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512 builds.. post em if you got em!

PRHeads said:
10-10.5cr, TF240 heads, find a used M1 single plane intake, 1-7/8” headers, 1.450x1.750 carb, then when you've gotten all that stuff nailed down, along with the trans/rear gear/tire diameter(to determine cruise rpm), then you get the cam.

If the cruise rpm is quite low, then I’d use an RPM intake instead of the M1.
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What's a 1.450x1.750 carb?
 
BSB67 said:
I think with a good roller lifter and modest spring pressures with a solid street roller cam design, the chance of roller lifter shrapnel is less than flat tappet grindings going through your motor. But no doubt they have higher spring pressures and are harder on parts. You'll just need to decide the risk/benefit of a solid roller.

Here is mine: http://508charger.yolasite.com/

Mine is short of 600 hp. I have a small solid roller but eddy heads and factory exhaust manifolds. If you add TF heads and headers to my motor it will certainly be over 600 hp, and probably run 124-125 mph and potential high 10s et, and you'll be able to drive around at 1500 rpm in overdrive. Have someone like PRH spec a different small roller for it, and I think you could get to 650 hp with a very docile driver.
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Thanks for the info, your engine sounds right up my alley.
 
747mopar said:
What's a 1.450x1.750 carb?
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That’s the Venturi size and throttle bore size.

It would be something like a QFT Q-950, but I reference the physical size because not all “950’s” are the same.

For instance, the original Holley HP950 is 1.375x1.750....... so even though both are called “950’s”, one is def bigger than the other.
 
I love solid rollers, I’ve ran them in about everything you can think of. Street and strip. Even the roadrunner being what it is I had no desire at the time I built it to run a solid roller. The solid FT had been very low maint for all the miles I put on it. I set the valves once or twice a year and it gets driven. In something more low RPM focused the HYD Roller would absolutely be my first choice. Put the valve covers on and forget about it. Now if it was a bit more serious and I wanted to sweat in traffic jams, the S.roller would be my go to. Don’t get me wrong, solid rollers with modest spring pressure will absolutely live on the street. Lifter maint is not optional though. They need to be sent out for rebuild and inspection every few years unless, you like to gamble.
 
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68 HEMI GTS said:
I love solid rollers, I’ve ran them in about everything you can think of. Street and strip. Even the roadrunner being what it is I had no desire at the time I built it to run a solid roller. The solid FT had been very low maint for all the miles I put on it. I set the valves once or twice a year and it gets driven. In something more low RPM focused the HYD Roller would absolutely be my first choice. Put the valve covers on and forget about it. Now if it was a bit more serious and I wanted to sweat in traffic jams, the S.roller would be my go to. Don’t get me wrong, solid rollers with modest spring pressure will absolutely live on the street. Lifter maint is not optional though. They need to be sent out for rebuild and inspection every few years unless, you like to gamble.
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Can I get an AMEN brotha!!!
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
I love solid rollers, I’ve ran them in about everything you can think of. Street and strip. Even the roadrunner being what it is I had no desire at the time I built it to run a solid roller. The solid FT had been very low maint for all the miles I put on it. I set the valves once or twice a year and it gets driven. In something more low RPM focused the HYD Roller would absolutely be my first choice. Put the valve covers on and forget about it. Now if it was a bit more serious and I wanted to sweat in traffic jams, the S.roller would be my go to. Don’t get me wrong, solid rollers with modest spring pressure will absolutely live on the street. Lifter maint is not optional though. They need to be sent out for rebuild and inspection every few years unless, you like to gamble.
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Clarify "sent out for rebuild", are you only talking about solid rollers, why is the maintenance different between a solid and a hyd roller lifter other than adjusting them? I'd think both would run the same needle bearing setup?
 
747mopar said:
Clarify "sent out for rebuild", are you only talking about solid rollers, why is the maintenance different between a solid and a hyd roller lifter other than adjusting them? I'd think both would run the same needle bearing setup?
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No, the solids beat up the bearings from having lash. Not all off them oil the bearings either. Most manufactures service their lifters. Such as Comp. you send them back and they inspect, rebuild, and even replace body’s that need it. I just had Comp rebuild 2 sets of 829’s for me. Obviously the more money you spend on lifters the quality increases, such as the EZ ROLLS. Those type of lifters will offer a longer service life. Most of those also require lifter bushings. The comp 829’s are all I generally run in a mopar without lifter bushings.
 
