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68 GTX from 440 to 426 hemi question

Dave

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I am in the very early stages of building a 68 GTX with a 426 hemi. What I needed to know is are there any differences to the frame ie Torque boxes etc that I will have to maodify? I do have he motor mounts lined up so that I can use the same K frame. Appeciate any suggestions .
Many THANKS
Dave Shaw
 
you dont have to put the torq boxes or frame connector in but I would suggest you do .
that hemi will twist the car and the factor put those torq boxes in for a reason , and everyone with big motors now put the frame connectors in .


convertibles came with torq boxes also mine where beat, so i replaced mine and put in square tube frame connectors also . now it is a solid almost full frmed car .

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When you put the hemi into your car there ar emany things to look into.

1. Power Brake booster 8 inch dual booster, Schumacer motor mount conversions. 960 torsion bars, skid plate, torque bar, auto rust technicans for torque boxes and frame tie, leaf springs, dana 60 a must if you use a stick 8 3/4 if automatic. stamped steel valve covers for added clearance on passenger side. You can also cut the shock tower on passenger side and reverse so shock tower is in wheel wheel, blower motor for heater in engine compartment. Bushing reinforcements on upper control arms. Manual Steer ing versus power, different alternator bracket than wedge. THe Motor is a monster weight wise. Mount it to K member and install from under the car. If you use Roller cam and its going to be solid lifters get smith brothers push rods and make sure you oil thru push rods, with oiled push rods and lifters. these motors do not like to idle for long very heavy mass. I recommend 727 auto and you will drive an engine that loves lots of gas and it gets really interesting the faster it goes. This is not a drag engine unless you have lots of money. It is an endurance engine. Keep it simle dual carbs look great but single runs better. Hope this helps
 
Many Thanks

Really appreciate all the advice and I will do it right as they say. I'm sure I will have more questions as the project comes along so will be back for more HELP
Thank you all
Dave
 
When you put the hemi into your car there ar emany things to look into.

1. Power Brake booster 8 inch dual booster, Schumacer motor mount conversions. 960 torsion bars, skid plate, torque bar, auto rust technicans for torque boxes and frame tie, leaf springs, dana 60 a must if you use a stick 8 3/4 if automatic. stamped steel valve covers for added clearance on passenger side. You can also cut the shock tower on passenger side and reverse so shock tower is in wheel wheel, blower motor for heater in engine compartment. Bushing reinforcements on upper control arms. Manual Steer ing versus power, different alternator bracket than wedge. THe Motor is a monster weight wise. Mount it to K member and install from under the car. If you use Roller cam and its going to be solid lifters get smith brothers push rods and make sure you oil thru push rods, with oiled push rods and lifters. these motors do not like to idle for long very heavy mass. I recommend 727 auto and you will drive an engine that loves lots of gas and it gets really interesting the faster it goes. This is not a drag engine unless you have lots of money. It is an endurance engine. Keep it simle dual carbs look great but single runs better. Hope this helps


Why would you do that? The only ars that ever had a problem with clearence there were the 64/65 fatory cars and that is how they remedied it. In 1966 Cchrysler changed the engine comparment design to acomodate the Hemi and there should be no reason to do what you are taking about.

I would NEVER run a single 4 barrel on a Hemi. For me, one of the enticing things about a Hemi is the dual quads.
 
I have Indy heads and valve covers on the hemi in my '69 roadrunner with Schumacher motor mounts. I probably would have had to do something with the right shock tower if it I didn't have the new style right side Indy valve cover that is cut back to clear the shock tower. As it was I did have to cut the threaded rod from the shock back about an inch. Note that Indy heads are really big, I can't hook up my heater hoses for example, because there is not enough clearance.

Having said this, if you are using stock Mopar heads or Stage V heads and stamped steel valve covers you should have no problems.
 
Why would you do that? The only ars that ever had a problem with clearence there were the 64/65 fatory cars and that is how they remedied it. In 1966 Cchrysler changed the engine comparment design to acomodate the Hemi and there should be no reason to do what you are taking about.

I would NEVER run a single 4 barrel on a Hemi. For me, one of the enticing things about a Hemi is the dual quads.


Agreed!:yes: and always use the shine "Chrome dome" or orange oval air cleaner (depends) I'm a Charger guy and haven't paid much attention to other Hemi air cleaners.

Here's more: Use K&N oil bath air filters, paper will clog and is restrictive, Use E3 Diamond Fires in lieu of traditional plugs. This should halp performance in that the engine can breathe a lot better.
 
