62 Belvedere 318 poly granny cruiser (one day i hope)
- Thread starter icetech
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icetech
Well-Known Member
Ok.... so i'm sitting at work and thinking bout why i can't get my motor unlocked and an issue came to me.. 2 of the cyls are like 1" from TDC so when i put fluid in the cyl through the plug hole that fluid is only sitting on top of maybe 1/3 of the piston due to the angle.. What i think i will try is first squirting deep creep in and letting it work down and then putting a plug in and running a rubber hose down the intake runner of those 2 cyls add fluid and try to open the intake valve which hopefully will let the fluid sit in long enough to work. The rust isn't scale or anything bad, but just enough to be an issue.
Unless anyone else has a better idea?
Pulling the motor might happen anyway.. but now it's kind of a challenge to me. I also need to make a tool to open the valve without hurting the rocker at all.. don't want to pull them unless i have to. trying to keep as much complete til i get to that part of the car as i can.
Unless anyone else has a better idea?
Pulling the motor might happen anyway.. but now it's kind of a challenge to me. I also need to make a tool to open the valve without hurting the rocker at all.. don't want to pull them unless i have to. trying to keep as much complete til i get to that part of the car as i can.
Make sure you rotate backwards and then forward. Both my 66s sat for minimum 20 years and they both cranked over fine with a new battery, so I consider myself lucky.
What is this 05 mustang disk brake swap you speak of?
What is this 05 mustang disk brake swap you speak of?
icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah, i don't think this motor will free up sadly.. luckily i'm not in a hurry and will keep soaking it will fixing rust. If it gets to crunch time i will pull the heads and clean the cyls by hand. Which isn't a bad job anyway, other than the motor mount in the way of exhaust bolts.. 62's are weird..
The brake thing only takes a bracket you can make out of plate steel, no bends or anything and $300 in parts if you go all new or cheaper in a junkyard. I'm looking forward to trying it out
(not sure if they will fit under my 14's though..)This guy sells premade brackets also.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Not a lot done tonight, i opened up the new welder.. i wanted to try flux cause i hate dealing with gas bottles and man what a mistake.. got the harbor freight easy flux and even on the lowest settings it was blowing through 18ga like a plasma cutter, it's going back tomorrow, glad i tried it somewhere that can't be seen got the box patched up, it's not pretty but it's strong. (don't judge, that welder is easily the worst welding experience of my life, i now know where welders hell is) been looking at reviews tonight and will probably order a yeswelder 205ds
I did phosphorous it after the pic and it's already all nice and black and looks good, i'm still gonna rustoleum over that. its one spot that won't rust again
P.S. starting making replacement parts and having a plasma cutter is like magic.. just soo much faster
got the box patched up, it's not pretty but it's strong. (don't judge, that welder is easily the worst welding experience of my life, i now know where welders hell is) been looking at reviews tonight and will probably order a yeswelder 205dsI did phosphorous it after the pic and it's already all nice and black and looks good, i'm still gonna rustoleum over that. its one spot that won't rust again
P.S. starting making replacement parts and having a plasma cutter is like magic.. just soo much faster
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Flus core works better on thicker material in my experience. Others may have opposite. Add in that you are working with rusty 18ga that is probably way thinner due to the rust factor. Like you may actually be working with shim stock when it gets down to it. I learned how to gas weld, when I was a kid, by repairing 30 year old irrigation pipe that was in the dirt. Fun stuff.
icetech
Well-Known Member
yeah, i knew flux ran hot but i can't imagine trying to do body work with it, which i will need to do. I odered a yeswelder 205DS which is supposed to be great for smaller stuff.. I used to work doing a lot of production tig welding but welding is one of those things that if you don't do it for 20 years you are a newbie
icetech
Well-Known Member
Pulled the valve covers tonight to check for stuck valves and she's a dirty girl I am pretty sure this motor will have to come out but no harm in trying.. 3 cyls are holding oil still so they are pretty sealed up. Gonna keep soaking and trying things while fixing the body/chassis, another week or so and i will pull the heads and go from there. Sludge looks worse than it is... 106k miles, could be worse.
BTW, any trick to get the front manifold bolts off? i assume, lift motor and remove the motor mount to get to it.
I am pretty sure this motor will have to come out but no harm in trying.. 3 cyls are holding oil still so they are pretty sealed up. Gonna keep soaking and trying things while fixing the body/chassis, another week or so and i will pull the heads and go from there. Sludge looks worse than it is... 106k miles, could be worse.BTW, any trick to get the front manifold bolts off? i assume, lift motor and remove the motor mount to get to it.
