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63 Plymouth stock eliminator project

I second that on the brake pedal stop under the dash ! We built a KOS Duster for Tony M in Mich. His first one, he took out the brake light switch and that stopped the pedal from coming out of the master. The first hard run he took when he launched off the line with the transbreak, the rod came out and at the end of the track at about 135+ he had no brakes and crashed the car ! He did not get hurt but I think we only salvaged the motor, trans, rearend. Loaded up the car on an open trailer and scrapped it out !
 
More changes...new headers are on. First time I've had the rocker covers off, valve train looks good.

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If that's your brake line on the firewall, it won't pass a real NHRA technical inspection

As you can see by the current rulebook if the brake line isn't in the tunnel it isn't in the flywheel bellhousing area. Ther are many cars with the factory brake line across the firewall.
Doug
From the 2024 NHRA rule book general section pg 17
BRAKES & SUSPENSION: 33:1 BRAKES
Brakes on each car, regardless of class, must be in goodworking order with two-wheel hydraulic brakes on rear wheelsas a minimum requirement. Four-wheel hydraulic brakes arerecommended, or as specified under Class Requirements.Lightening of backing plates, brake drums, and/or brake shoes/pads by cutting or trimming metal or friction material prohibited.Cooling or lightening holes may not be drilled in cast iron discbrake rotors. Aluminum rotors prohibited. If hand brake is used,brake handle must be inside car body or driver compartment.Brake lines must be steel, stainless steel, nickel-copper, steelbraided, or DOT-approved flexible. May be routed inside theframe rail or enclosed in a 16-inch length of 1/8-inch minimumwall thickness steel tubing securely mounted where line(s) pass the flywheel bellhousing area and not routed in the driveline
 
cjd1963, do you have any pictures of where the cage bars attach to the floor/rails in the trunk? Curious about that area as I'm doing some mods in the trunk on my 65 for a fuel tank switch.
 
well some but some where deleted for street use , but mine has support bars running into the trunk floor from the top bar tube . but here's some of another 63

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well it's all laid out in the rules for what class you're running in . my 63 will get the front bars and front frame supports as well , with my next power plant . but build for the next level .
 
Looks like the bar terminates above the shackle mount on your photo.
 
Took the Sport Fury to the local 1/8 mile track Saturday for some testing. Overall I would say a success. Maiden pass was a 7.89, 7.86 is the I/SA index for 1/8 mile. Accidently short shifted from low to second. 5200 rpm, shift light is set at 6000. Picked up on the second run to a 7.85 even thoughI short shifted (again) but this time going in to high gear. Have a few things to address on the car but happy with it overall. It showed me there is potential and can now start looking for some quicker ET's.

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Looks great!

Glad you got to make a few hits.

Do you know the cam specs?

Did you happen to check to see what the flash stall speed was?
 
If those “advertised” duration(.020) specs are correct, that’s a bunch of seat timing for the .050 numbers.

I suspect that 305 number actually happens at something other than .020”(probably more like .006”).

Any idea what the V/P situation is?

Have you done a cranking pressure test?

If built to spec, do you know what the CR would be?

Sorry for all the questions.

Edit- I found what I’m pretty sure are the lobes used on your cam in the Bullet lobe catalog.
Looks like they’re in the “hydraulic” listings, so those 305/309 numbers “should be” at .006”.
Not that that changes anything……it’s more just curiosity on my part.
 
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If those “advertised” duration(.020) specs are correct, that’s a bunch of seat timing for the .050 numbers.

I suspect that 305 number actually happens at something other than .020”(probably more like .006”).

Any idea what the V/P situation is?

Have you done a cranking pressure test?

If built to spec, do you know what the CR would be?

Sorry for all the questions.

Edit- I found what I’m pretty sure are the lobes used on your cam in the Bullet lobe catalog.
Looks like they’re in the “hydraulic” listings, so those 305/309 numbers “should be” at .006”.
Not that that changes anything……it’s more just curiosity on my part.
This engine/cam combo was built by Brad van Lant for one of his customers. I bought the car from him last year with only break in time on the engine, 0 runs on it. It is a hydrulic cam with stock lift from the factory. I believe the stock comp. for this engine is 10:1. Can't answer the other questions since I'm not an engine builder, sorry.
 
I'd live to take my shot at a stocker engine build. But the cost is prohibitive. I talked to Ben Wenzel this weekend about his 67 Z28 engine. His engines have ranged from 10.27- 10.70 in D/S. The funny thing was the engine he has with a Dart block is slower than the factory Chevy block. We both thought the Dart would seal better and be quicker. Then again he isn't the machineist. So it could've been honed inproperly. He ran 10.4x at Milan this past weekend. Really cool guy. Bought the car new. He's 82 still banging the 4 speed. I wonder if I could convince him to take over as the driver when he's ready? I have an offer to drive a FS/D late model Challenger. Bur I have to assemble the engine. It's a proven piece that runs over 1.0 under. To damn busy right now. Or I have to park my Belvedere.
Doug
 
I'd live to take my shot at a stocker engine build. But the cost is prohibitive. I talked to Ben Wenzel this weekend about his 67 Z28 engine. His engines have ranged from 10.27- 10.70 in D/S. The funny thing was the engine he has with a Dart block is slower than the factory Chevy block. We both thought the Dart would seal better and be quicker. Then again he isn't the machineist. So it could've been honed inproperly. He ran 10.4x at Milan this past weekend. Really cool guy. Bought the car new. He's 82 still banging the 4 speed. I wonder if I could convince him to take over as the driver when he's ready? I have an offer to drive a FS/D late model Challenger. Bur I have to assemble the engine. It's a proven piece that runs over 1.0 under. To damn busy right now. Or I have to park my Belvedere.
Doug
Talked to Ben a few years ago at the Jegs speed week, very cool guy. Hope I am still racing when I'm 82. The FS/D Challenger would be fun to, but I understand being too damn busy. Never enough time in the day.
 
While stocker racing is fun and interesting, a real good competitive engine build is cost prohibitive. After chasing that carrot for over 35 years I finally cashed-in, sold my stocker and am building an s/s car as it's actually cheaper in the long run! Most stock eliminator engines are often running on the ragged edge in order to be competitive, but that all depends on the class you're running, how serious you are and how deep your pockets are. Every time I dipped into my pockets, all I came up with was lint! Good luck on your venture, school's in...wb
 
While stocker racing is fun and interesting, a real good competitive engine build is cost prohibitive. After chasing that carrot for over 35 years I finally cashed-in, sold my stocker and am building an s/s car as it's actually cheaper in the long run! Most stock eliminator engines are often running on the ragged edge in order to be competitive, but that all depends on the class you're running, how serious you are and how deep your pockets are. Every time I dipped into my pockets, all I came up with was lint! Good luck on your venture, school's in...wb
This is all true, I've been racing a stocker off and on since about 2006. Not looking to win class at Indy or set any records. If my car runs 3 to 5 tenths under the index I'm satsfied. The car can still be bracket raced although I don't do it that often. Surprisingly the engine in this car was just under $11,000 and my 318 stocker engine in the 79 Aspen was just over $8000. That's with 4 dyno pulls included on each engine. I mainly race with the Buckeye S/SS group and other S/SS groups and occasional Divisional or NHRA open events. These races I just mentioned (divisional and open) are cost prohibitive in my opinion because of the entry fees and racing for the same purse or even less than the S/SS groups and being subjected randomly to having to tear down when it's 90 degrees out and me turning 70 this year. All about having a good time and seeing friends and making new ones. Thanks and I appreciate your input, Craig.
 
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