69 Roadrunner goes completely dead intemittently. HELP!!!

[wantahemi]

OKay, so I have a 69 RR with a 440 6 pack. Its all stock. No MSD ignition, still running ballast resistor and all electronics that came on a 69. Unmolested and staying that way. Its really just a cruiser. Here are the symptoms I have noted, any help from the Mopar tech force is greatly appreciated!!!!

Have drive 300 miles in last two weeks, no issues with anything. Started every time, drives cool, shifts fine, lights work, blinkers work, nothing noteworthy.

Took it out for early pm cruise and after a 30 mile trip, turned it off and would not restart. Figured something stupid, shifted to neutral (no difference), jiggled while in park ( no difference). tried key a bunch of times, (no difference). Finally after about 2 minutes of this, the damn thing starts.....

Literally 500 feet later, dies in flight. I am talking everything. Lights, engine, everything. Of course now I am blocking the freeway entrance ramp in a Black 69 RR with all black clothes. Tried everything. Finally started pushing car to gas station a 100 feet away and the damn thing starts. Drive it 2 miles home, turn it off and it cranks right back up.

Next morning, check battery connections (negative loose) Tightened all battery connections and hold down. Verified that ground to motor on front and back are tight (both were ok, but snugged them to be safe). Really thought the terminals were the issue. Anyway, checked connection, everything seemed ok. Started right up. Took for a 45 minute ride, no issues.

Came home, turned car off and the damn thing wont restart. After about 10 minutes, and checking connections again, it starts.

2 hours later, starts right up. Went cruising for an hour, pulled in to get gas, filled tank. Got back in car, nothing. No lights, no crank, nothing.

Waited 5 minutes, started right up. Finally on way home, it got to be dusk. When I flipped headlights on, the car cut completely off for a split second, but came back before dying. Tried it several times and it died intermittently at least two other times. Have no idea what the headlight switch has to do with killing the entire car, but its really the only clue I have.

Anyone have a clue what or where to start. I checked battery today. Was at 13.12VDC static. 14.33 VDC running and charging. Output was 27 amps. Tested continuity to fusible link, tested OK (Do these things fail partially?) I thought they were designed to fail?

Ok, well nothing pisses me off more that having a bad *** ride to drive and it letting me down. Primarily, I am worried that on a dark night, an X9 roadrunner gets smashed from behind because no lights. Just want to enjoy my car before I am knee deep in snow again.

Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Wantahemi

 

[moperformance]

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Jump out the ammeter. you can temporarily join the two wires together on one lug to bypass the meter temporarily. If it does it again it ain't that. I had an ammeter does this to me and it drove me nuts until I jumped it out.
Good Luck

 

[wantahemi]

I will give it a shot in the morning. Just seems weird to happen with headlights. I guess the amp draw could be the issue. Its almost like a resettable circuit breaker......

 

[monaco66coupe]

My 69' Coronet had a similar problem years ago. The quick disconnect behind the Ignition switch wasn't tight, and had a broken hot lead. With no notice, the car would stop, no power anywhere. When it does it again, try to jump the starter relay with a screwdriver. That positive cable going to the starter is separate from the car itself. Ground to the engine, hot to the starter, relay in the middle. at least isolate the problem. If it cranks, your problem is between the relay and the cowling quick disconnect, and beyond. I am worried as the previous post that if your headlight switch aggravates the problem, your amp gauge is shorting out. Don't drive it anymore until you remove the dash and look it over. NO FIRES ALLOWED!!! BAD

 

[wantahemi]

I agree completely, last thing I want is my car to be onfire on the side of the road. Oh I would be crushed. So for me, it going to be a tear down until I figure it out. Can I ask you questions as I proceed? Any tips for pulling the dash cleanly? This car is mint and don't want to damage anything. Thanks. Al

 

[monaco66coupe]

Unplug battery, unbolt steering column from dash and lower it down as far as you can. Patiently un hook the switches, light connections, speedo cable, and keep track from left to right, or whatever, make a mental note if this the first time you have messed with it. Don't cut anything. You can get to the right side of the cluster by removing the radio and ashtray. Once all the screws are out, you can rotate the cluster toward you, and gently lift it out. It is a bit of a pain, as the steering wheel is in your lap. But you don't have to remove the column to do this. Then get back here and tell us what you see.
Good luck!

