71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

[70chall440]

Too bad we aren't closer geographically. I would let you test drive my Optrel.

I just looked at those Optrel helmets, very nice but definitely not cheap.

 

[ckessel]

For sure not cheap but work awesome.

 

[70chall440]

I got some supplies in and welded a few more coupons, man what a difference clean lens, a cheater lens and abundant light will do for weld quality...

 

[Virg464]

Speaking of welding, I am going to be making the filler plate out of 20g stainless which I will then weld to the stainless tank. For those who weld, I am sure you can attest to the difficulty in welding thin stainless, I have been making coupons and test welding a bunch to develop the technique and to figure out the right settings. This effort has illuminated the fact that I need a magnifier in my welding helmet and I want a better gas lens set up, so I ordered both.

This is some of the test welds, this is 24g SS so its pretty thin and as you can see not very easy to weld. I have tried all sorts of things but mainly playing with the amperage.

I have read and watched videos where they are saying to use 1 amp per 1000 thickness for steel and slightly less for SS, so in this case it would be like 15-18 amp, however that doesn't seem to work. Then I have seen other information that says crank up the heat and move fast which will get it done but usually ends with a blow through.

I just need to find the right technique and get it figured out.

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Are you running TIG or MIG? You might try an over lapping joint versus a butt joint, if tinkering with the settings doesn't get it fixed.

 

[70chall440]

Are you running TIG or MIG? You might try an over lapping joint versus a butt joint, if tinkering with the settings doesn't get it fixed.

I am using TIG because the material is very thin, also because it is SS. I know that you can MIG stainless but this is a gas tank and I would rather use TIG. As to the joints, I could conceptually use a lap joint but it would take some doing because of how the tank is (ridges, valleys, etc.). I think I will be ok with doing a butt joint and now that I have developed a technique I think it will work.

 

[70chall440]

Probably one of the issues I have encountered is that with this thin stainless I don't know what "right" looks like. In my head I see the normal TIG "stack of dimes" type weld but with this stuff I do not think this is possible. If I try to add filler to obtain the normal look it just piles up on top of the material and doesn't flow into it. If I slow down to try and get it to flow it will blow through quickly. So I have determined that I am just going to fuse the material rather than actually weld using filler rod. I will still need to add some filler in spots but not the normal "dab dab" all the way around.

 

[64fury74charger]

Well it looks like you are going to add to your skills with the stainless welding and that’s always a plus. You will have a one of one custom stainless fuel tank and all the knowledge of exactly what you’re running on when you’re cruising down the road laughing out loud. Thanks for sharing your experience with everyone.

 

[70chall440]

Well I don't know how much laughing I will be doing but I intend to get this done one way or another.

I do enjoy obtaining new skills, the problem of course is dedicating the time to develop any level of skill at it. In this case however I am happy that I am making some progress and up'ing my TIG game to a degree at least as it relates to stainless.

 

[64fury74charger]

Time is always in short supply, but we manage to find some depending on how much any particular project means to us. This car will be so sweet when you are able to get in and cruise and that time is ever closer.

 

[Virg464]

Probably one of the issues I have encountered is that with this thin stainless I don't know what "right" looks like. In my head I see the normal TIG "stack of dimes" type weld but with this stuff I do not think this is possible. If I try to add filler to obtain the normal look it just piles up on top of the material and doesn't flow into it. If I slow down to try and get it to flow it will blow through quickly. So I have determined that I am just going to fuse the material rather than actually weld using filler rod. I will still need to add some filler in spots but not the normal "dab dab" all the way around.

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It's been a really long time since I did any TIG welding, but I remember something about reversing polarity for welding aluminum, don't know if that might be an issue?

 

[70chall440]

It's been a really long time since I did any TIG welding, but I remember something about reversing polarity for welding aluminum, don't know if that might be an issue?

Thanks but this is stainless steel. On my TIG welder I have a button for aluminum.

 

[Virg464]

Thanks but this is stainless steel. On my TIG welder I have a button for aluminum.

It's been a long time, I'm going to sit down pay attention.

 

[70chall440]

Time is always in short supply, but we manage to find some depending on how much any particular project means to us. This car will be so sweet when you are able to get in and cruise and that time is ever closer.

Actually time is not a real issue for me because I am retired, so I can work on this as much or as little as I want. My issue with time is that I am going to run out of it sometime... lol

Probably a bigger issue than time is motivation, its not that I don't want to do it but it is more about getting the gumption to go out and do it. That said I have discovered that if I think about it long enough the end result is much nicer.

 

[70chall440]

It's been a long time, I'm going to sit down pay attention.

LOL no worries.

 

[70chall440]

I am now actually working on building the tank inset. I had to make a tool I am calling a tube anvil... it allows me to put the pump head in place and accurately center punch the screw holes. I am going to use rivnuts for the 10-32 screws for the both the pump and the sending unit.

