73 Roadrunner 340 Auto

[MoparJimT]

Builderguy, Sorry to hear about the tranny. Glad it did not cause an accident. My optimistic self says it could have been a lot worse. But still not good. Hope the shop stands behind their work.
Nice metalwork. Definately not in my wheelhouse to try. I had trouble just straightening and polishing. As with all the work we have seen you do it will turn out awesome!!

 

[Builderguy]

UPDATE: The trans shop called on Friday afternoon. They said nothing was wrong with their transmission work (hmmmmm) except for a slight pan leak and the neutral safety switch needing some internal adjustment to the ball assembly. It is their opinion that the rear u-joint failed after one of the "C" clips let loose. I installed those myself and I know how important they are so I tripled checked them and all were in tight and at full depth. The trans took a little bit of a beating so I have to do some work there, but they will warranty their work, put it all back together, and install it back in the car. I guess that is as good as it is going to get. If there is a silver lining to this cloud of ****, it would be that the case held up pretty well and can be repaired. Good, since that holds all the stamped matching numbers for this car. The extension housing, that is another story. It took the brunt of the damage and may be irreparable, shot, junk, scrap, or whatever term you want to use meaning "beyond all hope". But maybe not, I will take it to the best aluminum welder I know, who does this for a living, and see what he thinks about the extension housing. I have others, but they would not be the one the car was "born" with and that kinda sucks. This housing has some manufacture codes on it but I don't remember if there is any form of a date code. If would never hide anything from a potential buyer so I have no problem posting what happened on this forum. It is what it is and I can't change what happened. I can repair, rebuild, and make better just about any part, but I can't clone them. Working on this, but no success to date. So, I will get the case and the extension housing from the shop on Monday afternoon and run it right over to the welder and see what he has to say. I will keep you all informed. PS: I has to get a lot better than this before I learn to like it!

 

[HawkRod]

UPDATE: The trans shop called on Friday afternoon. They said nothing was wrong with their transmission work (hmmmmm) except for a slight pan leak and the neutral safety switch needing some internal adjustment to the ball assembly. It is their opinion that the rear u-joint failed after one of the "C" clips let loose. I installed those myself and I know how important they are so I tripled checked them and all were in tight and at full depth. The trans took a little bit of a beating so I have to do some work there, but they will warranty their work, put it all back together, and install it back in the car. I guess that is as good as it is going to get. If there is a silver lining to this cloud of ****, it would be that the case held up pretty well and can be repaired. Good, since that holds all the stamped matching numbers for this car. The extension housing, that is another story. It took the brunt of the damage and may be irreparable, shot, junk, scrap, or whatever term you want to use meaning "beyond all hope". But maybe not, I will take it to the best aluminum welder I know, who does this for a living, and see what he thinks about the extension housing. I have others, but they would not be the one the car was "born" with and that kinda sucks. This housing has some manufacture codes on it but I don't remember if there is any form of a date code. If would never hide anything from a potential buyer so I have no problem posting what happened on this forum. It is what it is and I can't change what happened. I can repair, rebuild, and make better just about any part, but I can't clone them. Working on this, but no success to date. So, I will get the case and the extension housing from the shop on Monday afternoon and run it right over to the welder and see what he has to say. I will keep you all informed. PS: I has to get a lot better than this before I learn to like it!

So that's a bit odd. Did they explain why you couldn't turn the driveshaft while in neutral (leading you to believe that the transmission grenaded itself)?

Regardless, I hope the aluminum welding works great and you get the car back on the road quickly!

 

[Builderguy]

Had time yesterday to run both the case and the extension housing to the welder. Good news was that he can/did repair the numbers matching case.

Bad news, the extension housing was beyond repair:

Good news, the trans I was saving to go into my challenger had the same extension housing and better yet, had the same part number. Bonus: Now has a penatstar

Everything was dropped off at the trans shop this morning so they can put it "ALL" back together.
Any further issues will be 100% on them. My better half asked how much the trans shop was going to charge me for remove/replace. I have no idea at this time. Can't change shops mid-stream so I guess I will find out when I pick the car up.

 

[Builderguy]

Waiting, still waiting!! All this time off left me time to do some yard work and to finally put a new radiator and rear struts in the
winter beater. Long time since using metric tools.

ls

 

[Builderguy]

I got the Roadrunner from the transmission shop this afternoon, but not without some drama. First, the car did not want to start. Rolled over and tried to fire but acted like it was flooded. Granted, it sat out and it only around 40 degrees outside, but it normally fired right up. I tried everything I could think of with no luck. So instead of getting all bent out shape I used "phone a friend" which quickly brought two of my race engine building buddies to the shop. This was the first attempt at firing the engine since the trans took a leave of absence. Less than 5 minutes of troubleshooting and they knew the timing was messed up.
Gave it a bunch of advance and it fired right up. Still not right, but at least running. Since it was so hard to start, I asked the shop manager if I could limp it to the race shop garage while it was still running. I had not paid, nor received, the bill so I have no idea how much this incident is going to cost. He said okay, and away we went. It is now at their shop.

