68 Charger PT build thread

[benno440]

Hey Guys, i thought i would begin a build thread for my new 68 charger.
this will be a very long process, not in any rush, maybe 5-10 year build but going to do it right and exactly how i like it. i bought it for 11k 5 mins down the road from me, some guy had it stored in a shed for 15 years and had not touched a thing on it, 100% complete California car, 0 rust except some surface rust, needs all 4 qtr panels (fenders) replaced as they are bent beyond repair, quite possibly an old dukes car maybe as it also has beau and luke dukes signature on the rear fender.

CAR: Dodge Charger 2 Door Sports Hardtop
ENGINE: 318cid 2-bbl V8
TRANSMISSION: 3-Speed Automatic
TIRES: 7.35x14
BUILD DATE: January 04.
AXLE: 2.76 Rear Axle Ratio
INTERIOR: Charger Trim Grade, Vinyl Bucket Seats. Green Interior.
PAINT: Monotone Racing Green Metallic Paint.
OTHER: Racing Green Metallic Upper Door Frame Color.

MOLDINGS:
25: Drip Rail Mouldings
30: Body Belt Mouldings
78: Wheel Lip Mouldings

ABC OPTIONS:
A1: 26in Radiator
H1: Power Brakes
R1: AM Radio
S1: Air Conditioning
X1: Tinted Glass (all)
Y4: Green Vinyl Top

abc OPTIONS:
a6: Console
b4: Bucket Seats
h7: Fender or Hood Mounted Turn Signal Indicators
m6: Driver's Outside Remote Operated Mirror
I have slowly started stripping it and have made a deal to give all the stock items away for 4 new qtr panels (fenders) rear taillight panel and front and rear valance plus 2k so a good deal i think.

I have not set anything in stone yet but first plan is to replace the panels and get the body straight then i am going to cut the chassis and floor out and build myself a custom chassis similiar to a roadster shop chassis with modern IFS and 3 link rear, custom body work with flush mount glass, delete the front qtr glass and have full window, custom rear lights and lasercut and fabricate an aluminium grille. custom engine bay and custom all through, going to be a one of a kind all built by myself, heavily leaning towards a twin turbo all aluminum big block or hemi with a manual box.

below picture of a render which i like, stolen and will get my own done down the track, but similiar look, i like the aston martin gunmetal grey colour, with some matte colours for contrast, no chrome on this one.

will upload photos and progress as i go.
thanks for checking it out.

 

[moparnation74]

Sounds like a cool project! I like the rendering except for the side mirror and the rear RT emblem...Thing to keep in mind is the 68 charger style is iconic and major changes to the styling can be a grand slam or a complete failure...

I like the twin turbo idea as well....

 

[HYRDGOON]

Sign me up I'm along for the ride on this one!!!!

 

[watermelon]

your other charger was awesome. this one will be as well. will be watching.

enjoy the journey.


watermelon

 

[hunt2elk]

I'm on board as well Benno. Still can't believe you sold your blue one. That was a beautiful piece of iron.

 

[747mopar]

I'm liking the sounds of this except the 5-10 year part.... lazy Aussie!

Love the rendering except as Moparnation mentioned the RT Emblem, maybe a custom TT emblem for twin turbo.

 

[Budnicks]

Hey Benno where ya' been ?

sounds like a cool project I'll be checking back
& at least looking, checking progress form time to time...

cool rendering, kind of looks like the Pure Vision cars a little

here's the white B-Wedge car they built

Good luck & Happy Moparing

 

[benno440]

I'm liking the sounds of this except the 5-10 year part.... lazy Aussie!

Love the rendering except as Moparnation mentioned the RT Emblem, maybe a custom TT emblem for twin turbo.

i wish i could put it down to lazy, money permits this build

 

[benno440]

i wish i could put it down to lazy, money permits this build

the emblem is RS because roadster shop build, it wont have an rt badge on this one.

 

[benno440]

bit of an update, got the car 99% stripped, only rust i have found was a couple of pin holes in the lower rear window frame, happy days.
got my 4 new fenders, slow progress, but really enjoying myself again.