Yeah, i don't think this motor will free up sadly.. luckily i'm not in a hurry and will keep soaking it will fixing rust. If it gets to crunch time i will pull the heads and clean the cyls by hand. Which isn't a bad job anyway, other than the motor mount in the way of exhaust bolts.. 62's are weird..
The brake thing only takes a bracket you can make out of plate steel, no bends or anything and $300 in parts if you go all new or cheaper in a junkyard. I'm looking forward to trying it out
This guy sells premade brackets also.
Wow, that is pretty cool. How thick do you think that plate steel he used was? Him filming in the dark made it a bit hard to see lol.
That engine needs rebuilt. It looks like it's never had an oil change and was only driven short distances, or something.Pulled the valve covers tonight to check for stuck valves and she's a dirty girl
BTW, any trick to get the front manifold bolts off? i assume, lift motor and remove the motor mount to get to it.
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icetech
Well-Known Member
he used 3/8 plate which may be overkill but with brakes i would rather be overkill
icetech
Well-Known Member
icetech
Well-Known Member
K, soo.. my motor is pretty well dead, i can't see dumping 2k+ into a 318, right now locally a guy has a 1964 383 with pushbutton trans for 700.. (no intake, but no biggy)
The questions though.. does the 64 pushbutton trans use the same cables as a 62? i could swear i read something bout them using different ends on the cables.. I assume the 383's exhaust manifolds would be fine.
The questions though.. does the 64 pushbutton trans use the same cables as a 62? i could swear i read something bout them using different ends on the cables.. I assume the 383's exhaust manifolds would be fine.
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icetech
Well-Known Member
Spent bout 90 minutes today grinding rust/undercoating, thought i had plenty of a breeze through my garage, but nope had goggles and a mask and my eyes feel like they have been sandblasted.. ah well.. on the upside, frame is solid, not a single hole and freakishly i removed the rear shackles expecting a hellish fight (michigan cars...) and the things literally slid right out with barely prying.. life could be worse..
BTW. i'm using twisted wire wheels on angle grinder, anything better for undercoating? don't plan to remove it all but anywhere that it's loose...
had goggles and a mask and my eyes feel like they have been sandblasted.. ah well.. on the upside, frame is solid, not a single hole and freakishly i removed the rear shackles expecting a hellish fight (michigan cars...) and the things literally slid right out with barely prying.. life could be worse..BTW. i'm using twisted wire wheels on angle grinder, anything better for undercoating? don't plan to remove it all but anywhere that it's loose...
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Some people use heat, wire like you, Goofoff or some other ways. I've just been chipping mine. The factory stuff is pretty tenacious, stuck like a tick on a dawg. I tried the Goofoff, Cal compliant version which is probably why it didn't do anything. For the 383 change, you'll need different engine mount brackets/trans case plus of course accessory drives.
icetech
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the 383 for sale has a pushbutton trans with it
soo.. should be pretty straight forward.. and this car was undercoated to death, someone was angry that day.. even the trans and oilpan got it.
Holy crap that is a dirty engine! The 383 will be a nice upgrade.
icetech
Well-Known Member
I popped the intake today and OMG it's 10x worse inside, you can barely even see the dist drive, it's crazy...
Thinking bout the 383.. or maybe something else and dropping the pushbutton for a normal shifter, i hate that idea but the PB limits things... no rush... plenty of other stuff to fix while i figure out my plan
icetech
Well-Known Member
Finally started adding metal back last night... first piece is just a old piece of 16ga i had laying around, i got some new sheets of 18ga now and it's sooo much easier to work The new welder was sooo worth buying, such a difference from my old one, might get the lift tig adapter to try that later one. BTW, grinding welds SUCKS.. but i learned a bit, should get better as i go.
P.S. decided to try to find a 360 to throw in this thing since it's the easiest path, kind of surprised how much people want for complete junk though at this point, no rush
P.P.S. I should have seprarated the valance and quarter completely but it will be ok when i'm done (i hope)
The new welder was sooo worth buying, such a difference from my old one, might get the lift tig adapter to try that later one. BTW, grinding welds SUCKS.. but i learned a bit, should get better as i go. P.S. decided to try to find a 360 to throw in this thing since it's the easiest path, kind of surprised how much people want for complete junk though at this point, no rush
P.P.S. I should have seprarated the valance and quarter completely but it will be ok when i'm done (i hope)
Looking good.Finally started adding metal back last night... first piece is just a old piece of 16ga i had laying around, i got some new sheets of 18ga now and it's sooo much easier to work
P.S. decided to try to find a 360 to throw in this thing since it's the easiest path, kind of surprised how much people want for complete junk though at this point, no rush
P.P.S. I should have seprarated the valance and quarter completely but it will be ok when i'm done (i hope)
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