When the guys were adjusting the timing they noticed that the distributor had slipped a little from its original locked down position. I don't know why but it may have been when the trans locked up (my opinion) and the motor did a pretty rapid stop/stall but I guess we won't ever really know.

Now a little drama. Before we left, the shop informed me that they had a lot of trouble getting the snapped bolts out of the yoke. I don't know why as I would have welded a washer on and then welded a nut to the washer, and off they would have come. Nope, the tech ended up drilling out the bolt and then putting a bolt and nut in one of the holes. Not cool, now I need to replace the yoke and worry about the crush all over again. Little PO'd about that. All they needed to do was call and I would have left work and came right down. Too late now!

Okay, back to the timing issue. At the shop we checked and the timing was only at 2 degrees BTDC. No wonder it was running like **** and barely idling. Jacked it up to 22 degrees at 900 RPM which resulted in 44 degrees at 2200 RPM. At this setting the motor is like a jack rabbit. But it would not last very long at this setting so we backed the initial down to 19.6 which still gave 44 at 2200 RPM and worse yet, gave 50 degrees at 3000 RPM. I have a set of stronger springs that I will put in tomorrow and test it again. I really don't want to be much more than 38-40 at 3000.

 

[Builderguy]

Found more time and the winter beater is done and will be leaving my garage to make room for the return of the Roadrunner. That is, after I replace the damaged exhaust system. Looks like only the left muffler was torn up. A replacement came yesterday so I will try and get to the shop Sunday or Monday if work doesn't call me in.

Spoke with the owner of the transmission shop on Friday, after work, to see how much the bill was. For those who have not followed this: The shop removed the trans, checked the transmission internals over, allowed me to weld up the case and supply a new extension housing, re-installed all the good parts back into the trans (replacing the shift position detent ball assembly), replaced the needed seals and gaskets, re-installed the transmission, removed the sheared off bolts from the yoke, installed new rear U-joint, re-installed the drive shaft, and removed and saved the damaged left side exhaust. Grand total billed to me: ZERO!
Yup, ZERO, no charge, free, gratis, or any other word that means ZIP. I may never know what caused this trans to let loose but I now know that I would have no problem taking this man/his shop another project. There are not too many shops that would stand behind their work as they did. And even fewer that would R&R any transmission for free.

What is left now is to get all the carb linkages spot on and to get the timing dialed in. Once the exhaust is back on I can road test it and see how the timing works out and adjust as needed. Then back to my garage for installation of the last flew pieces of trim, install the side markers, and do a final safety check. Lastly, a final polish and it will be ready to go. Soooon, very soon!

 

[HawkRod]

Found more time and the winter beater is done and will be leaving my garage to make room for the return of the Roadrunner. That is, after I replace the damaged exhaust system. Looks like only the left muffler was torn up. A replacement came yesterday so I will try and get to the shop Sunday or Monday if work doesn't call me in.

View attachment 1196520 View attachment 1196521

Spoke with the owner of the transmission shop on Friday, after work, to see how much the bill was. For those who have not followed this: The shop removed the trans, checked the transmission internals over, allowed me to weld up the case and supply a new extension housing, re-installed all the good parts back into the trans (replacing the shift position detent ball assembly), replaced the needed seals and gaskets, re-installed the transmission, removed the sheared off bolts from the yoke, installed new rear U-joint, re-installed the drive shaft, and removed and saved the damaged left side exhaust. Grand total billed to me: ZERO!
Yup, ZERO, no charge, free, gratis, or any other word that means ZIP. I may never know what caused this trans to let loose but I now know that I would have no problem taking this man/his shop another project. There are not too many shops that would stand behind their work as they did. And even fewer that would R&R any transmission for free.

What is left now is to get all the carb linkages spot on and to get the timing dialed in. Once the exhaust is back on I can road test it and see how the timing works out and adjust as needed. Then back to my garage for installation of the last flew pieces of trim, install the side markers, and do a final safety check. Lastly, a final polish and it will be ready to go. Soooon, very soon!

Awesome that the shop owner stood by his work and made sure he had a happy customer. Good on him to make it right!

Now you are really getting close - go for it! You've almost got this restoration licked!

 

[Builderguy]

Exhaust is all back together again!!! Found the exact same muffler that was used in the original installation (no Hawk, not the cardboard one). Tips are finally on and clearing the valance just fine. Drove it back home and it is just a little rocket, just some minor tweaks needed but that will have to wait until after Thanksgiving. For now it is just good to have it back home, kinda missed her. Not sure how I am going to take it when she is sold. We have been together for around two years now and I know every inch of her, the good and the bad, and I like having her around.

 

[HawkRod]

Exhaust is all back together again!!! Found the exact same muffler that was used in the original installation (no Hawk, not the cardboard one).