 

[benno440]

Couple of updated pics, time to start the body work over the next couple of weeks, looking for tips on replacing rear quarters please.
I am a boilermaker by trade but have never worked with such thin gauge metal, any tips appreciated.

my new amd front quarters, rear quarters, drivers door post and front valance has turned up, woohoo and my beautiful kids posing and getting ready to help, i hope haha

 

[benno440]

Made some progress today, got most of the rear quarters off, first one was a pain in the ***, but getting there, and got my new door jamb clamped on.
anyone know how to get rid of all the surface rust on the inner panels and inside the roof as i dont think a wire wheel will get into those tight spots?

 

[Lenny B]

I always use 2", 3" and heavy duty scotch-brite type sanding disks on a 90 degree hand grinder along with wire wheels in the crevices on the same grinder. I also use a sand blaster if need. To me, cleaning that stuff up is the absolute worst / least fun part of the restoration.
Another way, but it pretty expensive, is to have it chemically stripped and then E-coated. The company that does it in my area charges about $3,000 for the shell. I have more time than money so I always opt for my first solution.

Also, a buddy of mine mentioned to me a dustless blasting company that can strip it using just high pressured water. He told me for $200 he'd show up and strip the whole car in my driveway and it would only take him a few hours. For the price, I'm going to give him a shot when I restore my next one. After he's done I will still have to scuff everything with 80 grit for adhesion prior to applying Epoxy Primer.

 

[Stevearino]

It is at this stage of the build that most guys will brace the car up and send it out to be media blasted. Unless you detach the roof skin you will never get all of the rust out of the top side of the inner roof structure or for that matter the bottom side of the roof skin. Unless it is comprimised there is no real reason to re skin the roof. Also anytime the original sheet metal is in good shape I would try to keep it. While the repro sheet metal is very nice I found that it is much softer than the stuff Chrysler used. I had a hell of a time trying to beat out even small dents in the old sheet metal while just leaning on the door to buff my car out left an impression in the new door skins.

 

[benno440]

It is at this stage of the build that most guys will brace the car up and send it out to be media blasted. Unless you detach the roof skin you will never get all of the rust out of the top side of the inner roof structure or for that matter the bottom side of the roof skin. Unless it is comprimised there is no real reason to re skin the roof. Also anytime the original sheet metal is in good shape I would try to keep it. While the repro sheet metal is very nice I found that it is much softer than the stuff Chrysler used. I had a hell of a time trying to beat out even small dents in the old sheet metal while just leaning on the door to buff my car out left an impression in the new door skins.

roof is okay, should i remove roof skin to get in all under there? or only get to the places i can get to you reckon?

 

[benno440]

I always use 2", 3" and heavy duty scotch-brite type sanding disks on a 90 degree hand grinder along with wire wheels in the crevices on the same grinder. I also use a sand blaster if need. To me, cleaning that stuff up is the absolute worst / least fun part of the restoration.
Another way, but it pretty expensive, is to have it chemically stripped and then E-coated. The company that does it in my area charges about $3,000 for the shell. I have more time than money so I always opt for my first solution.

Also, a buddy of mine mentioned to me a dustless blasting company that can strip it using just high pressured water. He told me for $200 he'd show up and strip the whole car in my driveway and it would only take him a few hours. For the price, I'm going to give him a shot when I restore my next one. After he's done I will still have to scuff everything with 80 grit for adhesion prior to applying Epoxy Primer.

thanks, i would prefer to clean it all up myself instead of blasting and there is no company in reasonable distance that can dip it.

 

[benno440]

also should i be spraying rust kill or equivalent on the metal after wirebrushing or just primer?

 

[Stevearino]

roof is okay, should i remove roof skin to get in all under there? or only get to the places i can get to you reckon?[/QUOTE


Removing the roof is really unnecessary. The little bit of surface rust between the skin and the support structure that has accumulated over the last 50 years should not cause you any issues. It is mainly surface rust . Nothing structural. The only time you should remove the roof skin would be if it is visibly weak and compromised.

 

[Stevearino]

Also about the vent window delete. It is quite a challenging and costly modification. I have done this on my car and if you are curious about it I can go into a long winded tale about what I had to do.

 

[benno440]

View attachment 515121

Also about the vent window delete. It is quite a challenging and costly modification. I have done this on my car and if you are curious about it I can go into a long winded tale about what I had to do.

i am definetly all ears on the quarter window delete.

what do you think i should do to get rid of that surface rust in between the roof and structure?

by the way your car is amazing.