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73 roadrunner ignition issues

73Roadrunner1

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I recently dropped a 408 (360 magnum) from blueprint engines in my 73 roadrunner. They say the distributor needs 12 volts. I'm wondering if I can just get a coil that can handle 12v and take out the ballast resistor or if I would have to replace the module as well. It's a 5 pin module if that matters. Maybe just replace the distributor? Without the ballast it's reading 9.4v

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Looks like you have everything for a Mopar electronic distributor.
I would consider getting one.
 
I'm not sure it came with the engine. I'll call and ask tomorrow when they are open
Have them send instructions for it. I would also ask them which coil they recommend. I have a mancini ready to run and a MSD coil. The distributor and coil both are fed a constant 12 volts by design.
 
If they say the dist 'needs 12 volts', then it is not a Chrys dist. You need to find out what type of dist it is.....& a wiring diagram so that it can be correctly wired up.
 
It is prob a all in one dist that is independent of the previous ignition. Have a pic of the dist? Also how many wires does it have.
 
Everything is stock besides the distributor. I wouldn't have to change anything if I get an electronic distributor?
Probably not from what I see.
If you have a Mopar distributor or can borrow a loose one just find the end where the black plug with the orange and white black plug in.
Put the key in run position with the coil wire pulled out of the distributor and held/set about a 1/4" from a ground.
Then spin the distributor shaft and you can see if you have spark.

For start position you'll need a helper or disconnect the starter relay. But you'll still probably need someone.

Corrected above sorry
 
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for the question on the ballast resistor you can bypass it with a heavy g wire for the full 12v. I don't know if it will effect the rest of your ignition with the mopar box but I had to do that with my MSD system. I used 2 10g wires braided together for good measure. been good for 5 years now.
 
Have them send instructions for it. I would also ask them which coil they recommend. I have a mancini ready to run and a MSD coil. The distributor and coil both are fed a constant 12 volts by design.
Turns out I have the mancini pro series ready to run distributor and they recommend an MSD blaster 2 coil.
 
WOW! Guys, we really need to go back to basic electricity and electronics. What does a ballast resistor do? Good question, glad you asked. It was used in the old days because points would ground out the coil for a long time at idle, and less time as RPMs increased.

Now for the reflection on basic electricity. An ignition coil is an inductor. More specifically, a step-up transformer (which is inductive). Looking at it in the pico-second resolution, when you have battery voltage going to one end of the inductor (coil +), and the points ground out the other end (coil -), the coil begins to convert electrical energy into a magnetic field. At first, there is absolutely no current flowing. As this field builds, current increases. There is a point where the magnetic field is as strong is it will ever get at battery voltage. When this happens, the windings inside the primary side of the coil flow current just like plain 'ole wire.

How long do you need to pulse the coil? This is your Dwell. In the old days, you adjusted Dwell by gapping the points. Fact is, the actual activation time varied with RPM. Think in terms of milliseconds here. Low idle delivered a long dwell time. As RPM increased, actual dwell time (in milliseconds) reduced.

Let's see how a ballast resistor could save the day. Ballast resistors increase resistance when they get hotter. Higher temperature, higher resistance. If you have current flowing through even a straight wire, it can get hot. (Ever crank and crank an engine that didn't want to start and touch the battery cables??) When the points would deliver way more dwell than the coil could handle without burning up, the ballast resistor would lower the voltage so the coil survived. Increased resistance "throttled" current, and thus voltage.

With all of that background, your goal is to deliver proper spark to the plugs to fire the air/fuel mix. This is a function of your chosen ignition system. So I ask you to question this: WHAT DOES YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM HAVE TO DO WITH THE ENGINE BUILD AS LONG AS YOU CAN FIRE THE CHARGE AT THE RIGHT TIME?!?!?!?

Just use a tried and true ignition system and don't put too much thought into your original question. Just my educated and professional opinion. Hope it helps.
 
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