64 rear brake drum removal

[khryslerkid]

Having a difficult time trying to back off the brake adjuster star wheel so I can work on getting the drum off. I know there is a lock tab that needs to be pushed in so as to be able to turn the star wheel in the proper direction.

More than likely you have this style. Take a small flashlight and look in the adjuster hole. You can stick a small screwdriver in the backing plate hole to push it away from the star wheel, then turn the adjuster with a brake spoon or a sharp screwdriver.

 

[fwi]

I got the brakes bakes off, just in time, before the cavalry arrived with the proper tool.....now the drums are OFF!
Thanks in no small part to my good friend and FBBO member Darter6 who made it happen. Now to order new brake cylinders from Rockauto.

 

[fwi]

After spraying Brakleen, still not as pretty as Khryslerkid's brakes!

 

[khryslerkid]

Now you can figure out why the one side was locking up.

Was one side wet before you cleaned it?

Pull back the rubber on the wheel cylinders and see if there's any brake fluid.

Was one side adjusted more than the other?

 

[fwi]

Neither side was wet, but the pax side cylinder did leak out fluid when the rubber was pulled. I had messed with adjustments when it started locking up to see if that was the problem. The shoes look like very little wear and the drums look good. I just ordred a pair of brake cylinders.

 

[khryslerkid]

Neither side was wet, but the pax side cylinder did leak out fluid when the rubber was pulled. I had messed with adjustments when it started locking up to see if that was the problem. The shoes look like very little wear and the drums look good. I just ordred a pair of brake cylinders.

Spray your brake line fittings behind the backing plates with penetrating oil so they come loose for you. I like to use a line wrench to break them loose and just work them back and forth a bit before trying to turn them all the way. It's easy to twist the line at the fitting if you're not careful.

Good luck!

 

[mobileparts]

For all those interested in this thread, you might also then be interested to know that I have exactly two (2) N.O.S. (ONLY, of course, no Chineseum world on this)
(For those that have the police car / ambulance package) 11" x 3" Rear Keyway HUB & DRUM Assemblies !!!!!!

 

[fwi]

For all those interested in this thread, you might also then be interested to know that I have exactly two (2) N.O.S. (ONLY, of course, no Chineseum world on this)
(For those that have the police car / ambulance package) 11" x 3" Rear Keyway HUB & DRUM Assemblies !!!!!!

Thank you, I just received 2 cylinders from Rockauto today, if they don't work out, I will contact you.

 

[fwi]

Well, now that the wheel cylinders have been replaced, drums back on......while bleeding the brakes I see a brake fluid leak emanating from the master cylinder gasket area where it mounts onto the brake booster!
Hope its only a gasket, although I would just replace the entire master cylinder if I could find one, as it is pretty old and rusted on the outside and where it is bolted to the booster. It is the single chamber original model.
I think this part will fit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Mast...FbnqZ6&fits=Year:1964|Model:Polara|Make:Dodge

 

[Darter6]

Yes that master will work. Many times fresh fluid will wash out crap and then the seals start to leak. Gasket is just so water don't go into the driver compartment. The master cups are leaking. You might as well change it. I won't go into installing a dual master since that one lasted 55 years.You may find a better price at Rock Auto

 

[fwi]

Which one would you pick?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...434992,brake+&+wheel+hub,master+cylinder,1836

 

[khryslerkid]

You need one for power brakes. The one you posted on ebay was a standard I believe.

 

[fwi]

You need one for power brakes. The one you posted on ebay was a standard I believe.

I see Rockauto has both and a lot cheaper.

 

[Rick62]

I have one of those old drum pullers. Anyone who wants to pick it up in Greer, SC can have it. FREE!!

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Call Mark at Saturn Surl,us he just got some in not listed yet NOS. Drop my name might help.
http://saturnsurplus.com/

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

64 Dodge, 8 3/4 rear end. Right rear locks up, unable to remove both rear drum. have done all the moves, backed off the adjusters, sprayed up inside with WD 40, beat the crap out of the drum all the way around, used a wheel puller, won't budge (yes I have removed the castle nut prior to above procedure). Any suggestions that do not involve buying expensive specialized tools/welders/etc....?

Sometimes if you cut/grind the shafts for the hold down springs on the back of the backing plate they come off easier also.

 

[Darter6]

For the difference in price I'd go with the Raybestos. I never noticed that your car had power brakes. Cool unusual for a Slant 3 speed stick. Back then you could order just about anything.

 

[fwi]

For the difference in price I'd go with the Raybestos. I never noticed that your car had power brakes. Cool unusual for a Slant 3 speed stick. Back then you could order just about anything.

Rockauto is out of stock on the entire booster/master assembly, hopefully just the master needs replacing. I will take it apart today (as soon as it warms up to at least 50)

 

[Darter6]

If the booster holds Vacuum you should be ok.Run the engine to build vacuum,shut it off and you should get 2 to 3 pedal pumps before the vacuum depletes.

 

[fwi]

Now I have another problem, castle nut will only thread half way, it looks like the axle threads are striped. Should I force it on or use a file to try and regroove?