Hey, carboard mufflers sound really racy very quickly!

Drove it back home and it is just a little rocket, just some minor tweaks needed but that will have to wait until after Thanksgiving. For now it is just good to have it back home, kinda missed her. Not sure how I am going to take it when she is sold. We have been together for around two years now and I know every inch of her, the good and the bad, and I like having her around.

What's not to like? It is a super nice car, and any more, they are uncommon. Plus, the 340 is a great engine. When was the last time you saw one of these out on the road or at a car show?

 

[Builderguy]

Dang, finding "one" wheel arch for the right front took a little longer than I thought but I now have it and I can proceed. I will fix mine a little later but right now I need this trim install done so I can keep moving forward. One more item off the short punch list.

 

[Builderguy]

All the family and guests have left and are headed back home. Great to have all the kids (and +1's) in the house at one time. A lot and food and drink is missing from the supply but everyone had a great Thanksgiving.

The wife and I were able to get in the garage and work on the car for a couple of hours today. First we set the thermoquad's idle mixture for each primary throat. I marked the screws with paint at 12:00 when fully screwed in. They were close but not exactly in the same position. Then opened them up 2 turns for a starting point. Engine was allowed to warm up and the choke to come off. We were shooting for 850 RPM in "N" per the manual. Adjusted the screws so many time in/out and side to side I lost count of the exact number of turns for final position. Sorry, but each carb will be a little different anyway. Ended up being happy with the tach bouncing right around 850. I am still checking on if that is the correct Corbin hose clamp or if it should be the flat style.

Next up was tuning of the timing. Using the wife's steady foot as a throttle lock, we ran it up to 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance off and plugged. Set the timing at 36 degrees BTDC. This setting, with the advance re-connected, resulted in a reading of 20 degrees BTDC at idle speed of 850 RPM. Those numbers are just fine with me. I have to wait for this last snowfall to melt off before I can road test these settings.

One small PS

I did have to adjust the electric choke rod to make the choke completely come off and allow the secondaries to open. Before the adjustment (bending the rod to make it shorter) the secondaries opening was hit or miss. Now it is spot on and stays that way once warmed up. Always learning.

 

[Builderguy]

Just finished putting in the marker lights and adjusting the headlights. Everything works like it should. Pretty stoked about that since working on the rear lights is a PITA! I know I had them working while loose in the trunk, but working on the car can often be hit or miss. Two more items off the punch list.

 

[Builderguy]

Got the trunk all cleaned up so the mat could go in. I know the mat wasn't super expensive (less than $50) but one would think it would fit better than this. The right cutout is about 3/4" short of where it should be. I will trim it off the left side as the spare tire covers that. I am sure the factory did not get inside and trim every mat. As with everything on these cars, a 10 minute job takes 3 times longer than expected. But; one more item of the punch list. Sorry, just had to vent a little.

 

[MoparJimT]

Very Nice Mr. Builderguy awesome work as usual!!! I am still struggling with a few of those punch list items unfortunately just have not been able to carve out some time to work on her. Trying to finish a construction project in the basement. I will get back at it soon I hope.

 

[Builderguy]

The grill that was in the car had some minor damage that needed to be fixed. Most of it could be repaired by heating the plastic, putting in the correct position, and then letting it cool to take a new set. Only one spot needed some extra attention. It was cracked, missing a piece, and in an area that you see right away. Melted it back together, added a little glue, then added some glaze, and finished with primer and paint. Still need to do the silver/grey highlights after the paint dries, but I have a plan for that.

 

[Builderguy]

As I wait for the grill to dry, decided to start on the air cleaner. Somewhere in it's life, the air cleaner was repainted (wrong color, too dark) and had the snot knocked out of it. Who does this to an air cleaner? It also has minor surface rust issues to address.

Taking it down to bare metal since I have to beat and bang on it.

I can find this info decal, but finding one with the "Made in Canada" part is eluding me so far.

 

[Builderguy]

You spend enough time on the innerweb and you can find almost anything. Just had to change the search wording a little. This was from Performance Car Graphics. So it be available so it be sent to me.

 

[Builderguy]

Trunk is done, or at least as far as I am going to take it. Finishing the grill is next on the list. That fat lady has entered the hall.

 

[Builderguy]

My plan for the grille highlights was pretty simple. Use a small hard roller (wallpaper seam roller) to transfer the paint evenly. This way I would not have to mask off the entire grille. The only area I would have to tape was the section where two of the sections were really close, and then I only had to mask to prevent rubbing the other surface. Worked pretty well and saved a lot of time.
Close up photos really show the dust

I only had to do a few inches with a small brush. It is not perfect, but the grille was not perfect from the factory.

I sprayed the metal trim piece and that turned out great, but the pics might not show it so well. I will put it all together tomorrow unless work calls. Just hope I can find all the screws and spacers.