 

[Chilsam]

I bought this car several years ago and have been storing it as I worked on several others. Finally last Wednesday (10/5/22) I was about to get it into the shop and begin the build. I wanted to do this build thread to document the work and hopefully the progress in addition to getting help when needed. I have already purchased a lot (read most) of the parts needed for this build and have shelves full of stuff.

Background: This car started life off as a mundane 318 AT AC PS PB vehicle. It was B5 blue in and out and other than the AC and rear window defroster does not seem to have had much in the way of options. I purchased the car from a guy in AZ who had owned the car for some time and had been collecting parts for quite awhile. The car was/is completely disassembled but is relatively rust/damage free (I will go over that along the way). The car was already converted to manual (hump installed) and I received quite a lot of parts for the car to include a date correct 383, a A833, pedals, rally cluster, etc.

Intent: My intent for this car is to make a driver, not a show or race car. I want it to be very reliable, start, run and stop well. I want to do a Superbee tribute because I have never had a Superbee and this is kind of a 2-fer, I get a Charger and a Superbee.. LOL. I do not intent to paint the car any time soon (for several reasons) but may eventually. If/when I do paint it I will most likely paint it B5 again even though this is not my favorite color (don't hate it, just not my first choice). I say this because I am going to paint the engine compartment and trunk in B5 so if I paint the exterior I guess it should match. I will be installing the 71 front and rear spoilers. I intend to put my stamp on the car with some different items and choices that will be uniquely mine. I thoroughly enjoy building these cars and love to do things a bit different. I will also be installing a new AMD air grabber hood.

Engine: I am going to be using a crate 5.7 (which I have already) and will be changing out the cam and springs for ones out of a 6.4. I am going to use TTI headers, Holley oil pain, Holley front plate, and will control the engine with a Holley Terminator X max system. I am using TTI motor mounts.

Trans: I am using a TKX 5 speed kit from Silver State. I will be installing the mid rise pistol grip without a console.

Rearend: I am going to use the stock 8.75 with 3.55:1 SG gears. I am using the stock (but modified) leaf springs and some Assassin traction bars

Suspension: I am using a Borgenson steering box, 1.14 Firm Feel T bars and Firm Feel front end rebuild kit/stuff. I am using QA1 single adjustable shocks on all 4 corners along with Hellweg sway bars front and rear. I am going to be using steel 15" wheels front and rear with the little hub caps. Front will be 15x8 and the rear 15x10. My plan is to use at least a 295 in the rear, haven't decided on the front.

Brakes: Currently I have a Wilwood set for the front and rear but I am currently rethinking that and am thinking about designing my own system. I will be using a homemade Hydroboost brake system.

Interior: Interior will be "stockish" in that I am going to be installing bucket seats and a buddy seat. I have 2 sets of stock Mopar buckets but I also have a pair of new Procar seats that I will mock up. I will mounting the shifter in the forward position and using the mid length pistol grip. I have the rally instrument cluster but I have been told that Dakota might be coming out with a new 71 B body cluster next year and if they do I will have one of those. I will install sound deadener throughout the car, going to use some black stuff off Amazon.

Well thats probably enough for an intro, I don't know how long this build will take but it will take as long as it needs. I have 2 other cars to build once this is "done" so I do want it finished at some point. I will post some pictures as I know how everyone likes them.

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rustoleum prep ?? lol....My car is from AZ also...can't beat the metal condition from there. Main issue is the sand collecting in cramped spaces n holding moisture

 

[70chall440]

I know what you mean, my car is on a rotisserie and I have spun it around a number of times and stuff still comes out..

 

[70chall440]

Worked some more on the tank. I was able to get the insert made and spent some time working on the interior baffle. After doing all that practicing I still screwed up that first corner of the insert, I was so pissed I wanted to crush it with a hammer... (yes I admit to anger issues). The second corner turned out way better and neither has any holes so I am going to call that a win.

 

[ckessel]

Nice and I get wanting to go postal. To leak check the welds, don't use water as it's more viscous. You can use alcohol, acetone, lacquer thinner. Get some in the tank and slowly roll the tank around so the liquid gets on the backside of the weld. Any issues will then show. If you have leaks, mark them/drain the liquid out/let the tank air out before welding and make sure it's dry too. You can run exhaust from a running vehicle into the tank to purge the leftover vapors out while you weld if you feel there may be an issue. As long as you don't leak check with gas you should be fine though. I was going to make up my own ss tank but decided to cheat off someone else's homework. Going to use an early Stang tank for mine. Tanks Inc has them EFI ready plus I can get a 22gal unit. The Stang tank is narrower than the 65 b unit, which I need as I moved the springs inboard plus it will give me more exhaust clearance to help keep the fuel cooler.

 

[70chall440]

Typically I use compressed air and soapy water to check for leaks. It does not take much air pressure at all to show a leak.