'69 road runner......like I needed another!

[gdrill]

Thank you Sir. I actually considered repainting it but I decided against it.......so far. The engine is destined to eventually be in my '66, so that is why it is turquoise. Maybe by the time I finish cleaning up the bay I will have changed my mind!

 

[gdrill]

Well, it's clean enough for now. I'll see if the weather will cooperate so I can push it outside and rinse it down. Tomorrow is roadtrip day so I will ponder painting the engine while we're driving!

 

[gdrill]

I built a stand out of 2X6 to store my engine on. I like it. Now I need about 3 more! It sits on one of my wheel dollies. Perfect for moving around and keeping out of the way. It's 8 1/4" inside and needs a notch for the dipstick tube area.

 

[gdrill]

I have learned today that my replacement engine isn't drilled far enough for the input shaft. I will have to cut it. Then I am going to use the newer style bearing from manual transmission magnum engines.

 

[gdrill]

Ok, I am delaying cutting my input shaft, as you all can understand. If it was any old trans I would have no problem. But with it being the original I am hesitant to snip it off. It needs 7/16" cut in order to fit the 70 block's pilot hole. I have googled this and seen many responses. I am considering drilling the crank on the engine to allow room for the input shaft to enter. I am confident in my abilities and tools. But I am not sure if there is anything I should be concerned about. Like and unknown oil gallery. I know if it was apart I could take it to a machine shop and have it drilled but would still have no better idea about the consequence. So here is my question. Is there any reason the '70 crank would not be able to be drilled to the same depth as my '69 without worry?

 

[gdrill]

Done deal. I made a call to a friend and he said I would be fine. So, I started with a 3/16 and ended with a 7/8. There is a lot of sizes between those two. I went up one size at a time. I measured the 69 depth and it is 2 1/4" deep by my tape. I drilled my '70 to 2 3/8". This process took me a couple hours but was well worth it. I am very happy that I won't have to cut the input shaft of the transmission.

 

[gdrill]

I decided to leave the engine turquoise. I think it will look fine, and it will lead into the discussion of the original engine as well! I installed the intake and painted it to match. It is an Edelbrock dp4b. The carb is Eddy as well, so the air cleaner suits it. The valve covers are some I refinished a while back. I want them over the Mopar Performance as they are not so tall. A friend dropped of a clutch aligning tool so I will get at that right away.

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

nice combo looks sweet

 

[gdrill]

Well, due to poor casting quality, my passenger head has a bow to it all along the lower edge from front to back. It is at least 1/16" - 1/8" of a hump. When I put the cast covers on the was a huge gap at each end. I don't want to take the chance the gasket will flex enough because I'm afraid I'll crack the cast. So it's either these chrome covers or the stock ones. I haven't fully committed yet. Also with the Edelbrock being taller the throttle cable mount won't work. I have one off of a 77 440 that is taller and will suffice.

 

[gdrill]

Closer..........

 

[gdrill]

Been a while. I picked up some exhaust stuff today. I have an exhaust system I got a while back. It was on a 70 Coronet but it has the doughnut style gasket. I will make it fit the runner. It appears to need to be shortened about an inch to make the axle clearance right. The parts I picked up are 2 1/4" expanded at one end and 2 flanges. I decided to make my own flange mounts from them. The guy at the shop suggested welding them solid, but that would mean it would have to be perfect with no tolerance. This way the flanges swivel for ease of install. I cut them just at the beginning of the expansion and pounded them over to mate against the gasket. I think they will work just fine.

 

[Speedbird]

Ok, I am delaying cutting my input shaft, as you all can understand. If it was any old trans I would have no problem. But with it being the original I am hesitant to snip it off. It needs 7/16" cut in order to fit the 70 block's pilot hole. I have googled this and seen many responses. I am considering drilling the crank on the engine to allow room for the input shaft to enter. I am confident in my abilities and tools. But I am not sure if there is anything I should be concerned about. Like and unknown oil gallery. I know if it was apart I could take it to a machine shop and have it drilled but would still have no better idea about the consequence. So here is my question. Is there any reason the '70 crank would not be able to be drilled to the same depth as my '69 without worry?

1,Your distributor cap is not stock.
Are you going to use an "HEI ignition"? Which one?

