68 HEMI GTS
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looks great!! and didn't take years to get it there..
80 Grit!
- Thread starter Grabinov911
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northerndave
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Hey congrats and way to get after it.
Put me in the camp of "it's more fun driving them than inching them along through a 20 yr restore process"
Enjoy!
Put me in the camp of "it's more fun driving them than inching them along through a 20 yr restore process"
Enjoy!
mattsinger
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Looks great! Should be a fun ride....Enjoy
Grabinov911
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Dynamat
Here we go. Now that the paint is finished, I'm on a: "This XYZ is bugging the !@#$out of me" kick. The first thing that really bugs me is the rattling doors, oh, and the noise from that cavern of a trunk. The door lock mechanisms and the window regulators just sit in there and rattle. And the trunk sounds like a bass drum. Enough.
I tried out two sound dampening products this weekend - mostly because they were available locally. The first is called STP, and I used it under the rear bench seat and on the rear fender wells inside of the car. The second is Dynamat Xtreme which is sort of the household name for this kind of stuff. The STP came in large sheets and I did the whole area under the rear seat (all the way forward to the carpet) and up the rear trunk divider all the way to the top of the fender wells. That was with $88.00 of STP. I bought the Dynamat as a "2 Door Kit" and it came with about 2/3 as much material as the STP did - for $99.00. It's definitely more expensive, but all in all I'd say the Dynamat is easier to use. It is more durable when forcing it into the curves in the sheet metal (less tearing) and it seems to mold into itself (smooth where edges overlap) better than the STP. All together I probably added about 40 pounds of insulation to the car so far. The doors were a lot more fun (sitting on a stool) than the back was - crawling around on my knees in the back of the car.
I haven't driven the car since I did the insulation this weekend but I am impressed with the improvement in the doors already. They close like the doors on a new car - heavy and solid. Thunk, not crash/rattle.
Here we go. Now that the paint is finished, I'm on a: "This XYZ is bugging the !@#$out of me" kick. The first thing that really bugs me is the rattling doors, oh, and the noise from that cavern of a trunk. The door lock mechanisms and the window regulators just sit in there and rattle. And the trunk sounds like a bass drum. Enough.
I tried out two sound dampening products this weekend - mostly because they were available locally. The first is called STP, and I used it under the rear bench seat and on the rear fender wells inside of the car. The second is Dynamat Xtreme which is sort of the household name for this kind of stuff. The STP came in large sheets and I did the whole area under the rear seat (all the way forward to the carpet) and up the rear trunk divider all the way to the top of the fender wells. That was with $88.00 of STP. I bought the Dynamat as a "2 Door Kit" and it came with about 2/3 as much material as the STP did - for $99.00. It's definitely more expensive, but all in all I'd say the Dynamat is easier to use. It is more durable when forcing it into the curves in the sheet metal (less tearing) and it seems to mold into itself (smooth where edges overlap) better than the STP. All together I probably added about 40 pounds of insulation to the car so far. The doors were a lot more fun (sitting on a stool) than the back was - crawling around on my knees in the back of the car.
I haven't driven the car since I did the insulation this weekend but I am impressed with the improvement in the doors already. They close like the doors on a new car - heavy and solid. Thunk, not crash/rattle.
Donny
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Would it have been better to roll that Dynamat on the inside of the door skin? There's access holes to get your hands in there, right now you're blocking these holes with the mat, right? Not busting your balls, just wondering...
Grabinov911
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Hey Donny,
I had intended to do as you describe originally. Then when I bought the Dynamat Door Kit, I saw that the instructions actually recommend mounting the material on the inner door skin - as I did. The cost of doing that is preventing access to the inside of the door. To overcome this I reworked a lot of the inner door workings as best I could in advance. I then figured that I could always cut away the access holes as needed in the future and replace w new Dynamat patches. It would cost some money, but I don't expect to be inside the door panels TOO often.
The benefit is that the material isolates you from the sounds INSIDE of the door. To me, it's the rattling of the door workings that was most annoying, and boy is it gone now. Six of one, half dozen of the other I figure. Only time will tell...
Greg
I had intended to do as you describe originally. Then when I bought the Dynamat Door Kit, I saw that the instructions actually recommend mounting the material on the inner door skin - as I did. The cost of doing that is preventing access to the inside of the door. To overcome this I reworked a lot of the inner door workings as best I could in advance. I then figured that I could always cut away the access holes as needed in the future and replace w new Dynamat patches. It would cost some money, but I don't expect to be inside the door panels TOO often.
The benefit is that the material isolates you from the sounds INSIDE of the door. To me, it's the rattling of the door workings that was most annoying, and boy is it gone now. Six of one, half dozen of the other I figure. Only time will tell...
Greg
Donny
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Interesting!
