470 low-deck build

[69 GTX]

And just a lap belt!

 

[Sweet5ltr]

We only live once right..

 

[Hemirunner]

And just a lap belt!

Yeah that's just unfathomable.... I Just finished a 25.3 chassis, have dual chutes, racing seats and harnesses, dual fire bottles, window net... And everything in between just to get a jacket and belong to the 200 mph club.

 

[Hemirunner]

We only live once right..

For sure but I'd like to live past 199 lol

 

[Sweet5ltr]

My guess is that if someone owns a vehicle that can run 200 MPH in a 1/2 mile, they're fairly serious and have the required safety equipment. At least, I would hope so.

Hellcat, 620-630 RWHP and around 125 MPH in the quarter. I'm guessing it would take well north of 1,000 RWHP to push any factory based vehicle into the 200 MPH zone in a 1/2-mile. If I can get it close to 150 MPH, that will be around 6,200 RPM (without) considering converter slippage/drag. I need to be able to spin it to 7,000 RPM. I know my Z06 Corvette, it would get a bit light on the nose at those speeds, may be better in a b-body with the additional weight.

Anyone ever built a belly pan for these cars?

 

[Hemirunner]

My guess is that if someone owns a vehicle that can run 200 MPH in a 1/2 mile, they're fairly serious and have the required safety equipment. At least, I would hope so.

Hellcat, 620-630 RWHP and around 125 MPH in the quarter. I'm guessing it would take well north of 1,000 RWHP to push any factory based vehicle into the 200 MPH zone in a 1/2-mile. If I can get it close to 150 MPH, that will be around 6,200 RPM (without) considering converter slippage/drag. I need to be able to spin it to 7,000 RPM. I know my Z06 Corvette, it would get a bit light on the nose at those speeds, may be better in a b-body with the additional weight.

Anyone ever built a belly pan for these cars?

My street car traps 140 mph in the quarter on the spray and is really quite stable at that speed. Stopping on a short shutdown is a little hairy. I don't think the belly pan will be needed at 150. My new build should trap near 170 in the quarter and hopefully 200+ in the 1/2 and full mile events. I will be building a small belly pan for it so I don't have to run an engine diaper. It has an alterktion style suspension with forward facing turbo headers, rack and no sway bar making the design much easier than a car with full exhaust, conventional suspension and those cumbersome torsion bars. You'll have your work cut out for you.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

My street car traps 140 mph in the quarter on the spray and is really quite stable at that speed. Stopping on a short shutdown is a little hairy. I don't think the belly pan will be needed at 150. My new build should trap near 170 in the quarter and hopefully 200+ in the 1/2 and full mile events. I will be building a small belly pan for it so I don't have to run an engine diaper. It has an alterktion style suspension with forward facing turbo headers, rack and no sway bar making the design much easier than a car with full exhaust, conventional suspension and those cumbersome torsion bars. You'll have your work cut out for you.

For sure, going to do minimal aero modifications this year, just enough to hopefully get it stable for extended periods at speed. Do you have a build thread?

 

[Hemirunner]

For sure, going to do minimal aero modifications this year, just enough to hopefully get it stable for extended periods at speed. Do you have a build thread?

For some reason I can't copy and paste the link but if you do a search for 'superbird' under my user name you'll find it.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Great, thank you Hemirunner.

Have my entire build purchased.

76' 400-470 (4.375" x 3.915" x 6.535" & 1.48" CH)
9.6:1 (-17 dome)
Holley 4781-850 DP
Mopar M1 4500 series w/ 2" 4150-4500 adapter
Edelbrock 84CC Performer RPM's light port work
Lunati 259/267* @ .050 --- .586/.606 lift. --- 110 LSA w/ 73100 springs
FTI 9" converter 4,800 stall speed.
3.55 gears to get me in the mid-150's @ 6,500-7,000 RPM in the 1/2 mile.

Should work well for the intended purpose, wanted torque a bit higher. Was highly considering the extra cubes with the 4.25" stroker combination, but felt the 3.915" stroke was better fit for my application.

Was looking hard at aftermarket main caps, didn't really feel they're worth upgrading at this level, but I'm not an expert. Went with ARP bolts and will re-use stock caps. Is this a mistake to believe this isn't the weak point in the block at this power level 550-600HP? I don't feel I should have any issues with detonation, especially considering I tune with a wideband.

 

[Hemirunner]

Great, thank you Hemirunner.

Have my entire build purchased.

76' 400-470 (4.375" x 3.95" x 6.535" & 1.48" CH)
9.6:1 (-17 dome)
Holley 4781-850 DP
Mopar M1 4500 series w/ 2" 4150-4500 adapter
Edelbrock 84CC Performer RPM's light port work
Lunati 259/267* @ .050 --- .586/.606 lift. --- 110 LSA w/ 73100 springs
FTI 9" converter 4,800 stall speed.
3.55 gears to get me in the mid-150's @ 6,500-7,000 RPM in the 1/2 mile.

Should work well for the intended purpose, wanted torque a bit higher. Was highly considering the extra cubes with the 4.25" stroker combination, but felt the 3.915" stroke was better fit for my application.

