m79ded
Well-Known Member
Call Tom @ TK Race hes in your Area 514-920-0094. He has done lots of Mopars and very good machinist. Worked with Ray Barton for many years when Ray was in Montreal. Another choice is Nick's Garage in Laval
516 heads on a 400
- Thread starter machelis
- Start date
machelis
Well-Known Member
I forgot about Tom. He did a set of vintage sled heads for me years ago. Thanks for the reminder.
I was going to visit Nick on a Saturday once I trusted the car enough for the long drive to Laval.
I was going to visit Nick on a Saturday once I trusted the car enough for the long drive to Laval.
moper
Well-Known Member
Assuming these are placeholders for now...
Take the heads, lap the valves and replace the valve seals. Install Comp 926-16 springs, and stick a Summit brand hydraulic (the "small" one) in it and advance it 4* using their billet timing set. It won't last forever, but it's good for a few years at least for under $600. No sense IMO to completely go through the 516s for a placeholder deal, and no sense in doing some work but not everything to refurbish them. So if they are good, have them cleaned, and just do what I mentioned.
Take the heads, lap the valves and replace the valve seals. Install Comp 926-16 springs, and stick a Summit brand hydraulic (the "small" one) in it and advance it 4* using their billet timing set. It won't last forever, but it's good for a few years at least for under $600. No sense IMO to completely go through the 516s for a placeholder deal, and no sense in doing some work but not everything to refurbish them. So if they are good, have them cleaned, and just do what I mentioned.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
only works if the guides are good MOPER and they usually are not
lapping the valves on bad guides makes it worse when the valves start moving around
so do a real valve job and if he can blend the 70 or 80 bottom cut let him do it but I doubt I'd pay to have it done in your sceanerio
however if there is a short 82 degree bottom cut there would be little hand work
find someone with a SERDI or equivalent that already has the multi angle valve cutter 60 should be about the same width as the 45- rest narrower
If you can find a long deal on Elgin you can have more choices than the two Summit cams
any long deals on Voodoo's available?
lapping the valves on bad guides makes it worse when the valves start moving around
so do a real valve job and if he can blend the 70 or 80 bottom cut let him do it but I doubt I'd pay to have it done in your sceanerio
however if there is a short 82 degree bottom cut there would be little hand work
find someone with a SERDI or equivalent that already has the multi angle valve cutter 60 should be about the same width as the 45- rest narrower
If you can find a long deal on Elgin you can have more choices than the two Summit cams
any long deals on Voodoo's available?
moper
Well-Known Member
Agreed. But it's a place holder anyway. Douche them, stick cheap springs on it, and go for as long as you can.
Your approach (using what I pay):
Clean/mag, new 2.08/1.74 stainless valves, new guides, cut spring seats, 5 angle Serdi deal, cut them flat, springs, retainers and locks... And you have $1600 fresh place holder heads on a used 8:1 shortblock. No value there.
Your approach (using what I pay):
Clean/mag, new 2.08/1.74 stainless valves, new guides, cut spring seats, 5 angle Serdi deal, cut them flat, springs, retainers and locks... And you have $1600 fresh place holder heads on a used 8:1 shortblock. No value there.
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
we don't know what shape his heads are in
but just lap them? I never lap anything except to see where the seat is
but just lap them? I never lap anything except to see where the seat is
machelis
Well-Known Member
How about a scenario for arguments sake. What if I decide to eventually throw high comp pistons in there, then would it be worth going balls out on these heads and instead install a placeholder cam?
wyrmrider
Well-Known Member
Not really unless you can do the port work DIY
save for some aftermarket heads which will work better OTB than mildly ported 516
There is another post where the poster estimated $1000 plus for guides, seats, valves, springs, good valve job, etc- If I see it I'll post a link
I think it was MOPER
if your 512's are ok just stick the recommend short cam in it
Howard and Bullet I know can do a similar spec @.006 and most likely Lunati
problem with these is that I know what the .006 is but I do not know how long they take to get the valve really closed
save for some aftermarket heads which will work better OTB than mildly ported 516
There is another post where the poster estimated $1000 plus for guides, seats, valves, springs, good valve job, etc- If I see it I'll post a link
I think it was MOPER
if your 512's are ok just stick the recommend short cam in it
Howard and Bullet I know can do a similar spec @.006 and most likely Lunati
problem with these is that I know what the .006 is but I do not know how long they take to get the valve really closed
moper
Well-Known Member
Short answer - don't invest in something you're going to change in the short term. That's a great way to lose money because what you have once run, is used stuff - no matter what you spent on it. If your engine runs well now, stick a cheap cam in it plus some wearables and parts that match it, and keep enjoying it until you can do the major changes.
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