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727 TF rebuild kit

m79ded

m79ded

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Hi

I am looking for advise on a rebuild kit (Bands, clutches, seals ) etc... I guess perhaps the entire kit for my 727. It was freshened up many years ago and I think it's a good idea to redo it. It runs fine and oil is good but I'm now putting more power through it.
I was told there are some really good kits?? Someone said red I'm not sure if that makes sense or not, There are TCI, PATC Dynamic lots out there. Looking for a higher Power level application.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
m79ded said:
Hi

I am looking for advise on a rebuild kit (Bands, clutches, seals ) etc... I guess perhaps the entire kit for my 727. It was freshened up many years ago and I think it's a good idea to redo it. It runs fine and oil is good but I'm now putting more power through it.
I was told there are some really good kits?? Someone said red I'm not sure if that makes sense or not, There are TCI, PATC Dynamic lots out there. Looking for a higher Power level application.

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
They do make clutch disks with red friction material. It's for racing and such, it grip's harder, for a quicker shift I think. The guy who recently rebuilt my trans reccomened I go withome the regular borg warner clutch discs he said they perform well. There is a front band that they make a solid version and flexible more flimsy too... you want the solid one (I think the solid one he put in mine actually had the red friction material) I'm not really an expert on any of this trans stuff but just had mine completely overhauled.

The guy did a stock rebuilt for the most part but he upgraded one of the clutches to 5 disc (it was 4 disc before), put that solid front band in I was talking about, and he installed a TF-2 shift kit by transgo.

The trans is probably overkill for my little 318, but it is also hauling extra weight from it being a wagon. I haven't gotten to drive it much but so far it feels great. I'm not sure how much power it would handle, but I'm my case I don't have to worry much.

People here will also want to know what kind of engine your car has now, what power it's making, etc...to give you more answers.

Best of luck
 
Last edited:
I am happy with the kits I got from Cope. Clutches & steels seem to be really good.
 
Evan Frucht said:
They do make clutch disk with red friction material. It's for racing and such, it grip's harder, for a quicker shift I think. The guy who recently rebuilt my trans reccomened I go withome the regular borg warner clutch discs he said they perform well. There is a front band that they make a solid version and flexible more flimsy too... you want the solid one. I'm not really an expert on any of this trans stuff but just had mine completell overhauled.

The guy did a stock rebuilt for the most part but he upgraded one of the clutches to 5 disc (it was 4 disc before), put that solid front band in I was talking about, and he installed a TF-2 shift kit by transgo.

The trans is probably overkill for my little 318, but it is also hauling extra weight from it being a wagon. I haven't gotten to drive it much but so far it feels great. I'm not sure how much power it would handle, but I'm my case I don't have to worry much.

People here will also want to know what kind of engine your car has now, what power it's making, etc...to give you more answers.

Best of luck
Click to expand...
The engine is a 451 making 613hp 625 tq going to 4:10 gears I presently have a 5 clutch pack,
 
m79ded said:
The engine is a 451 making 613hp 625 tq going to 4:10 gears I presently have a 5 clutch pack,
Click to expand...
Nice! I'm no expert but it sounds like you probably have a good start and just need a good rebuilder to hook you up with a complete overhaul so you can feel confident in it. They could probably tell you what they think of the red friction material, the guy who rebuilt mine said people who race like the red. Since I never race the car and my only really concerned with durability he recommended the stock type and said they were great.

I too had read about someone using red clutch discs here on FBBO when I was researching my trans concerns before having it rebuilt, and didn't know what to think, so I asked the rebuilder about it when I met him and that's what he said.
 
Here's a good starting point. If you want to do it yourself.

http://www.northernautoparts.com/part/tk-22008c

They are the easiest transmission to rebuild and will hold plenty of power even in stock form.

Most any builder is just taking parts from kits like these or from Places like WIT https://www.wittrans.com/
One friend bought seals from a popular mopar trans builder, got the same seals from WIT or bulkpart... baggie had same part number. Price was 2.5x from the builder...
 
I have built many 727's for myself & others, mine for drag racing. I have used the Turbo Action "birch bark" front band & the red Raybestos front band. Both worked well. I would lean toward the red Rebestos band. I used both flex & hard front bands. I think the lever ratio & front servo spring combination is important. I currently use the red flex band. I only use red front clutches for any performance application. I am a believer in 5 disc front clutches. Used the Turbo Action modified disc for many years, many thousand runs. Cope thin red clutches seem really good for 5 in standard 4 disc drum. Use a high quality aftermarket valve body.
 
The thin red clutch frictions are available at many suppliers. My current car runs 9.0@150/3345lbs. The clutch frictions (5 alto red) went over 400 passes and were still serviceable. The Same KD band is still in the trans. My old car ran 10.1@129/3450lbs. It went 700 passes on 4 friction Raybestos tan clutch frictions before inspection. You could still read the word "Raybestos" on the frictions at that time.
Doug
 
I bought my last kit off of ebay. Alto clutches and Koline steels, full kit with bushings, o-rings and seals for about $160
 
So your from the USA....Making more power...how much power will it be?? You might think about UPgrades to handle much over 500HP:popcorn2:
 
The trans has thin and thick clutches in it. Look at the WIT site. the exploded pic version of the 727. You can buy the thin clutches and steels to get what you need. put thin clutches where thick used to be and set clearance appropriately. IIRC there are ~.060 and .080 thick clutches.
 
Last edited:
HEMI-ITIS said:
So your from the USA....Making more power...how much power will it be?? You might think about UPgrades to handle much over 500HP:popcorn2:
Click to expand...
I'm up in Montreal now, Engine is up over 600 and runs well, thing I want to do is freshen the tranny because it's been a long time, Yes my buddy Nick @ Nick's Garage put it together a long time ago and held up very well and truth to be said it works ok. Since I put the 451 in the car it's also making about 100 hp more than my miler 440 and with 4200lbs it's hard on the drivetrain when the car hooks well. Perhaps I'm lookin at this as a sort of preventive maintenance. I like the suggestions of TCI, Raybestos,Alto,Koline, Turbo Action. I guess it's the red clutches and the band
 
m79ded said:
I'm up in Montreal now, Engine is up over 600 and runs well, thing I want to do is freshen the tranny because it's been a long time, Yes my buddy Nick @ Nick's Garage put it together a long time ago and held up very well and truth to be said it works ok. Since I put the 451 in the car it's also making about 100 hp more than my miler 440 and with 4200lbs it's hard on the drivetrain when the car hooks well. Perhaps I'm lookin at this as a sort of preventive maintenance. I like the suggestions of TCI, Raybestos,Alto,Koline, Turbo Action. I guess it's the red clutches and the band
Click to expand...
You might want to consider contacting Pat Storey at SMR TRANSMISSIONS in Ontario. 1-888-846-6603. Pat has drag raced up and down the East Coast for a number of years in a Dodge Dakota. Really knows his Mopars and can supply you with everything you need. He also builds high stall converters.
 
I agree with HEMI-ITIS, if at or above 600HP it's time go to a billet front drum & a upgraded sprag. Planetaries, my stock 4 pinions held up fine, probably on the edge though.
 
I run 3 pin plants in my 9.0 car, 500 passes. Never seen a planet break. Strip the splines out , yes. The only good quality upgrade sprag you can buy is the $200 piece (A&A, CRT, TCI). The rest are of no improvement. It's still possible to hurt even the good sprag as well. The best insurance is a good high gear drum. But they are expensive $650. I've never broke a stock drum in 40 years of beating on these. Pure race car? Probably should have a good drum. Then it doesn't matter what sprag or valve body you run.
Doug
 
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