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69 Super Bee Starting Issue

69dodgesuperbee

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:36 PM
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
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Location
Granbury, TX
Hi Everyone,

I desperately need your help. I have a 1969 Super Bee with a 383 and automatic transmission. About three years and 3,000 miles ago I pulled this car out of a barn, tore it down to the body shell, completely rewired it, installed all new electrical components, rebuilt the engine, transmission, all new rubber bushings, on and on. Everything on the car is new and 100% stock other than a Pertronix electronic ignition in the stock distributor and a Pertronix coil. It all works great except for one thing. Almost exactly a year ago and about 600 miles ago, it started to act like the battery was almost dead when you would turn the key. It happens randomly. You would hear the solenoid in the starter just rapidly clicking. Sometimes it will engage the motor after clicking for a fraction of a second and sometimes it will take up to six or more cycles of turning the key and just having it click. It does eventually start and has not left me stranded. For a while I would test the voltage of the battery before each start and it was never lower than 12.2 volts (after sitting a few weeks) and as high as a little above 13 volts. I have load tested the battery numerous times on three different battery load testers and it tests good every time. I have twice followed procedures outlined in some vintage Mopar videos on you tube for testing alternators and it tested good each time putting out 20+ volts. I have instated two modern electronic voltage regulators and have tried the original points style. I have tried two different ignition switches, five starters. I have checked the manufacturer of the starters to be sure they all didn't come from the same rebuilder. I have wrapped the started in header wrap to rule out heat from the exhaust. I have disconnected I believe all grounds, cleaned them and reconnected them. I have had the car to a shop several times to see if they could find anything. They were able to recreate the scenario (I am good friends with the mechanic and was there for all the tests and witnessed everything so if you have questions about what they did, I will be able to answer them) and did an amp draw on the battery cable. He concluded the starter was drawing way too much voltage (it buried the gauge) when it would make the clicking noise. When the car started fine, amp draw was normal. I'm viewing this as a last ditch effort because if I cannot trust the car to drive it, I will simply sell it. I really don't want to. I want to drive it more!!! Thanks for your help, Ken.
 
Easy stuff first. Connections. All of them. Start at battery. Both ways and back again. Remove, clean, re-secure.
 
Sometimes a seemingly good wire connection, isn't. Trust me.. Recheck everything on start circuit. Ign. switch??etc.
 
Thank you to both of you for your input. I appreciate it. I will start looking today.

Even thought I got this car in 2012 and did all the work myself, I still consider myself very new when it comes to Mopar. I have no idea what I'm doing.

If anyone else has any experience with something like this, please feel free to chime in. I attached a picture for fun so you could see the mess I started with!!!

Ken

DSC01573.JPG
 
Thank you to both of you for your input. I appreciate it. I will start looking today.

Even thought I got this car in 2012 and did all the work myself, I still consider myself very new when it comes to Mopar. I have no idea what I'm doing.

If anyone else has any experience with something like this, please feel free to chime in. I attached a picture for fun so you could see the mess I started with!!!

Ken

View attachment 361162
have replaced starter?
 
I just wrote out a bunch of crap and then read your post again. So this is my edit.
I agree those above, but double check the relay by the bulkhead.
 
Last edited:
You never said if you were running a ballast resistor? If your running Pertronix a ballast resistor may lower your voltage to much at the coil.
Measure voltage at coil with key in both positions. Start/Run
Are you using the correct coil for your Pertronix set up?
Have you tried a new relay, the one up by the bulkhead?

Per the Pertronix tech guy, I made a jumper to bypass the ballast resistor when I installed the Pertronix set up. The tech guy at Pertronix told me which electronic ignition and coil to order. Pertronix Electronic Ignition #1381A and Pertronix Flame-Thrower Coil #40011.

I have not replaced the starter relay. Good thought. I will replace it and see what happens. It never crossed my mind.

I have not checked voltage at the coil, but will.

Thanks for all your help.
 
The starter relay contacts could be burnt and not making a low resistance connection when closed.
This would cause the symptoms you have described
 
The starter relay contacts could be burnt and not making a low resistance connection when closed.
This would cause the symptoms you have described

A agree. I can't believe I didn't think about that as an option. I installed another starter solenoid and will see what happens. It worked good on the first 4 starts, but the one I took off would sometimes work for a month and then act up.

It wouldn't be the first new part that failed on this car!!! When I originally put this car together, I had a lot of issues with new parts.
 
image.jpeg
Bulkhead connector cleaning is just good housekeeping. Remove all banks carefully. Do not break off ears. Spray with contact cleaner until it runs clean. Plug back in. Finally an engine compartment picture that makes mine look clean!
 
I do feel better, but you have Factory AC!

A woman bought this car new and according to her son, he believed it was a dealer demo unit, thus it had several options. Unfortunately he drove it for a little while and it got a little beat up, then stuck in a barn for 26 years until I got it.
 
A woman bought this car new and according to her son, he believed it was a dealer demo unit, thus it had several options. Unfortunately he drove it for a little while and it got a little beat up, then stuck in a barn for 26 years until I got it.
You have History too. Priceless.
 
I keep thinking back on the "4 starters tried already" comment. Bad ground somewhere? Or something.
 
I just wrote out a bunch of crap and then read your post again. So this is my edit.
I agree those above, but double check the relay by the bulkhead.

Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. I opened up the original starter relay that came on the car when I pulled it from the barn. It looked like new inside and the points looked fresh. (This is a low mile car.) So, I put the original starter relay back on the car instead of the new ones I bought when I replaced all the wiring and electrical components. I'll see if anything changes. So far it has started every time as it should.

I'll keep everyone up to date.
 
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