possibilty, adjust initial timing to 15-20* BTDC. The extra timing will help the engine run cooler.
Good luck with the lifters....I would have used re-faced factory lifters.

 

[Moms68]

New engines are tight, & can get hot veeeeeeeery quickly. To reduce that possibilty, adjust initial timing to 15-20* BTDC. The extra timing will help the engine run cooler.
Good luck with the lifters....I would have used re-faced factory lifters.

Factory re-faced? Please elaborate.

 

[eldubb440]

i keep a garden hose handy to cool the radiator if necessary....... verify zero leaks before start up.......... have a functioning temp and oil gauge

 

[dvw]

I agree on lots of timing. There is no load so detonation won't be an issue. Keeps the exhaust cooler. Especially if you have coated headers. Make sure the carb is full of fuel. If it doesn't have an electric pump? Fill the bowl(s) thru the vent with a squirt bottle. Make sure #1 rotor posistion is on compression. Verify firing order is correct. Vary the speed between 2000-3000. I run water only. That way if you do have a coolant leak it's less of a mess. Have a good fan in front of the radiator. With a full fuel bowl and proper timing it should start like its been run before.
Doug

 

[1967coronet]

All good advice,
make sure to have plenty of break in lube on the cam and lifters.
Use a known good carb so you are not fighting it at fire up.
Once it runs a few minutes start bumping the rpms up and down a little a few times.
Have a fan blowing at the radiator.
Like DVW said.

 

[wedgie]

The flat tappet cam issues of the last few years must be due to metallurgy. Chineseum does not have the same properties as old lifter steel.

 

[GTXDAN]

I just started the .030 over 440, Edelbrock Performer cam and headers in my GTX on Wed. for first time. Used Lucas break in oil with no issues. Electric fuel pump and HEI converted Mopar dizzy. It scared me it started so fast and ran great. I had parked the dizzy at 10* before TD and it fired off instantly. The open headers was what got me. Another one to be back on the road soon.

 

[Geoff 2]

Moms68,
Todays FT lifters are a crap shoot.......
If you are not a gambler like me, you will get some factory lifters & have the base [ the part that contacts the lobe ] re-faced. The re-facing will put the correct convex facing on the lifter so that it spins in it's bore. Any lifter made before 1995 would also be ok to use.

 

[6PKRTSE]

All good tips as mentioned already. Assuming you have plenty of assembly lube on everything during assembly. Use a good break in oil additive. On most anything above stock rebuild from mild to wild hyd f.t. cams engines. I always break them in on the outer springs. Then after break in I add the inner/damper springs.
These days it's also wise to pay for the extra nitride heat treat process to the hyd f.t. cams.