Gpuller
Well-Known Member
I had a control box go bad a year ago. Stuck a parts store box on to get me by. Worked OK if I never reved past 3000 RPM. LOL Ran like turd, but it got me home.
69 gtx
- Thread starter 69 GTX
- Start date
I had a control box go bad a year ago. Stuck a parts store box on to get me by. Worked OK if I never reved past 3000 RPM. LOL Ran like turd, but it got me home.
I have an old orange box from the 90's for a spare. But like you said it got you home instead of being stranded. Was your warranty still good on it?
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
Warranty on the parts store box? Never checked. Had a chrome box at home, swapped it out as soon as I got home. Parts store box went back in the trunk as a spare.
I was speaking of your rev a nator box
Got the ProMax fuel lines on. Will be much easier now to work on!
Go t he correct AC bracket, lines up good & looks like it will clear the A12 air cleaner base.
Modified the spring return bracket to work with the AC bracket hardware.
Got the torque link in. Used a swaybar bushing on the bottom.
Had to heat and bend the drivers side exhaust to get it up close to floor pan to match pass. side. Those 3" pipes look big under the car! Welded in the O2 bungs for the LM-2.
Sprayed on some cold galvanized over the welds & heated area.
H pipe clears the Gear Vender nicely.
O2 sensors installed. Make sure to allow enough clearance for removal.
I probably could of got more done if the supervisor wasn't spending time on my creeper. He was super good, he seemed to know when I needed a break.
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
I dont have a Rev A Nator. It's on my list.
Yes it is. You can kinda see it in the O2 sensor picture, but I will get a better one for you. TTI 1 7/8 headers & 3" H pipe full exhaust. FYI If your putting aftermarket (stock tips) on it will be helpful to remove the tailpipe hangers before you start. If you plan on using the tailpipes as is you will need to start with putting the tailpipes in first due to the hanger direction. Kinda *** backwards to normal thinking. Also let the rearend hang to give yourself more working room with the tail pipes. Even with that I had to cut .5" off the tail pipe at the muffler end to get it to slide in.
Derwud
Well-Known Member
Great looking dog... Mine won't even come in the garage when I am working...
747mopar
Well-Known Member
Progress is looking great. Everything looks top notch and I'm curious to hear what you think about the overdrive. I know where your coming from with the dog, tried bringing mine to the garage a few times but every time I got on the creeper he'd lay on top of me and lick my face haha. Good looking pooch.
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
X2. Looks great. GV OD is awesome, you'll love it!
Just an FYI, they make Bright Galv to better match your pipes. Your local welding supply should carry it.
Last edited:
Thanks Hrunner, I'll see if I can get some. It will look good on my window track pieces too!
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
I have Hookers on my car, they have a pretty long tubes. Not much room from the end of the header to the torsion bar cutout. When I put the universal Summit 3" x pipe on I had to dimple the drivers side pipe to get it to clear. I couldn't imagine trying to put TTI exhaust on with out their headers. A person would have to get real creative with an adapter.
You can see the left collector flange in the O2 picture, I'd say about 6" from flange to crossmember. I'll measure & get some pictures for you tonight.
G here are some more pictures
About 4" from flange to front of crossmember.
A little fuzzy but you can see the tubes are towards the outside of the clearance spots. Headers measured 18.5center to center at collector flanges. and tubes measured 17.25 center to center @ the front of the crossmember.
Pass. side clearance is about .75
drivers side about .375
I think if it weren't for the gear vendor I could have made my own x pipe and hit the clearance areas in the crossmember dead center.
Hope this helps any ?s you have.
About 4" from flange to front of crossmember.
A little fuzzy but you can see the tubes are towards the outside of the clearance spots. Headers measured 18.5center to center at collector flanges. and tubes measured 17.25 center to center @ the front of the crossmember.
Pass. side clearance is about .75
drivers side about .375
I think if it weren't for the gear vendor I could have made my own x pipe and hit the clearance areas in the crossmember dead center.
Hope this helps any ?s you have.
Gpuller
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the pics! It looks like the TTI headers are tipped in at the ends to start the transition to the torsion bar cut outs. My Hookers are just straight. When you start working with 3" tube it takes up a lot of room!
My universal Summit 3" X pipe. Would have liked to get it tucked up closer to the crossmember.
My universal Summit 3" X pipe. Would have liked to get it tucked up closer to the crossmember.
Looks like your pass. side fits better than drivers side, just like mine. True the headers are pointed inward a little. I have Trick flow heads, I doubt that makes much difference, but you never know.
It may also be the collectors angled in a little too.
G, I see you have a O2 sensor also, what does it go to?
Similar threads
- Locked
