70 Charger - Mechanic says "Transmission Selector Shaft" is leaking and wants 8 hours labor to replace

[4406bbl]

Thank you. I saw someone using that tool on Youtube changing one out. Would you happen to know what that is called?

Google the part number. 8609 national is the seal number, they also used to sell a taller seal for worn shift levers.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I've used that tool, have one in my box.... But honestly, I would drop the pan & the valve body... Punch the seal out from the bottom, draw in the new seal with a bolt & washers through the center of the seal... While the VB is out you also have easy access to service the rear band anchor pin....

 

[dadsbee]

Google the part number. 8609 national is the seal number, they also used to sell a taller seal for worn shift levers.

There are TWO seals, shift and throttle..

 

[4406bbl]

Suncoast also sells a washer that goes in the case to save the seal if the valve body is worn. Suncoast K0-71, shaft seal saver kit. He may not know these things, time to talk to him before he starts.

 

[matchek]

Wow y'll are so awesome on this board. Thank you so much for this valuable information!

 

[oldkimmer]

If this guy has been working on classic car including mopars he is either not very good at it, not very smart or a crook. Sounds like a make work project for him. Honestly I would move on to another shop. There is a taller shift shaft seal on eBay for the 727/904 transmissions. Kim

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Thank you. I saw someone using that tool on Youtube changing one out. Would you happen to know what that is called?

 

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[Cojohnso1]

No headers, about an hour. With headers 1.5 hours. Not difficult.

Assuming it's up in the air. And known issue? Threewood is right. But the book might say 6-8 hours?

 

[4406bbl]

Maybe but what mechanic pulls the pan and does not notice this leak while he is there, before he starts the job? If he is that incompetent I sure would not want him pulling the valve body, or the transmission for that matter.

 

[Auggie56]

Nine years at a mopar dealer, a work mate used a small hammer to install "Shift shaft seals" as far as I know none failed.
Pulling the valve body and using a bolt and washers to put the seal in, is a nother good idea, not as diffacult as some would think.

I know some will freak, I used a "scratch awl" to pop the old seal out. Took the seal on the bench grinder, and ground a slight bevel on the bottom of the seal (A trick I do on all lip seals. How many seals have you destroyed not having a proper tool?) to facilitate starting it. Making the installation easier. I then used over sized channel lock pliers, on the seal, using the pan as a backup to the top jaw, and slowly work the seal in side to side a little at a time, to achieve the installation. And to my knowledge never had a "come back".

As far as being an eight hour job, that garage is just "making a job" rather than just fixing it.
Even pulling the trans to put the seal in won't take even four hours. I was paid nine "flat rate hours" to rebuild a trans at the dealer.

 

[BearDodge67]

Sounds to me like someone got a boat payment they behind on...

 

[4406bbl]

Sounds like they do not know Mopars. Just buy the $29 tool and do it. I know it pisses mechanics off when you tell them what to do, but show him this thread, he either does not know, thinks you don't know, or is not out to help you the customer. I just can't get past changing the pan and noticing this later, and wanting this many hours, but I also don't know your original complaint....if it was brought in for a leak it is all on him.

 

[4406bbl]

I also would not want him touching the valve body, but that is just me.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

I also would not want him touching the valve body, but that is just me.

I didn't suggest having him touch the valve body, in an earlier post I had suggested finding a transmission shop

In the post mentioning dropping the valve body I said that's how I would approach the job... I wouldn't have the guy in question touching the valve body or the band anchor pin..

 

[4406bbl]

I was not directing anything at you. I just would not trust this guy to pull it. For the record I send my gm stuff to a good trans shop, they have the special tools and never rip me off.

 

[ChargerST]

As others have suggested already I'd just buy the tool and do it yourself. I've done it and it took about 45 minutes (was my first time doing it) - that was without a lift, just on jack stands and with headers too! You just have to be careful not to drop the lever - otherwise you have to pull the pan.

 

[matchek]

As an update I went the shop and he showed me the leak and showed the mechanic the tool/images from this website. First off he said the leak most often leaks after running the car and and then the leak slows down after sitting awhile. This could make sense because I didn't run it too much and didn't notice too much leaking although a little. While sitting, I saw how the fluid is very slowly oozing from the switch down the pan.

He showed me the the selector switch and where it is leaking and he had a way to do it without removing the transmission, but I have headers that run very close to to where the works is and the space is VERY tight hence he recommended to drop the trans to do it. I showed him the tool and showed him a Youtube video and afterwards and he bought the tool online and will try to do it after the tool comes in. It is really tight space in there, but did tell him that many people on this board thinks this is a 1.5 hour job at best. He didn't have the tool so will update you after the tool comes in. As far as finding the leak after the pan, well it was leaking a lot more from the pan (even perhaps even when not running) so the smaller switch leak may not have been as noticeable until the bigger pan leak was repaired as the switch leak is much slower. In any event, the mechanic saw the tool and video and is open in any avenue to save time and money so will update and thinks it wil work as long as he can get the tool in that tight space after it arrives.

Thank you so much - really great info on this thread! I don't want to have it where I'm leaving puddles in my and other driveways.

 

[matchek]

Nine years at a mopar dealer, a work mate used a small hammer to install "Shift shaft seals" as far as I know none failed.
Pulling the valve body and using a bolt and washers to put the seal in, is a nother good idea, not as diffacult as some would think.

I know some will freak, I used a "scratch awl" to pop the old seal out. Took the seal on the bench grinder, and ground a slight bevel on the bottom of the seal (A trick I do on all lip seals. How many seals have you destroyed not having a proper tool?) to facilitate starting it. Making the installation easier. I then used over sized channel lock pliers, on the seal, using the pan as a backup to the top jaw, and slowly work the seal in side to side a little at a time, to achieve the installation. And to my knowledge never had a "come back".

As far as being an eight hour job, that garage is just "making a job" rather than just fixing it.
Even pulling the trans to put the seal in won't take even four hours. I was paid nine "flat rate hours" to rebuild a trans at the dealer.

Thanks Auggie, by the way, what type/year of vehicle did you have your trans rebuilt at a dealer? I was wondering if it was antique or newer car.

 

[matchek]

Sounds like they do not know Mopars. Just buy the $29 tool and do it. I know it pisses mechanics off when you tell them what to do, but show him this thread, he either does not know, thinks you don't know, or is not out to help you the customer. I just can't get past changing the pan and noticing this later, and wanting this many hours, but I also don't know your original complaint....if it was brought in for a leak it is all on him.

Thank you I followed the advice on the board and he bought the tool online and will update afterwards after the tool comes. He had a way to do it but he honestly said he wasn't aware of this socket. They have worked on 727 trans but not a lot recently.

FYI, the car was brought in for other things (not any leak). He finished the main reason why I brought it in to him - he is just repairing leaks that he found as he progressed on the car and let me know as I didn't drive it much. I am down to this last selector switch leak (knock on wood).