1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Might want to look at sectioning your bulge into that hood..
68 Coronet, slow project in Napa, CA
- Thread starter fesser
- Start date
Trunk looks like it might be a rusty mess but I have to dig down through a lot of rat crap and dirt to confirm. Trunk lid corners are rusty but I guess it is worth fixing these days. Both bumpers are pretty nice but the chrome is not great and will need replating. Has a lot of the AC parts my car doesn't, three speed wiper (I think), good ash tray. Probably more. Came from your neck of the woods.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Thief!!!
Congrats! good find.. I need another parts car like I need another hole in my head... If you don't need the rear bumper I might be interested, sent my core into to a plater fifteen years ago & he closed the shop... Should have grabbed another good core back then but didn't...
That's what I was thinking. What I think I will do first is see if I can form up some pieces to replace what the p.o. cut out of the bulge and if that part comes out okay, then swap the skin onto the bones of this hood. I might end up with a spare rear bumper. This one has dings but is not beyond fixing. The R/T was hit in the back and the fender is bent but the bumper doesn't look bent. May have been replaced. I think they are both candidates for straightening and plating. Not sure who is still in business in this area.
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1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Platers in California???? LOL...
Well, there's "The Bumper Boyz" AKA "Senor' Hacks Allot"...... Pass....
Sherm's Plating in Sacramento does great work, expect to pay $5000 per bumper.... Pass...
My plan is to either send them back to Tri-City.... Tennessee/Kentucky area... Or possibly Ogden Plating in Utah..
I've also considered buying Repops but I'd really prefer not to...
Didn't realize someone felt the need to cut on the original hood.... The fun never ends...
Well, there's "The Bumper Boyz" AKA "Senor' Hacks Allot"...... Pass....
Sherm's Plating in Sacramento does great work, expect to pay $5000 per bumper.... Pass...
My plan is to either send them back to Tri-City.... Tennessee/Kentucky area... Or possibly Ogden Plating in Utah..
I've also considered buying Repops but I'd really prefer not to...
Didn't realize someone felt the need to cut on the original hood.... The fun never ends...
Wasn't there a Stockton Plating? Guess they are gone. Saw ads for Bumper Boyz but don't know anything about them.
My hood....
Pictures don't do it justice. The cuts are wavy and cross in and out over the rolled area that would make the detent for the hockey sticks. Also starting to crack on the rear supporting piece that is left.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Damn.. What a shame... I'm sure it can be fixed butttttttttttt........
Yeah, there was Stockton Plating, Delta Plating, Stanislaus Plating, Modesto Plating.... And probably a couple dozen more....
But the California EPA has regulated & penalized plating shops relentlessly..
I knew the owners of Stanislaus plating, both the one who owned it from 1966 through 2000 & the one who owned it from 2000 till it closed in 2011..
And one of my close friends BIL owned Delta plating...
Fact is the BIL recommended the shop that wound up closing & keeping my bumper....
Yeah, there was Stockton Plating, Delta Plating, Stanislaus Plating, Modesto Plating.... And probably a couple dozen more....
But the California EPA has regulated & penalized plating shops relentlessly..
I knew the owners of Stanislaus plating, both the one who owned it from 1966 through 2000 & the one who owned it from 2000 till it closed in 2011..
And one of my close friends BIL owned Delta plating...
Fact is the BIL recommended the shop that wound up closing & keeping my bumper....
That is a lot of closed businesses. Hate to send parts out of state, but I guess that is getting to be the only option.
Jesse6869
Well-Known Member
I used Sherms 2 bumpers , bumperets front and rear, tail light trim for 69 charger. I cut the bumpers (french them in 1/4“) and had the bold holes welded up and added studs and they straitened the bumpers also made me pick them up and try on my car before chroming. Couldn’t ask for better service 4000k but they look so good and there local.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
How long ago was that? 4K from Sherms is a bargain.. Then again Charger bumpers are 1/3 the size of Coronet bumpers... My buddy with a Chrysler 57 300C paid Sherms 10K back in 2006 just for his bumpers...
I am in a different league than a lot of you gentlemen when it comes to this car and my budget. Even at 4k I would seriously have to give it a lot of thought (and probably sell off some stuff) before I would pull the trigger on that. 10k is a solid "No". I don't have the skills, the budget, or the burning desire to build a show car. I am shooting for very nice driver quality. I am hoping to keep paint and body under 10k (which might be a crazy, delusional hope at that).
Jesse6869
Well-Known Member
This was 2 years ago I was dealing with the owners. And they explained to me that I should let them clean the back side and straighten them before I had cut them but they got them rite. They did me rite, it’s worth calling them.
You can do it, just do everything that you can yourself. Do all the sanding and dissassembly, body work, before you take it to the painter, so they can final sand it and spray it. Buy all the paint yourself, and save the mark up (and the BS about "$5000 per gallon paint). Use all the original parts that you have, straigthten them out yourself, and shine them up. Look for used parts that are not perfect, but good enough for a driver. A few flaws are like "battle scars" of a 50+ year old car. Enjoy the car for what it is. It takes all the fun out of it when you spend too much money. After all, they are just "toys" now. You should be able to "restore" the whole car for 10k.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
I've dealt with them a few times on projects, mostly exotic 50's & 60's European stuff... They are good people, do high quality work just kinda pricy for a cheapskate like me..
It wasn't pretty but I got the K-member out and the front end dollies temporarily mounted. I say temporarily because the holes in the dollies do not account for the shoulder on the stock bolts that were used to attach the K-frame to the rail. They go tight but the bolts head is not seated flush on the metal. I considered opening the hole, but I am not certain that the bolt wouldn't have bottoming issues at the frame rail. Either way, I will just pick up four bolts tomorrow (without the wide shoulder)
The cheapie trans jack didn't really like the balance point of the whole K member assembly, but it did allow me to get the bolts out and it controlled the decent to the ground fairly well.
Can't wait to get the back dollies under there so I can spin the car around when I get bored.
I may have to buy some new bump stops ...
The cheapie trans jack didn't really like the balance point of the whole K member assembly, but it did allow me to get the bolts out and it controlled the decent to the ground fairly well.
Can't wait to get the back dollies under there so I can spin the car around when I get bored.
I may have to buy some new bump stops ...
Since I need to rebuild the front suspension, and want to do the rear suspension too, I have a question. Is there one good source for all the bushings, torsion bars, and springs? If not, does anyone care to recommend any particular company for the major stuff. I am looking for a firm ride, but don't necessarily want neoprene everything. I have been dissatisfied with some hard bushings that replaced rubber bushings in the past on other vehicles. But since Mopar parts are new to me (again) I would like to hear from people who have been where I am now. Thanks.
Back wheels are on. I won't bore anyone with the details of how I got it done, but I am pretty sure it was not the right way.
On a sort of interesting note, one of the air shocks still had pressure, and the Joe Dirt shackles appear to be name brand...
On a sort of interesting note, one of the air shocks still had pressure, and the Joe Dirt shackles appear to be name brand...
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