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65' coronet with a 440 22" to 26" radiator advice

shawn880

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I have a 65 coronet with a 440 that was swapped from a small block at some point. It has the 22" core support opening with an aftermarket 22" aluminum radiator (unk make). My question is im seriously considering going to a 26" radiator if possible, as I live in S. Louisiana and it gets hot here. The car currently has a 165 stat and it struggles to keep it in the 190's right now. During the summer its a different story. Im trying to think ahead and just would like some advice on if anyone has attempted to open up the core support on something similar to mine and if its worth it. Im thinking the extra size on the bigger radiator would be nice. I believe the 440 should have had a 26" radiator in it from the beginning. The car also has two electric fans and an aluminum shroud. I want to ditch all of that and go mechanical with a clutch and shroud.

Thanks,
Shawn
 
I run a 22" aluminum radiator for my 440. I have had cooling issues. I even installed a electric pusher fan for those times when you may be in a bit of traffic and the temps started to climb fast.

Last summer I changed my T-Stat to a high flow Robert Shaw 180 degree one, and changed my water pump to a FlowKooler. I also run a "closed" style system where I do not leave any room at the top of the radiator, and it is completely filled with a overflow bottle to catch anything which then is returned to the radiator as it cools. My car had a 4 blade mechanical fan, and I changed to a steel 6 blade, no shroud.

YMMV, but after those changes on my car, I have not had to turn on the electric pusher since, and the car runs between 180-190 steady. Getting the system burped of all air is also very important.
 
Not the best photo of my 63 318 using a 26'' rad from a Cordoba.
Tough fit. Had to relocate holes of the mounting flange.
Also clearance the bottom rad support some for cap hood clearance.
The rad support opening is large enough for a 26''
The photos of the 65 blue car that was a slant six we went with a OE 26'' rad from a Hemi E body
using the stock rad support.Again relocation the Flange bolt holes.
Best I can do with photos for you.

IMG_2858.jpg


DSC01142.JPG


DSC01102.JPG
 
An aluminum 22" radiator w two 1.25" rows, will cool a 440 just fine if the supporting components are good. Depending on room between front of engine and the radiator, heavy duty fan clutch, 7 blade 18" fan, shroud, wire support in lower radiator hose, 180° t-stat, proper water pump pulley ratio, and good water pump. If not enough room, a spacer and direct drive 18" 7 blade fan.

I use a 26" on a 496 due to a/c. W a 180° t-stat in 125° weather, it runs on the highway at 176ish and in town stop n go at 196ish w a/c blasting. So a good 22" w no a/c in what people call "hot", should definitely cool a 440 w no a/c.
 
i use a 22" in my 65 coronet and it works very good. the car had a/c but that has since been gone. the factory a/c radiator had the bigger 2 5/8" bottom tank that allowed me to use a 4 row brass core (1/2" tubes on 3/8" centers). i use a 180f thermostat and the car never overheats. i'm running a modified 440 engine with headers. the hottest i've ever seen the engine get was 194F idling in traffic on a 104f day in 2011. a 22" can cool.
 
I have factory 22 inch radiators redone by Bob at Glen Ray in both my B-bodies. 451 stroker at 550 hp and a 493 stroker at 580hp. Flow Kooler water pumps, Hi flow 180* stats, lower hose spring, standard green antifreeze. They both run 185-195 depending on outdoor temperature. I think you will be fine with a stock 440 and a 22" radiator.
 
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i have a factory metal shroud and 7 blade fan, but nothing lines up correctly with the radiator i have. i did find some numbers on the side and its a 22" Engineered Cooling unit 1963-1969 mopar radiator 2 row 1" tubes. it struggles bad with two electric fans to keep up and will be worse when it gets hot down here. im really leaning towards a 26" unit with a plastic factory shroud. im just concerned about how hard it is to fit that into my 65. Thank you for all the replies. I could just keep the same, but why not go with a 26", flowKooler pump and correct thermostat (im not sure of either of those at the moment).
 
i use a 22" in my 65 coronet and it works very good. the car had a/c but that has since been gone. the factory a/c radiator had the bigger 2 5/8" bottom tank that allowed me to use a 4 row brass core (1/2" tubes on 3/8" centers). i use a 180f thermostat and the car never overheats. i'm running a modified 440 engine with headers. the hottest i've ever seen the engine get was 194F idling in traffic on a 104f day in 2011. a 22" can cool.
thank you, I think im just going to go with a 26" if i do anything.
 
I have factory 22 inch radiators redone by Bob at Glen Ray in both my B-bodies. 451 stroker at 550 hp and a 493 stroker at 580hp. Flow Kooler water pumps, Hi flow 180* stats, lower hose spring, standard green antifreeze. They both run 185-195 depending on outdoor temperature. I think you will be fine with a stock 440 and a 22" radiator.
id need to sell a kid to get one of those Glen Ray units. This car isnt a show queen. just need to keep it cool.
 
thank you, I think im just going to go with a 26" if i do anything.
I have seen guys bolt a 26" radiator into a 22" opening, just have to redrill the 2 holes on the passenger side. They claim it worked ok, but of course you are losing out on some airflow. Otherwise you need to change that side of the rad support. I think AMD sells just that side.
 
id need to sell a kid to get one of those Glen Ray units. This car isnt a show queen. just need to keep it cool.
Glen-Ray does make no-numbers radiators with the same high-quality components that work just as well for a lesser price also. It may be worth a phone call.
 
