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69 gtx

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I used some rope sealant around the vent block off plate and screw holes to make sure it doesn't leak. Do this before final install of AC box.
 
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As you can see I got a surprise when I test fitted the AC line to the fitting. So I tried the 90 end to see if it would clear. It did but I would not be able to get the valve cover off. So I had originally bought some DC covers so I threw them on, BINGO. They have just enough taper on the ends to get them off with the 90. I may see if a 45 will clear to make the routings better. FYI the Trick flows are about .75 taller and the valve cover added to that.
 
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I got tired of waiting on my paint guy so I went to O'rielys and bought some urethane black paint with all the reducers, catalyst , & cleaner. Stopped by Harbor freight and picked up a small touch up & HVLP small paint gun. Now I can paint brackets as needed!
 
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BTW these are for sale. I'll be offering my stuff on my link a couple days before I put them on the for sale thread. The one cover had to be clearance for my distributor. It did not leak on the dyno.
 
I bought this to spray my rubber dipped clamps after painting was 10$
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It worked OK but going to look for something else. It doesn't build up very well and they say
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4 hours between coats.

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Back to working on pulleys now that I have all the brackets! Need to make some spacers for the alt. then check to see how square and aligned everything is. Also got some rough #s for belt lengths so I'll but some for fit up. With the aftermarket AC & waterpump tensioner nothing will be OEM except maybe the PS.
 
It worked OK but going to look for something else. It doesn't build up very well and they sayView attachment 398765 4 hours between coats.

Get the plastidip in a container, and something large enough to dip in if the can is too small. Recoat in 30 minutes and the brackets I did look factory. I even did a nose bridge for som sunglasses that came out great.
 
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I got my radio back from Wards yesterday. Very pleased with the turn around time. Just like they promised 2-3 weeks. Only thing I could see that I didn't care for was the fuse location. I will remove it and put a longer wire loop in the harness so that if I need to replace it I will be able to access it more easily. Other than that 100% happy. I need to read through the printed instruction once to see how it operates but looks pretty user friendly.
 
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Put some more sound deadener down for under buckets and rear floor boards. This brand was cheaper than dynamat foil was a little heavier, maybe for more thermal protection. Just as easy to install. Then put the final layer over the top and made sure all the bolt holes were punched through.
 
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Got the holes drilled for the GTX emblems, thanks to 3wood for the measurement's! need to paint the holes before final install to seal the paint at the holes.
 
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Spent most of the day getting all the pulleys squared up. Used a electronic protractor to get the vertical measurements all with in .1 of a degree and then used straight edges to get everything square horizontally with the crank pulley. I had to put a .125 spacer behind the crank pulley, I think the aftermarket dampener was the culprit. But now everything is squared up and ready for belts. Maybe I can get the radiator in for the last time this coming weekend!
 
You are moving right along. I need to kick it in gear if I want to try to get close to catching up. Your car is looking great.
 
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I'm just trying to keep up with you!!!!
 
I need to decide if I want to black out the radiator support quickly before I get to far to do it. What's everyones thoughts. I looked at Threewoods GTX and I could definitely see the support and the radiator. Tinking it needs to get the blackout treatment....
 
I need to decide if I want to black out the radiator support quickly before I get to far to do it. What's everyones thoughts. I looked at Threewoods GTX and I could definitely see the support and the radiator. Tinking it needs to get the blackout treatment....

I was thinking about doing the same thing, but it didn't look like mine was blacked out originally. Since I'm putting in an aluminum rad, I don't think blacking it out will make it look better. I find late 60's mopars look better blacked out though.
 
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