426 hemi charger run what ever you want, dual quad carters are not very good period. A single Holley on a Indy single plane intake will allow the engine to r"run much better. Or simply use a dual plane intake. YOu do not show alot of knowledge about hemis otherwise you would never see the your statement. Modern hemi's version 2 run cam shafts with considerably more lift and over lap then the first hemi's i came acroos in the early 70's when mopar used purple shaft type grinds. turning the shock tower inside allows people to use wider cast aluminum valve covers that do not tolerate any close side tolerancecs with bigger cams and close to the side inner fenders.
 
426 hemi charger run what ever you want, dual quad carters are not very good period. A single Holley on a Indy single plane intake will allow the engine to r"run much better. Or simply use a dual plane intake. YOu do not show alot of knowledge about hemis otherwise you would never see the your statement. Modern hemi's version 2 run cam shafts with considerably more lift and over lap then the first hemi's i came acroos in the early 70's when mopar used purple shaft type grinds. turning the shock tower inside allows people to use wider cast aluminum valve covers that do not tolerate any close side tolerancecs with bigger cams and close to the side inner fenders.



Actually, I believe you are responding primarily to MY comments.

The ASSUMPTION was that the original poster was asking about stock type heads and valve covers and as I said require no engine compartment mods as the after market valve covers MIGHT.

MY comments about the dual quads is a preference. For ME it defines a 426 Hemi car under the hood look.

BTW, my stock intake and carbs with its NHRA stock class blueprinted engine car will run low 11's high 10s with them so there really isn't much wrong with the set up.

This site is primarily chat for stock type (at least appearing vehicles including engine compartments) cars. Not that there is anything wrong with modified cars, it is just that unless someone specifically asks about modified parts, items, we ASSUME they are referring to stock stuff.
 
Even though me and 696pack are not friends I still agree with him on the definition of a 426 Hemi engine

Snake oil true, I do not know much about 426 Hemis. I will bring up the point that they were good enough to smoke bowties and ovals and even other penastars back in the day from the factory. If the factory setup is good enough to do that then it is good enough for me.

BTW the name I use is associated with a model car, not the real thing.
 
Ok just want you to understand I have been around Hemi's since 1970. These engines run far better on 1 carb then 2. Carters did not perform well then nor do they now. A big car like a coronet, charger or Road runner using a single Holley, or even a Rochester Spread bore will out perform any carter ever made. If you want a really neat carb try a quick fuel.

If you want to talk about duel plane intakes then look at the base plate of a duel plane. The current set up I have now, has a 1/2 inch notch in the center of the duel plane to promote better off idle distribution. Get yourself an acurrate Infrared temp meter and warm up your engine. recoprd the temprature at each exhaust port and look for a variation of no more then3-5 percent usually 600f. this will give you some idea of fuel distribution. If you want to get exotic look at the tip of your spark plugs and determine if you can see any residual aluminum on the insulator "Equals excess Knock"". I learned this from listening to many good tuners over the years. Another example of a fantastic design was the Mopar 6 pack. Used on heavy cars this vacum operated system gave better fuel milage and would kick the crap out of any chevrolet tri power. If you want a great drag race engine Wedges are far better then hemi's. THe hemi was and still is an endurance motor for hi speed "Nascar". I have had my but kicked my well assembled 440 wedges.

No Car ever was as well designed as a Mopar
 
This is just my opinion and my suggestion. I get your point and that's fine too. So what if Carters don't perform, times have changed, to where most of us want a factory style car, to drive or show, not the stoplight shootout machine with a 17 year old kid in its bench seat. Present party excluded, ahem.

I'm just curious as to how Mopars were inferior. Obviously the bodys sucked, but the drivetrains are durable and will outlast the energizer bunny. I saw a 1969 GTX that was pulled from a barn, fresh gas, plugs, points and new battery, and it ran. This think sounded like it would stall at any minute but it did a burn out and hauled *** up and down the main drag.
 
Anyone who says Carters don't perform don't know SQUAT about them. I've owned plenty, and the only Holleys they didn't out perform were my Six Pack. And checking your plugs ins't "exotic". That has been described in manuals for 50 years. And to really read what they are telling you, you have to read them hot. As in make a run then pull them and read them before they cool.

And that's DUAL....not duel
 
I believe Carters perform, what I meant to say is that they do when tuned and rebuilt properly. I have faith in Carters I'm just not sure if snakeoil has.
 
Yup. Read the plugs HOT. Also, when running a Six Pack (which are jetted a bit lean for a 440) it's a good idea to take it out of the highway, make a lil blast/cruise/whatever, then pull over quickly. And with it still running take a look at your manifolds. Jetted stock you'll think you can see through them (glowing red).

scary
 
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