470 low-deck build

[Sweet5ltr]

If that's a ball and cup style, that's probably the difference between "effective length" (how the shop measured) and overall length (how you measured). Make sure you tell Smith Brothers how you measured.

Pretty positive the shop just measured with a ball/ball pushrod which explains the variance (effective length); shop mainly works with OE builds. Yes, I understood the difference, all the shop wrote was "8.45" length. Ordering pushrods on Monday morning.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

I have a home built exhaust system that doesn't drone and almost totally free flow, isn`t all that loud. But have been watching the boom tube sells on ebay. Too high for me so far. I was thinking of separating them and running out each side in front of the rear wheels. I watched the posted pics sale at that hi price.

Boom tubes (stock car exhaust) is a 3.5" system. There is nothing on the market that comes close for $300 shipped with "mufflers" and x-pipe. Very professional setup, heavy wall tubing, fantastic welds. . . Dr. Gas wants $130 per tip. Easy choice for me.

 

[HT413]

Boom tubes (stock car exhaust) is a 3.5" system. There is nothing on the market that comes close for $300 shipped with "mufflers" and x-pipe. Very professional setup, heavy wall tubing, fantastic welds. . . Dr. Gas wants $130 per tip. Easy choice for me.

Yeah I was looking at that - just noticed it comes right off the headers - does it come out at the passenger door or behind it?

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Exits right before the passenger rear tire on my setup, you can position it wherever you would like. Now, as for coming off the collectors, the exhaust shop will need to run a few feet of 3-3.5" tubing to meet up with where it will be located on a street car. I ran simple reducers to mate the 3.5-3" sections; my collectors are 3". Local exhaust shop can't bend 3.5". It will be very loud, which is perfect for this sort of car. I'm doing the old racer trick and will utilize valve springs as spacers to provide flex to the system, as these have welded mounting brackets; which one is positioned perfectly for my subframe connector.

 

[HT413]

Exits right before the passenger rear tire on my setup, you can position it wherever you would like. Now, as for coming off the collectors, the exhaust shop will need to run a few feet of 3-3.5" tubing to meet up with where it will be located on a street car. I ran simple reducers to mate the 3.5-3" sections; my collectors are 3". Local exhaust shop can't bend 3.5". It will be very loud, which is perfect for this sort of car.

Ah, gotcha, now that makes sense. I've watched a few videos on their website. The sound is bad ***.

 

[not so famous bob]

Boom tubes (stock car exhaust) is a 3.5" system. There is nothing on the market that comes close for $300 shipped with "mufflers" and x-pipe. Very professional setup, heavy wall tubing, fantastic welds. . . Dr. Gas wants $130 per tip. Easy choice for me.

still as used set on ebay . Would have to be separated for dual side use.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

still as used set on ebay . Would have to be separated for dual side use.

You can purchase just the boom tube mufflers for $200 shipped, simply unbolt them and run them on each side of the car. I wanted the x-pipe as well (price out an oval x-pipe from anywhere else ). Honestly, the system aligns perfectly as is. It is extremely heavy. We weren't expecting that when it arrived. It looks physically brand new, which was even more surprising, but was obviously used.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

You can purchase just the boom tube mufflers for $200 shipped, simply unbolt them and run them on each side of the car. I wanted the x-pipe as well (price out an oval x-pipe from anywhere else ). Honestly, the system aligns perfectly as is. It is extremely heavy. We weren't expecting that when it arrived. It looks physically brand new, which was even more surprising, but was obviously used.

best audio of boom tubes You really can't tell just how aggressive the sound levels are from the videos above.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Ordered one pushrod to test from Steward Performance in Edgewater, FL. Two week wait time for primary set to have them heat treated. Rewiring car now, re-spraying engine bay.

Now, as far as allowing the paint to cure with a few heat cycles on the block. Anyone else use a heat gun/portable heater? Engines first run will be breaking in the camshaft. Don't want all the fresh paint to flake right off the block within 50-miles. Did all the proper prep work, block was acid dipped.

 

[HT413]

Ordered one pushrod to test from Steward Performance in Edgewater, FL. Two week wait time for primary set to have them heat treated. Rewiring car now, re-spraying engine bay.

