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71 Charger Superbee Tribute/Restomod Build

Spent a fair bit of time making a TB adapter. I am definitely not a machinist but I can make a lot of chips... LOL. I am satisfied with the result although I would do it differently if I were to do it again. I made it to accept both a stock 5.7 TB as well as the factory O ring (is actually not an O ring, more of a rubber seal).

I still need to do a little work on it but I am close to being done. I made it out of 6061 so I think it should be fine.

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I finally got the TB adapter done and installed, it definitely made a difference as the hood closes and the AG door does not touch the air cleaner any more.. YAY!!!

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The car moved on its own for the first time today... it was not happy but it did it.

The BAD:
- The engine didn't want to idle for quite awhile and I had to keep it running with the pedal
- The clutch needs to be re-bled as I had to pump the crap out of the pedal to get it into gear.
- It still has a fuel leak after stopping 3 others
- The lights are not working currently

The GOOD:
- PS and brakes seem to work good (home made hydroboost)
- The engine eventually decided to idle (after I moved the car to where I wanted it)
- It has ALOT of power and will be a blast to drive
- Sounds awesome
- The DD is coming around (I am working with it to set it up)

I have to replace a water pump on a 97 Chrysler 3.5 tomorrow so the Charger will have to wait.
 
In case anyone wants to hear it run. I know that the AFR is jacked up, not sure what is happening there. The exhaust is 2.5" Flowmaster 304 stainless builders kit and Flowmaster mufflers.

 
Ive been working on the fuel system (again). The main problem that I ran into is that I could not get a wrench onto the fuel line nuts on the cross member pass through tubes I had made. I used an existing hole in the cross member but that ended up putting the nuts very close. When I first did it I convinced myself that it would be fine, well it wasnt.

Of course if you cannot get a wrench on the nuts you cannot tighten them so they leak which is what prompted me to revisit the system. So as a result what I ended up doing is;

1. opening up the hole/slot in the crossmember so that I could separate the tubes more.

2. Went to flexible line from the hard line to the crossmember pass through tubes. This makes it easier to assemble plus I think helps to seal the lines because the flexible lines will give whereas the hardlines not so much.

I made one plate set up but didn't like it (the rounded version) so I changed it (square version). I am now waiting on some fittings.

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Polished up the back window and laid it in, I am waiting on some urethane primer before actually installing it. I also put the weather stripping in over the doors.
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Well I ended up having to remove that drivers door glass because of the mirror cable routing but that wasn't a big deal. It also gave me a chance to lubricate everything.

I ended up getting both door windows in and adjusted.

Now I am going to look at some of the electrical and tune that up a bit.

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In my continuing effort to procrastinate I decided to put on my emblems. Here are some pictures.

I ran a string front to back through the center of the side markers.

Then I used a non-permanent marker to make a line.

The metal emblem is 1.5" away from the fender edge and the decal is 1/2" away from the metal emblem.

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