747mopar said:
Clarify "sent out for rebuild", are you only talking about solid rollers, why is the maintenance different between a solid and a hyd roller lifter other than adjusting them? I'd think both would run the same needle bearing setup?
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They’re different because of the higher spring pressures typically associated with solid rollers.
One thing to keep in mind is that roller lifters aren’t all made equally and that the lobe design is equally (maybe more so) responsible for lifter life as well. I’ve used mild lobes with Comp 829 solid rollers for years. I ran the same cam/lifter combo for nearly a decade in my street hemi. I would check them for axle issues and fork spread. Never had them rebuilt the entire time. I finally replaced them with 892s the last time I freshened it.
With Hydraulic Rollers, I use the Morel lifters exclusively now.
 
Hemirunner said:
They’re different because of the higher spring pressures typically associated with solid rollers.
One thing to keep in mind is that roller lifters aren’t all made equally and that the lobe design is equally (maybe more so) responsible for lifter life as well. I’ve used mild lobes with Comp 829 solid rollers for years. I ran the same cam/lifter combo for nearly a decade in my street hemi. I would check them for axle issues and fork spread. Never had them rebuilt the entire time. I finally replaced them with 892s the last time I freshened it.
With Hydraulic Rollers, I use the Morel lifters exclusively now.
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I ran 650# over the nose on my 829’s in the Hemi, I could only get about 2 years out of them. Probably sprung a little heavy but I wasn’t taking chances with the clutch. They always looked ok but when I’d send them back comp said they were trashed. I’ll be saving those for wedge motors. Going to try Iskys in the Hemi this go around.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
I ran 650# over the nose on my 829’s in the Hemi, I could only get about 2 years out of them. Probably sprung a little heavy but I wasn’t taking chances with the clutch. They always looked ok but when I’d send them back comp said they were trashed. I’ll be saving those for wedge motors. Going to try Iskys in the Hemi this go around.
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What lash? I keep the lash tight to keep from slapping em hard. I was lashing at .010 and .013 cold.
 
Think it was around 250 on the seat. I'd have to pull out the build book to be sure. Been along time since I looked at it. I've had the same lifters wear out though in wedge motors with a lot less spring. I ran a set in a 440 for years on the street. They always needed it too when I sent them back. At least according to comp... Lol
 
:lowdown:IQ52 is adamant about using mechanical roller lifters if going roller, so that is all I need to know regarding solid vs hydraulic ROLLER lifters. I may want solid FT though, but I hate to sacrifice the benefits of roller cam profiles.
I was thinking I wouldn't mind checking lash as rarely as I drive my car, but sending the lifters out for inspection and service??
Is there a solid roller lifter brand and spring design (beehive?) or pressure or cam profile (although I wouldn't want to base my cam profile on "ease of maintenance") that wouldn't require or require as often such down time?
 
biomedtechguy said:
:lowdown:IQ52 is adamant about using mechanical roller lifters if going roller, so that is all I need to know regarding solid vs hydraulic ROLLER lifters. I may want solid FT though, but I hate to sacrifice the benefits of roller cam profiles.
I was thinking I wouldn't mind checking lash as rarely as I drive my car, but sending the lifters out for inspection and service??
Is there a solid roller lifter brand and spring design (beehive?) or pressure or cam profile (although I wouldn't want to base my cam profile on "ease of maintenance") that wouldn't require or require as often such down time?
Click to expand...
I was looking into SR as well. I was told that Lunati has good street profiles that live well on the street. They also have full time oiling roller lifters that supposedly live very well on the street, BTW what is the cost of rebuilding roller lifters? Thanks
 
m79ded said:
I was looking into SR as well. I was told that Lunati has good street profiles that live well on the street. They also have full time oiling roller lifters that supposedly live very well on the street
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Thanks for the reply. When that glorious day comes and I get that build going I don't want to be disappointed or afterwards say "if only...or I wish..."
 
I am also building a 512. Base is a 440 with the 440 source 512 kit and a block girdle. Nothing decided an heads or cam yet, except that it will be a roller cam, and probably from Hughes, since they where very helpful in choosing another cam for a different build.
 
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