Now, as far as allowing the paint to cure with a few heat cycles on the block. Anyone else use a heat gun/portable heater? Engines first run will be breaking in the camshaft. Don't want all the fresh paint to flake right off the block within 50-miles. Did all the proper prep work, block was acid dipped.

Not sure it'll be an issue. I don't have a ton of experience but the 2 x I broke a motor in the paint I used was unaffected. Block was cleaned and primed using self-etch primer and sprayed with duplicolor HEMI orange engine paint, nothing special.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Not sure it'll be an issue. I don't have a ton of experience but the 2 x I broke a motor in the paint I used was unaffected. Block was cleaned and primed using self-etch primer and sprayed with duplicolor HEMI orange engine paint, nothing special.

Great, read quite a bit online and was looking over the typical break-in (heat cycles) to cure header paint.

Just figured out my new wiring harness from Year One doesn't include the voltage regulator wiring. I ordered the upgraded electrical/alt version, which I now know, doesn't include the factory harness terminals for the regulator. So, alt upgrade is now in order to a Denso.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Okay, ordered all my Denso alternator swap components. AR Engineering alternator brackets, pigtail harness, and refurbished Bosch AL218X alternator.

Pushrod (single to check) from Steward Performance was perfect. 2-threads showing with .010 cold lash. Built like an absolute tank, amazing quality, arrived in two days. Ordered the complete set today.

Calculator says DCR of 7.26. 9.48:1 static. Should run on 87 octane?

4.375 bore
3.915 stroke
4.5" gasket bore
.040" compressed thickness
-17cc dish
.007" below deck
ABDC 70.5* (after adding 15* to .050 #)

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Hotchkis torsion bars and shocks on the way; 20% sale. Wiring is 99% done. Just finishing up a few more projects on it, new alternator and bracket setup looks great. Will grab a few pictures when the engine is back in the car.

 

[66Satellite47]

We only live once right..

FYI., if you roof a car, you may have a different opinion.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

FYI., if you roof a car, you may have a different opinion.

- sarcasm - Forget to drink your coffee this morning?

 

[66Satellite47]

- sarcasm - Forget to drink your coffee this morning?

Yes, sarcasm. However more than a lap belt is needed for a fast car. If you ever crashed a car you know the value of a good harness.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Yes, sarcasm. However more than a lap belt is needed for a fast car. If you ever crashed a car you know the value of a good harness.

My father and I were in a car accident in this 69' when a driver ran a redlight when I was 7 years old; brand new Chevrolet Impala. One mile prior to the accident he had me put on my seat belt, we hit the car running around 45-50 MPH. Wouldn't be here otherwise. No one in this thread needs a reminder of the value of proper safety equipment.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Fired the brand new engine up last night and broke-in the camshaft always a 'gut busting' moment. After re-wiring nearly the entire car to a true fuse panel, absolutely no issues on the electrical side. Now it's on to tuning, going to get the car to idle well (as best we can without the wideband) until my father gets a chance to take it to the exhaust shop down the street to install the 02-bung (which should be tomorrow hopefully).

 

[1967coronet440]

Fired the brand new engine up last night and broke-in the camshaft always a 'gut busting' moment. After re-wiring nearly the entire car to a true fuse panel, absolutely no issues on the electrical side. Now it's on to tuning, going to get the car to idle well (as best we can without the wideband) until my father gets a chance to take it to the exhaust shop down the street to install the 02-bung (which should be tomorrow hopefully).

Did you guys take a video?

 

[Sweet5ltr]

Did you guys take a video?

No video, maybe we can do like everyone else and film a 'first start' after it's tuned and cranks on the first starter revolution .

Bare bones. No timing curve. No carb tuning. Now, thrown a curve in the MSD 6AL-2, 14* retard @ 0-1,000 RPM (18-20* timing) & Progressively all-in @ 2,500 RPM (32-34* timing). Haven't ran it yet with the curve.

Update* ran the engine for another 15-minutes today to complete break-in (30 minutes total). No leaks or issues -yet-. Hopefully it stays that way. Running 93-octane until I can get some sort of runtime on the engine and get the tune somewhat close with the wide band. Probably will just take it to the chassis dyno in December or January.