Aluminum Radiator Options

[68 Sport Satellite]

Dodge vs Plymouth might account for the difference in mod vs no mod required? (Kern Dog has Dodges and Billccm is Plymouth).

 

[beanhead]

Dodge vs Plymouth might account for the difference in mod vs no mod required? (Kern Dog has Dodges and Billccm is Plymouth).

That's what I was thinking too Dwayne. Or, maybe it's just "because Chrysler" hahaha!

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

That's what I was thinking too Dwayne. Or, maybe it's just "because Chrysler" hahaha!

once again - where's the HaHa emoji? We need one on the bottom near the Like button.

 

[threewood]

I have the ACC 26" radiator posted on page one. Fit is great. Only modification was enlarging the fan shroud holes to allow the use of sheetmetal nuts. Cools well with a 195 thermostat.

 

[Billccm]

I have the ACC 26" radiator posted on page one. Fit is great. Only modification was enlarging the fan shroud holes to allow the use of sheetmetal nuts. Cools well with a 195 thermostat.

I'll probably go that route if I buy a new radiator.

 

[j-c-c-62]

Let's see some actual temperature numbers instead of speculation that proves your premise. Remember....it's the number of fins per inch (between the tubes) that does the cooling not the size of the tubes......
BOB RENTON

And in theory, the deeper the radiator the less efficient the cooling. All cooling is focused on the delta between two mediums .air/water, and the second and higher number rows only see progressively hotter air to cool hotter water and the delta is lost as the radiator gets deeper. Of course size is limited, and most solutions are a compromise.
I'd also add, most fan shrouds and fans as effective and useful as they might be at idle and slow speeds, are unfortunately then very effective at blocking radiator air at higher vehicle speeds, just another compromise to be made in the big picture.
I also believe there is little downside to using the highest pressure (16Lb+) your system can handle, with a low ratio of AF, to help prevent any localized hard to diagnose internal hot spots/boiling and/or cavitation inside the motors cooling system.
Or you could just run E85 and forgetaboutit.


















1492

 

[j-c-c-62]

When ambient temps get high, so will the engine temp, that's a fact of life. The radiator using 85 degree air is a far cry from it using 100+ degree air, as far as what you'll see on the temp gauge.
Another thing that never gets mentioned, is road surface temps and heat radiation.
On a 100 degree day, asphalt temps can reach up over 160....that heat radiates upwards and is partially what gets sucked into our radiators, as the grill and bumper vents aren't all that far away from the road surface.
As well as my system cools my 600ish 505" in 90 or less degree weather (never gets over 180) it will climb to 200-205 when I spend lots of time in town, with multiple shut down/heat soaks in summer 100+.
Not worried at all. As long as your temp isn't climbing to 215-220 or more, it's not a problem.
The issue is with a carbureted engine, power/response/efficiency WILL be affected, that's another fact of life (and why I will be going EFI shortly..)

Be careful; with that thinking, the pavement may reach high temps, and I admit it does radiate in all directions, BUT the adjacent air never comes close, the air likely partially stratified to some degree in calm wind less but with some convection, but the car's movement likely homogenizes all the still air say in the 48?" directly above the pavement, bringing back the temps IMO pretty close to the measured Ambiant temps, of say 100F, that is then moving at the car speed plus any wind. under the car to cool the radiant heat contribution of the hot pavement.
I am not convinced in the big picture pavement temp is a significant factor regarding engine cooling, but it might be the straw that breaks the camel's back on maxed cooling systems.

 

[Moparfever65]

Another option to add cooling capacity not mentioned yet is to add external transmission and oil coolers. Not helpful for those wanting to keep the stock look of course. On my old Charger I disconnected the transmission lines from the radiator and ran a separate cooler. I noticed a considerable improvement on hot days.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Another option to add cooling capacity not mentioned yet is to add external transmission and oil coolers. Not helpful for those wanting to keep the stock look of course. On my old Charger I disconnected the transmission lines from the radiator and ran a separate cooler. I noticed a considerable improvement on hot days.

I did the same and also noticed improvement.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Lessons learned- timing your engine is everything. Cold case and Griffin make 2 row 1-1/4" tube cores that makes a big difference if your engine is modified like most are.

Lastly underwood temps are insane. On 100 plus days either drive with the hood off or don't drive at all. I have a fiberglass lift off and put trackspec vents in it and that helps exhaust the underwood temps.

 

[threewood]

Lessons learned- timing your engine is everything. Cold case and Griffin make 2 row 1-1/4" tube cores that makes a big difference if your engine is modified like most are.

Lastly underwood temps are insane. On 100 plus days either drive with the hood off or don't drive at all. I have a fiberglass lift off and put trackspec vents in it and that helps exhaust the underwood temps.

Pics of your installed vents? Sounds like a good idea.

 

[beanhead]

Lessons learned- timing your engine is everything. Cold case and Griffin make 2 row 1-1/4" tube cores that makes a big difference if your engine is modified like most are.

Lastly underwood temps are insane. On 100 plus days either drive with the hood off or don't drive at all. I have a fiberglass lift off and put trackspec vents in it and that helps exhaust the underwood temps.

Good thermal barrier-coated headers help with those underhood temps too.
When I first made the switch to TTIs years ago I couldn't believe the difference.
BTW nice to see you're still around dude!

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Good thermal barrier-coated headers help with those underhood temps too.
When I first made the switch to TTIs years ago I couldn't believe the difference.
BTW nice to see you're still around dude!

I have no before and after comparison, but when I ordered my Schumacher tri-y's I ordered them ceramic coated. I'm glad I did.

 

[Geoff 2]

Often, improving cooling ability comes in 'baby' steps. You do 5 things that reduce temp by 3 degrees, there is 15 degrees saved. Examples: smaller pump pulley, seal the rad core to the bulkhead, use a shroud, seal the shroud to the core etc...
More here: www.stewartcomponents.com