 

[moperformance]

you don't have to pull the dash. crawl under, back to the floor.hang your legs on the door with the seat all of the way back and look up when your head is as close to the firewall as possible.
there are two 3/8" nuts on the ammeter disconnect one side and put it ontop of the other post and if there's enough threads sticking up secure it with the nut you took off the other side.
good luck!

 

[D575]

Check the bulkhead connection , If I remember right, it's the second from the right, on the top row.

 

[wantahemi]

Thanks, I will start with the meter and see what I find. Plus I'll grab some pics of wiring under hood just so you can see if anything obvious pops out.

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[sleepar]

Check and double check all the wireing and grounds but UN hook the battery first. If what ever made it dead comes completely off then you may have a really bad fire or at least more problems you don't need.... could also be a bad ignition switch.... Or fuse link.... don't be in a hurry to fix it you may have many problems it's rarely just one thing...

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From their pics it looks like the original wires.... I would get a complete engine and body harness made or bought from a company and 're wire the entire car.... a car that nice deserves some new wires.... so it doesn't torch over a few hundred in wires it well over due for headlights to tail lights.

 

[wantahemi]

I Think from here on out its wire by wire, connection by connection and look for the obvious. Anything marginal will get replaced. Want the car not a check from insurance company. Will update after some research. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[monaco66coupe]

Look at the black connectors, if they are shorted, they will be melted. Headlight switch, Ignition, alternator gauge. Unplug the three connectors on the firewall, and Inspect the junction coming from the Dash harness plugged into the firewall. The point where the three plug into the junction can also show signs a short.

 

[Jason69 RR]

Has the same issues with my 69RR 440 6Pk, traced it back to the wiring block at the firewall, right back to the ignition switch, wiring just old, and tired.... we bypassed the really bad one, and are good to go. I will def do a wiring harness in the winter. Gives me an excuse to play with my bird...... wait.... the doesn't sound right.... Cheers, good luck!

 

[WP29440SE]

^^^ definitely a fire waiting to happen

 

[wantahemi]

All great advice. Will definitely check the bulkhead connectors. Anyone use dielectric grease on connectors? Looking at a complete rewire setup. Thinking better to err on side of caution rather than watch it go to salvage yard after burned up. Amazing how much everyone knows. Awesome community. Thanks

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[sleepar]

You want to drill out the bulk head pins and run the wires through it and use bullet connectors on the dash side of the connections and seal up the holes with black rtv in the voids to seal it so it looks original but loose the blade connectors all together there.... check out the mad electrical upgrades and the past posts by Nacho member on here who has the low down on mopar electrical.
UN hook the battery and remove it from the car yesterday..... and good luck

 

[wedge69]

I had the same thing on my 69 RR. I found it to be the Hot main lead going into the fireWall bulk head jungtion. It was loseing contact when it got hot. then rehook ? It was green and melted alittle on the inside. This wire feeds ALL of the inside of the car and will shut you down in your tracks ! Sounds just like mine and your at the start of it so at least it didn't melt out real bad YET. Also you can unhook you (-) batt terminal and put a test lite from the Batt to you cable . Turn the key on and you will see the lite on. Wiggle the conections at the fire wall and it the lite go's out BINGGO ! This way you won't get a dead short or fire !
I would start here as it's open and easy to mess with. Good luck and aslo you have a VERY Nice runner there !!!

 

[uwss]

I had the same problem you had; however it was the ignition switch. Moisture was getting in there. I replace the switch and put non-electric grease on it. Never had a problem since.

 

[wantahemi]

Probably going to do a complete rewire along with new ignition switch unless I find something obvious quickly. The thought of a burned out Roadrunner sucks!

 

[moparcanuck]

I had the EXACT same problem with my Six Pack including it cutting out but not quitting sometimes when I put the lights on, signal lights or nothing at all. Was driving me nuts. I couldn't trust it anymore. Tried everything I could think of. Finally a friend suggested I install an MSD. Expensive I said. Yes but it might fix the problem he said. Let's do it I said.

And it did. I don't know what the problem was but the MSD and MSD coil fixed it. It runs stronger than it ever did. Sounds louder than it ever did. And, believe it or not, the radio even sounds better.