Superfreak
Well-Known Member
Yep, different intakes.
$500- 68 charger
- Thread starter daytona kid
- Start date
I think if you ordered a B intake you could use it with spacers on the 440. But you are right on being different intakes. Are you going to go clear through the 440? New pistons, ect. What gears do you have in now?
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
They make spacers for that? The extent of the 440 rebuild may depend on how healthy or worn it is and how healthy my finances are/will be. I'm starting to think if the 440 is ok like it is then I can just clean it up, not even take the heads off (yet anyway), buy a few needed things for it and try it as is (no racing) till I get the 400/stroker built. I just did a compression check on it, sorta. Since I have no way to spin it fast I just used a pull bar and spun it with arm power. All cylinders were close, wet and dry. I also hooked my shop air (set on 40psi) to each and held pressure on the pull bar on each jug's compression stroke, they all felt stout. I'll pull the pan off next to check some of the bearings. Anyone no another way to test compression with no starter?
Last edited:
- Local time
- 3:51 PM
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 18,687
- Reaction score
- 37,488
- Location
- Surrey, B.C. Canada
They make spacers for all sorts of things. You can get adapter spacers to use B or RB intakes on Buick 455 engines if you want, which many do since there are far fewer Buick performance intakes. Just as long as you're prepared for an additional area of potential leaks and more work if the manifolds are ported.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Rear-end gears? 4.56 ,, why?
That'll be pretty steep for the street, may be around 3300 @ 55
Use a leak down set. Basically a regulator set at 100 psi. and another gauge to measure out pressure. This will give you the % of leakdown. Check at TDC
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Yea Thnx, I've been researching that a little and thinking about trying it. So I'll put the 100psi going to the cylinder but have another gauge showing the psi in the cyl which will be lower. What % drop should I be looking/hoping for, or is acceptable? I'm pretty sure I'll have to lock the engine from spinning somehow at tdc because when I put the 40psi to it the other day it was forcing the piston down hard against me and the pull bar.
Last edited:
If you get the cylinder at top dead center it should stay. The regulator gauge should say 100 psi the second gauge will read the air pressure after the regulator (the pressure in the line to cyl.). I would think you'd want 85% and up, hopefully 90% or better. Last thing I did was my old race bike and it had 97%. With the engine out you can also listen to see if it's going past the valves.
cdr
Well-Known Member
I would take it apart & do a Dirty White Boy rebuild
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
That's a possibility.. Gotta save all my cash for the painter now tho..
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
I rigged up a leak down set-up and I think it came out pretty good. The cylinders were all close between 94- 96%. May take the pan off next and see how things look in there.
I'd say run it! Maybe score a old DC head template kit and do some DIY porting, port matching, and run it. Could always mill the heads some to raise the compression. Could be a cheap build.
cdr
Well-Known Member
nylon timing gear coming apart & the valve stem seals crumbling & plugging the oil pick up screen is a common problem on these old mopars.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Thnx, I'll definitely check those. I'll have a lot of time to tinker with this motor while waiting on the painter. I won't try to run it as is if there is a chance of tearing it up because something is wore out.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
What's a DC head?
Force Fed Mopar
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 6:51 PM
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2011
- Messages
- 205
- Reaction score
- 127
- Location
- Spartanburg/Greenville area, SC
DC = Direct Connection, was renamed Mopar Performance. They sold template kits for diy head porting.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Ok, shoulda known that.. Duh
I don't know if I still have mine or not, if I stumble across it I'll let you know.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Thnx.. Still not sure what all I'll do with this motor as far as refurbing. Not really thinking about performance/hard running unless I go thru it. I'm thinking now it may be best to put all the performance into the 400/512., after I build or leave the 440 fairly stock for a small amount of street cruising use only, and possibly some taller gears. I think this 72 440 may have the 8.2 pistons in it. May have to pull a head to find out. If that is the case it makes me lean more to a rebuild. It also looks like if it had any valve guide seals they're gone like cdr said, and the spark plugs and exhaust ports are pretty carboned up and wet. Were there seals on both intake and exhaust guides? I guess I could replace those if I decide to try to run it mostly as is. I can't really see putting much if any money in the stock heads if they need anything more than seals. How much is a set of those 270 heads?
Last edited:
Similar threads
