$500- 68 charger

[daytona kid]

Thnx guys.. It really help to get other's input when your undecided. So now I have decided, fer sher!, I thinkk? I'll continue to strip the 383 till it's just bare block, and preserve it for future buyer of the car incase they want the original #s motor. And I'll go get the $100- 400 block and get it checked. If good, proceed with building it to a 512 stroker., it will probably be a slow motor build but hopefully not a slow motor, lol. No sense wasting time and money on a motor I don't want in the final product.

 

[conv67bdere]

Sounds like a great plan there Daytona Kid ( I thinkk? ) . . . LMAO . . .

From what I've read, I think you've made the right decision ! ! ! GO for it ! ! !

 

[Ron 73]

I agree bud! Go for it, that 400 may take a bit longer but look what you have at the end! Good decision and please keep us with the details, i have a 400 and i have a note pad with your name on it for future reference, near future i like to think but im watching!

 

[69 GTX]

I'm kinda in the same boat as you Kid right now. My problem is I'm itchin to get behind the wheel. So I'm planning on freshining up the old 440 I have had in both of my previous RR's. A little sentimental touch there. To get the GTX on the road for the first year. Then I can enjoy the car and take my time and build my top end to instal the following year. If your like me switching motors is a snap compared to the rest of the project!

 

[daytona kid]

Yep.. I'm itchin to get rollin myself but I'm goin to have to wait since the 383 would need so much. Still haven't got it all the way apart, should have it stripped tonight or tomorrow if I can get the cam out..

 

[cdr]

i just got all my parts for my 512,now off to the machine shop next week.
i think you have made the right choice.

 

[daytona kid]

i just got all my parts for my 512,now off to the machine shop next week.
i think you have made the right choice.

Will you plz share more info on your parts Charlie? Cause I know you found the "best bang for ur buck" deal! And I'll probably be copycat-ing you on this 512 project.

 

[daytona kid]

I've got the 383 stripped almost all the way down, but I worry if the cam and lifters are going to come out. They were right under that 30 year field mouse nest and that caused a good amount of rust on them. I'll try to get them tomorrow. Everything seems to look like this was a healthy stock motor when the car was parked. I haven't seen anything that was worn bad or broken.

 

[a68postcar]

go kid go. black for me please.

 

[69 GTX]

Kroil oil works great for loosening froozen stuff!

 

[daytona kid]

Could someone explain to me how to figure out if this 383 is the #s matching original for my car? I cannot find the #s that I thought I needed to for checking it.

 

[daytona kid]

Could someone explain to me how to figure out if this 383 is the #s matching original for my car? I cannot find the #s that I thought I needed to for checking it.

Anyone?

 

[conv67bdere]

Could someone explain to me how to figure out if this 383 is the #s matching original for my car? I cannot find the #s that I thought I needed to for checking it.

Sorry Daytona Kid . . . My car was engine-less when I got it so I know it won't match and I don't know where to check . . . or I would be happy to help ! !

I'm sure SOMEONE on this site can help . . .

 

[69 GTX]

Yeah same here.

 

[showard]

I wish that I could help you with the #s matching. I am still learning also. I would think that if the year and clock letters on the side of your block closely match the year and date of your car build that there is a good chance that it would be the original.

 

[daytona kid]

I think I've just about figured it out..
This site helped me.> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html
My motor has a casting date of 10-24-67 and an assembly date stamp of 11-22.. So since I can't find the matching last 8 vin #s stamp and there is no identification pad, that is because, according to that site, motors cast and assembled before 1-1-68 had no id pad or matching last 8 vin #s stamp. So apparently there is no absolute way to connect my motor to my car. But with all that said I'm 99% sure it's the motor that came in the car. If I'm not deducing all this correctly plz let me know. Further discussion, info, opinions, etc., on this will be welcome.

 

[Propwash]

I think I've just about figured it out..
This site helped me.> http://www.moparts.org/Tech/Archive/motor/36.html
My motor has a casting date of 10-24-67 and an assembly date stamp of 11-22.. So since I can't find the matching last 8 vin #s stamp and there is no identification pad, that is because, according to that site, motors cast and assembled before 1-1-68 had no id pad or matching last 8 vin #s stamp. So apparently there is no absolute way to connect my motor to my car. But with all that said I'm 99% sure it's the motor that came in the car. If I'm not deducing all this correctly plz let me know. Further discussion, info, opinions, etc., on this will be welcome.

Exactly Amigo! 1969 cars, it's easy sailing matching the number's, but 1968 cars is Iffy, if even possible at all. Some plants did start stamping on 1968 models, some didn't...but that's when they started rolling out with stamping them. 1968 and prior cars....folks go by the build dates of the cars and engine to come up with a common deduction if it's the original motor or not. On those car's, folk's saying "numbers matching" actually wouldn't be correct. It would more like be "period correct". Can't match numbers if there isn't any there.

 

[Ron 73]

Numbers matching would be cool for all of us, in my case its just period correct and thats if the guy didn't lie to me lol... Im getting used to that stuff, at least he isint a member here, now that would hurt lol!

 

[daytona kid]

Exactly Amigo! 1969 cars, it's easy sailing matching the number's, but 1968 cars is Iffy, if even possible at all. Some plants did start stamping on 1968 models, some didn't...but that's when they started rolling out with stamping them. 1968 and prior cars....folks go by the build dates of the cars and engine to come up with a common deduction if it's the original motor or not. On those car's, folk's saying "numbers matching" actually wouldn't be correct. It would more like be "period correct". Can't match numbers if there isn't any there.

Yep, thats what I was thinking. I may check the build date on the car and the assembly date stamp on the motor. If they are close that would be proof enough for me and I would hope for anyone buying my car, in the far future., and wants the original motor with it.
And I did finish stripping it to bare block. I may vat it, clean it, lube it and bag it for storage.

 

[747mopar]

I remember when the troopers asked me for the trans and motor ID #s, I thought my *** was had because there was no IDs on either one. Turns out missing #s was very common with the Mopars seeing how a person literally stood there and stamped each one by hand so they gave me the green light. Good choice on the 512, When I built my motor I knew everything I needed well in advance and scored as much as possible off of Ebay, scratch and dent sales, swap meats or wherever I could in an effort to save a few while I saved up the money. Good luck