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727 shift points....

P Dubya

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Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it. 440/727 combination. Otherwise seems to operate as it should. Thanks!
 
You can change the governor weights buy removing the tail shaft housing only.
Transmission companies such as A&A has different weights . I like the Max Wedge weight for 6,000 rpm up shifts under full throttle.
 
Just wanted to add,you can adjust the kick down linkage longer so that it is at or about full stop at the transmission lever.
May give you a little more rpm, Just a thought.
 
... I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it...

Your throttle pressure linkage may not be set high enough.

As you depress the accelerator pedal, the throttle cable rotates the throttle lever at the carburetor pushing back on the throttle pressure linkage. The TP linkage operates a (pressure) lever down on the transmission. This lever has a range of motion controlling internal oil pressures in the transmission from its minimum setting to it's maximum at the lever.

The ideal settings for the throttle pressure linkage are:
- long enough, so when the carburetor is at maximum throttle (WOT=wide open throttle) the pressure lever is pushed to it's maximum position,
- short enough, so it doesn't push on the pressure linkage at all when at idle so the pressure lever is at it's minimum position.

Shift points can be changed a little by adjusting the throttle pressure linkage. This solution works for 99% of the shifting issues we typically see.
 
Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it. 440/727 combination. Otherwise seems to operate as it should. Thanks!
Show us a photo of the kickdown linkage at your carburetor. Especially the slotted lever and pin on the carb.
 
If you are using an aftermarket cable system, all bets are off. I don't like them; hard to adjust properly.
 
Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it.

Under what operating conditions? WOT? Part throttle?
 
Show us a photo of the kickdown linkage at your carburetor. Especially the slotted lever and pin on the carb.
A little tinkering by an (older than me) old guy that knows his Mopars and it's shifting great!

20240622_112155.jpg
 
this worked on 2 cars. use a b&m shift kit. there are 3 different set ups. use the RV the mildest one. They say to take out the big spring when you pull down the valve body but I kept it in because the first to second light throttle shift was too hard for me. shifts now are a little firmer. it also made my wot shifts go to 5150 -5250 first to second and second to third 5100-5200. you can fine tune by the kick down rod. when stock both cars would shift 4400-4600 rpms even with the kick down rod adjusted all the way.
 
this worked on 2 cars. use a b&m shift kit. there are 3 different set ups. use the RV the mildest one. They say to take out the big spring when you pull down the valve body but I kept it in because the first to second light throttle shift was too hard for me. shifts now are a little firmer. it also made my wot shifts go to 5150 -5250 first to second and second to third 5100-5200. you can fine tune by the kick down rod. when stock both cars would shift 4400-4600 rpms even with the kick down rod adjusted all the way.
yes both were Mopar 727
 
Your linkage setup looks pretty darn good and OEM, to me. Well done.

FYI, you may be missing a washer on your throttle stud. The slotted-part of the pressure linkage, pushed rearward by the throttle stud, is held in place by a washer and hairpin clip in the center groove of the throttle stud.

In your photo, I think I see the hair pin clip, and even the throttle return spring hook, but no washer between the clip (or throttle return spring hook) and slotted-part of the throttle pressure linkage. Instead, I think I see a round shadow where the washer once rested.

edit: I believe the throttle return spring hook belongs in between the u-shaped clip attached to the throttle cable, at the inner-end of the throttle stud.
 
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this worked on 2 cars. use a b&m shift kit. there are 3 different set ups. use the RV the mildest one. They say to take out the big spring when you pull down the valve body but I kept it in because the first to second light throttle shift was too hard for me. shifts now are a little firmer. it also made my wot shifts go to 5150 -5250 first to second and second to third 5100-5200. you can fine tune by the kick down rod. when stock both cars would shift 4400-4600 rpms even with the kick down rod adjusted all the way.
I need to work on my shift points, 440/727. It shifts into 2nd almost immediately after I start rolling, giving it fairly heavy throttle. I have the kickdown linkage adjusted all the way tight with 1/8" play at WOT. I was considering dropping the pan and tightening up the pump pressure.
Maybe I should go ahead with a shift kit while I am in there?
 
I need to work on my shift points, 440/727. It shifts into 2nd almost immediately after I start rolling, giving it fairly heavy throttle. I have the kickdown linkage adjusted all the way tight with 1/8" play at WOT. I was considering dropping the pan and tightening up the pump pressure.
Maybe I should go ahead with a shift kit while I am in there?
I would go a little less than 1/16". the last one I had rebuilt at the shop at wot it only shifts at 4600 rpms. not sure what they did, it shifts at the right mph at light throttle and wide open it has a firm shift but just shifts too early at wot for me I like 5000-5300 rpms.
 
I need to work on my shift points, 440/727. It shifts into 2nd almost immediately after I start rolling, giving it fairly heavy throttle. I have the kickdown linkage adjusted all the way tight with 1/8" play at WOT. I was considering dropping the pan and tightening up the pump pressure.
Maybe I should go ahead with a shift kit while I am in there?
You have to turn the hex pressure adjustment screw counter-clockwise to increase pressure. I would try a couple of full turns. Also, try a new, clean filter.
 
I would go a little less than 1/16". the last one I had rebuilt at the shop at wot it only shifts at 4600 rpms. not sure what they did, it shifts at the right mph at light throttle and wide open it has a firm shift but just shifts too early at wot for me I like 5000-5300 rpms.
You could try A&A Transmissions for lighter governor weights, that will increase shift speed. You need to pull your driveshaft and tailshaft housing to do it. Transmission can stay in car. An afternoon's work.
 
You could try A&A Transmissions for lighter governor weights, that will increase shift speed. You need to pull your driveshaft and tailshaft housing to do it.
Dave beat be to it. they make many different weights for different body style applications.
For performance I like the Max Wedge weights.Shift at 6-6200 rpm.
 
Is there a way to change the shift points without a complete teardown/rebuild? I feel as if my trans shifts much to quickly to the next higher gear unless I manually shift it. 440/727 combination. Otherwise seems to operate as it should. Thanks!
Are you talking part throttle, or WOT upshifts. The fix is different.

WOT can usually be adjusted to the desired rpm shift point by removing weight from the governor’s small inner weight. Changing the spring is less predictable.

Sometimes the 1-2 shift rpm is higher than the 2-3 shift rpm. If so, adjust the governor inner to get the desired 2-3 shift, then install a stiffer 1-2 shift valve spring.
 
Are you talking part throttle, or WOT upshifts. The fix is different.

WOT can usually be adjusted to the desired rpm shift point by removing weight from the governor’s small inner weight. Changing the spring is less predictable.

Sometimes the 1-2 shift rpm is higher than the 2-3 shift rpm. If so, adjust the governor inner to get the desired 2-3 shift, then install a stiffer 1-2 shift valve spring.
in post 13# he asked light part throttle up shifting to early but he is not the original thread poster so it is confusing.
 
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