2, Are you saying the a 70 crank engine would be different than a 69?
I just had a 69 rebuilt for my 69 Road Runner. But the engine did not come with the car.
I think it was drilled but not reamed. It may have come out of an automatic car.
So I'm trusting the re- builder prepared the hole correctly.
They did install the standard pilot bushing I gave them with the engine.

3. This is how I prepared an automatic 440 to go into a four speed car.
I only needed to enlarge and deepen the hole for the fourspeed.
I did not have to be precise since I used a register bearing for that car.
I used the existing hole as a guide for welding an appropriate drill bit sized jig.

 

[moparnation74]

Sniping the input shaft has NO bearing on originality. Once in the car, who knows? Once taken out, call brewers and get a replacement.

I did the same to the four speed in my X and that cat is matching numbers.

 

[gdrill]

View attachment 384834


1,Your distributor cap is not stock.
Are you going to use an "HEI ignition"? Which one?

2, Are you saying the a 70 crank engine would be different than a 69?
I just had a 69 rebuilt for my 69 Road Runner. But the engine did not come with the car.
I think it was drilled but not reamed. It may have come out of an automatic car.
So I'm trusting the re- builder prepared the hole correctly.
They did install the standard pilot bushing I gave them with the engine.

3. This is how I prepared an automatic 440 to go into a four speed car.
I only needed to enlarge and deepen the hole for the fourspeed.
I did not have to be precise since I used a register bearing for that car.
I used the existing hole as a guide for welding an appropriate drill bit sized jig.

My distributor is one of the ones from Whites Performance like this:

http://shop.whiteperformance.com/Re...-Dodge-MOPAR-440-426-RED-WPM-8202-RR-14-R.htm

The 70 vs 69 was not my problem. The 70 engine was from an auto car so it was not drilled for the shaft. They apparently put a pilot hole in them but don't finish machining if it was not going to be standard trans mate. I didn't want to cut my input off so I took the time to drill out the crank.

I actually enjoy doing things the "harder way", as it usually teaches me something or helps with my skills or patience!

Thanks for looking in guys!

 

[Speedbird]

My distributor is one of the ones from Whites Performance like this:

http://shop.whiteperformance.com/Re...-Dodge-MOPAR-440-426-RED-WPM-8202-RR-14-R.htm

The 70 vs 69 was not my problem. The 70 engine was from an auto car so it was not drilled for the shaft. They apparently put a pilot hole in them but don't finish machining if it was not going to be standard trans mate. I didn't want to cut my input off so I took the time to drill out the crank.

I actually enjoy doing things the "harder way", as it usually teaches me something or helps with my skills or patience!

Thanks for looking in guys!

The diagram for white performance shows an "E" coil.
Is that what you are going to run?
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/chevy-style-hei-on-318.364050/

 

[gdrill]

No, this one came with a blaster 2. The 383 kit doesn't even show up on their site now. But I phoned them this morning with some questions and he said they may have special ordered it. I don't recall any issues when ordering it. I have yet to get it running. I'm actually heading to the store right now for plug wires. I have to buy a set and fit them to length.

 

[gdrill]

Well the exhaust is complete. The tips that are on it aren't proper, but that's OK for now. This afternoon I built plug wires. Not far from firing it up now.

 

[moparnation74]

Fire that bird up! Nice.....

 

[gdrill]

Here is what it looks like underneath. I got this from a guy who had it on a 70 Coronet. It needed to be shortened 2 1/2" on the drivers side but the pass was fine. Maybe the Hipo manifold outlet is located slightly different than the stockers. I played with the plug wires but I am waiting for a friend to bring a drive over to prime the oil through the engine. We'll do that tomorrow and hopefully she fires right up. Not sure what it's going to sound like, but running will be a good sound no matter what!

 

[moparjohnny]

Here is what it looks like underneath. I got this from a guy who had it on a 70 Coronet. It needed to be shortened 2 1/2" on the drivers side but the pass was fine. Maybe the Hipo manifold outlet is located slightly different than the stockers. I played with the plug wires but I am waiting for a friend to bring a drive over to prime the oil through the engine. We'll do that tomorrow and hopefully she fires right up. Not sure what it's going to sound like, but running will be a good sound no matter what!

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View attachment 385302

another great job,you have done a great job with car.keep on moparing.