Was looking hard at aftermarket main caps, didn't really feel they're worth upgrading at this level, but I'm not an expert. Went with ARP bolts and will re-use stock caps. Is this a mistake to believe this isn't the weak point in the block at this power level 550-600HP? I don't feel I should have any issues with detonation, especially considering I tune with a wideband.

If the tune is good you won't have any issues. I'd bump the CR to at least 10.5 if I were building it unless you want to run 87 octane.

 

[dieseldazzle]

Great, thank you Hemirunner.

Have my entire build purchased.

76' 400-470 (4.375" x 3.95" x 6.535" & 1.48" CH)
9.6:1 (-17 dome)
Holley 4781-850 DP
Mopar M1 4500 series w/ 2" 4150-4500 adapter
Edelbrock 84CC Performer RPM's light port work
Lunati 259/267* @ .050 --- .586/.606 lift. --- 110 LSA w/ 73100 springs
FTI 9" converter 4,800 stall speed.
3.55 gears to get me in the mid-150's @ 6,500-7,000 RPM in the 1/2 mile.

Should work well for the intended purpose, wanted torque a bit higher. Was highly considering the extra cubes with the 4.25" stroker combination, but felt the 3.915" stroke was better fit for my application.

Was looking hard at aftermarket main caps, didn't really feel they're worth upgrading at this level, but I'm not an expert. Went with ARP bolts and will re-use stock caps. Is this a mistake to believe this isn't the weak point in the block at this power level 550-600HP? I don't feel I should have any issues with detonation, especially considering I tune with a wideband.

I'm not an expert but since I'm having the machine work done anyway and putting in main studs I went ahead and ran new caps on all 6 of my motors. One is a max effort 400 that I'm still working on. The others not so much.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

If the tune is good you won't have any issues. I'd bump the CR to at least 10.5 if I were building it unless you want to run 87 octane.

I wanted to have the choice to run lower octane for long drives where power really doesn't matter (power tour/cruisin the coast), it looks like I'm losing 2-3% HP and some low-end torque by running very conservative. I know there are members who mention running fairly high static CR's on pump fuel N/A, but prolonged effects of detonation are what caused the damage to my #4 piston in the 440. I was fine until I started running turbo ground camshafts (low-duration / wide LSA) which brought my dynamic CR up a bit (too high for pump fuel with boost, even with the A2W intercooler). Trying to stay conservative now as these older engines obviously have non-adaptive timing/fuel control.

Dynamic compression ratio is @ 7.0:1. Should be 87-octane friendly. 10.7:1 was my other alternative from 440source, dynamic would have been 7.9:1; somewhat near the limit of 91/93-pump fuel.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I'm not an expert but since I'm having the machine work done anyway and putting in main studs I went ahead and ran new caps on all 6 of my motors. One is a max effort 400 that I'm still working on. The others not so much.

It's a great insurance policy, especially if you needed the additional machine work already with studs. I'm hoping by keeping detonation to a minimum, the caps will remain stress free and live a happy-long life.

 

[cudadoug]

If it were me, I'd have a cam in the mid to high 230's with at least 110 centers. Maybe even 112. Also a Performer RPM intake.

My carb would be chosen with the strongest signal vs. CFM.

 

[496BEE]

Looks good, personally I would give it alittle more carb, compression, and gear. Alittle less cam & converter. Seems like it's not just a street & drag car (which is mainly what I know), so for road courses or 1/2 mile racing you might be spot on

 

[496BEE]

Also I know what you mean with the converter. My dart had a 4k precision converter that was so loose the car wouldn't move until Rpm's came up, now my charger has a 4500 ptc that I don't even notice on the street. It's all how they build them

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I've made some progress on the build. Engine has been on hold for a few months.

Headers are now wrapped with the newer Titanium wrap from DEI. 2" x 100' for each longtube header, only 6-8' leftover.
New MSD Distributor, MSD Coil, with MSD wires. New Year One engine harness (built for updated electrical/charging system). Rewiring electrical system with new fuse panel. Measuring pushrods, machine shop stated 8.450", measuring ourselves with adjustable pushrod, requires 8.550" overall length; so i'll be ordering those this week from Manton or Smith Bros.

We also hand ported the heads and intake manifold.

Most excited for a very unique purchase, 'Boom Tube' exhaust system off of a stock car. Single side-exit with x-pipe.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Oval-Boom-Exhaust-Tubes-3-5-Inlet-NASCAR-Racing-Hot-Rods/272783722916?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

 

[HT413]

Most excited for a very unique purchase, 'Boom Tube' exhaust system off of a stock car. Single side-exit with x-pipe.

Huh, ya know, I might just go that direction myself. Post some stuff on the install if you have a chance.

 

[Hemirunner]

Measuring pushrods, machine shop stated 8.450", measuring ourselves with adjustable pushrod, requires 8.550" overall length; so i'll be ordering those this week from Manton or Smith Bros.

If that's a ball and cup style, that's probably the difference between "effective length" (how the shop measured) and overall length (how you measured). Make sure you tell Smith Brothers how you measured.

 

[not so famous bob]

Huh, ya know, I might just go that direction myself. Post some stuff on the install if you have a chance.

I have a home built exhaust system that doesn't drone and almost totally free flow, isn`t all that loud. But have been watching the boom tube sells on ebay. Too high for me so far. I was thinking of separating them and running out each side in front of the rear wheels. I watched the posted pics sale at that hi price.