On my 63 with the 26'' Cordoba radiator I later installed the factory Cordoba fan shroud and the clutch fan.
No problem with Nevada HOT summer temperatures. I installed Vintage Air this winter. We will see.
 
I run a 22" aluminum radiator for my 440. I have had cooling issues. I even installed a electric pusher fan for those times when you may be in a bit of traffic and the temps started to climb fast.

Last summer I changed my T-Stat to a high flow Robert Shaw 180 degree one, and changed my water pump to a FlowKooler. I also run a "closed" style system where I do not leave any room at the top of the radiator, and it is completely filled with a overflow bottle to catch anything which then is returned to the radiator as it cools. My car had a 4 blade mechanical fan, and I changed to a steel 6 blade, no shroud.

YMMV, but after those changes on my car, I have not had to turn on the electric pusher since, and the car runs between 180-190 steady. Getting the system burped of all air is also very important.

thank you Don. Ive been reading until blue in the face. I'm going with a new 22" ECP and your recommendations on mech fan, high flow tstat, flowkooker and I also have a shroud coming (may even be better with that). I just need to get new hoses and the spring for the lower, which I should be able to source locally. Thanks everyone for all the input. In the end, I just didnt want to chop into the core support or have a unit that wasn't fully using all of its surface area properly.

-Shawn
 
thank you Don. Ive been reading until blue in the face. I'm going with a new 22" ECP and your recommendations on mech fan, high flow tstat, flowkooker and I also have a shroud coming (may even be better with that). I just need to get new hoses and the spring for the lower, which I should be able to source locally. Thanks everyone for all the input. In the end, I just didnt want to chop into the core support or have a unit that wasn't fully using all of its surface area properly.

-Shawn

Honestly, my rad is OK, nothing special, eBay Mopar 22" replica in aluminum. The issues persisted until I got the FlowKooler. Cannot say enough good things about that water pump. Made all the difference to the changes I had made. And where did I get that advice? Reading FBBO!

Good luck with your plan. :thumbsup:
 
Honestly, my rad is OK, nothing special, eBay Mopar 22" replica in aluminum. The issues persisted until I got the FlowKooler. Cannot say enough good things about that water pump. Made all the difference to the changes I had made. And where did I get that advice? Reading FBBO!

Good luck with your plan. :thumbsup:
Just to follow up on this and for anyone that finds this thread in the vast amount of cooling threads. I went with a 22" ECP radiator, factory metal two piece shroud, 7 blade Mopar fan with clutch, flowkookler water pump and 180* robertshaw/flowkooler t-stat. I used a 50/50 coolant mix. The prior radiator on there was an ECP unit, but with the top intake tube mounted in the middle. This one is actually for a big block and the intake tube is mounted on the passenger side. It also appears to have a larger lower exit tube vs the old unit, but both in the same place. Turns out the prior owner tried to band aid the cooling issues with different electrical fans and a 160* robertshaw t-stat. At that point the vehicle in South Louisiana heat would get hot if not moving. you had to run both electric fans and it sounded terrible and like it was going to take off. The batt gauge didn't like those fans on at idle either. At first after all the hard parts replaced, I received the wrong 180* t-stat from flowkooker. I ordered a 330 vs 370 series. Lesson learned :BangHead:. Anyways, with the 160*, the car stayed around 160*, which was great to see knowing that I had a 180 on the way. Fast forward to a few weeks ago and I've driven it on hot days some it will idle for ever and stay from 188-192. Its fixed and I'm happy. :thankyou:

Thanks everyone!
 
I installed vintage air in my 65 Coronet this past year, 383, 9 to 1 with a comp xe284h.
I went with an ECP 22” radiator, 18” 6 blade fan, 180 T stat, A-body fan shroud (classic industries ma2228), and a fan spacer from jegs. The car stays around 190 at idle (in traffic) with the a/c on, 85 deg outside. Once you start moving the engine drops to 180 and the thermostat will actually cycle open closed.

I’m sure your set up will work just as well!

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
I installed vintage air in my 65 Coronet this past year, 383, 9 to 1 with a comp xe284h.
I went with an ECP 22” radiator, 18” 6 blade fan, 180 T stat, A-body fan shroud (classic industries ma2228), and a fan spacer from jegs. The car stays around 190 at idle (in traffic) with the a/c on, 85 deg outside. Once you start moving the engine drops to 180 and the thermostat will actually cycle open closed.

I’m sure your set up will work just as well!

View attachment 1432552

View attachment 1432554
very nice set up
 
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