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Looks B-eutiful to me
- - - Updated - - -
Read through your thread and car looks great. Any updates?
I know what you mean about crash and rattle from the doors! How did you get the window frames out and re-attach? It's been a really really long time now but my 70 RR hardtop drivers door rattled like hell. I took off the door panel and did some investigating and found the culprit. The vertical post from the vent window frame goes down inside the door and secures down there. Mine was very loose, so being dumbass 17 year old i used a hose clamp and clamped it down. No more rattling or at least no more rattling from that piece. I also greased up the slides and rails crack hardware etc on all the windows so they went up and down smoothly and door locks and handle worked smoothly.
My memory is that frame had a huge rivet that held it in place that had come loose but that may be wrong. Whatever the reason I couldn't figure out how to reattach it properly so that's what I did. May have boogered it up beyond proper repair but it was much more pleasant afterward to drive and less embarrassing and annoying when i opened and shut the door. I never had that problem with any other car though.
- - - Updated - - -
Read through your thread and car looks great. Any updates?
I know what you mean about crash and rattle from the doors! How did you get the window frames out and re-attach? It's been a really really long time now but my 70 RR hardtop drivers door rattled like hell. I took off the door panel and did some investigating and found the culprit. The vertical post from the vent window frame goes down inside the door and secures down there. Mine was very loose, so being dumbass 17 year old i used a hose clamp and clamped it down. No more rattling or at least no more rattling from that piece. I also greased up the slides and rails crack hardware etc on all the windows so they went up and down smoothly and door locks and handle worked smoothly.
My memory is that frame had a huge rivet that held it in place that had come loose but that may be wrong. Whatever the reason I couldn't figure out how to reattach it properly so that's what I did. May have boogered it up beyond proper repair but it was much more pleasant afterward to drive and less embarrassing and annoying when i opened and shut the door. I never had that problem with any other car though.
Grabinov911
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The Latest...
Well I'm still on the "Things that drive me nuts" path, so I dropped the fuel tank the other day to get rid of an annoying rattle between the tank top and the trunk floor. See I decided to re-use the 40+ year old mat which goes in between cause it was "kinda cool". You should never do this. It will just fall apart and slide out from between - and it leaves an awful rattle at idle between the two pieces of sheet metal. But not any more! I know I know. Dynamat is heavy. But it's QUIET!
While I was at it I had my son and his turtle help me out with an electrical gremlin. The turtle always wants to fix everything with a hammer, but he's a good wrench...
And then I got on with my plans to try to build a car which can perform in the Silver State Classic - while staying ON the road the whole time at 100+. I recently added a Hotchkis rear sway bar which you'll see (disconnected) in the pictures (my only non-Firm Feel suspension part - too good a deal to resist) and my next move was the addition of two-position rear spring mounts and shackles from Firm Feel to go with my Firm Feel front end. Both sets of parts (Shackles, Spring Mounts) go on easily, but the spring mounts DO require disconnecting both the sway bar and the shocks to allow enough play in the axle to remove the mount from the spring. As you can see in the photos, you have to remove the spring mount from the car WITH THE SPRING STILL ATTACHED as the bolt which holds the spring runs from the inside (where it is "pinned" by the frame rail) to the outside.
The pictures of the shackles were taken before I tightened the bolts, so they appear (and are) loose.
Using the upper spring hole on the Firm Feel spring mount gave me a drop of 3/4 of an inch measured at the rear axle (Firm Feel says it's good for 1 inch) but that could be at the rear bumper. I haven't actually driven it with this change. I'm hoping for free-er rear spring travel with the new parts...
Note the piece of 3/8" steel bar stock welded to the outside of the frame rail in the last picture - pretty sure someone had a trailer hitch welded on there once!
Well I'm still on the "Things that drive me nuts" path, so I dropped the fuel tank the other day to get rid of an annoying rattle between the tank top and the trunk floor. See I decided to re-use the 40+ year old mat which goes in between cause it was "kinda cool". You should never do this. It will just fall apart and slide out from between - and it leaves an awful rattle at idle between the two pieces of sheet metal. But not any more! I know I know. Dynamat is heavy. But it's QUIET!
While I was at it I had my son and his turtle help me out with an electrical gremlin. The turtle always wants to fix everything with a hammer, but he's a good wrench...
And then I got on with my plans to try to build a car which can perform in the Silver State Classic - while staying ON the road the whole time at 100+. I recently added a Hotchkis rear sway bar which you'll see (disconnected) in the pictures (my only non-Firm Feel suspension part - too good a deal to resist) and my next move was the addition of two-position rear spring mounts and shackles from Firm Feel to go with my Firm Feel front end. Both sets of parts (Shackles, Spring Mounts) go on easily, but the spring mounts DO require disconnecting both the sway bar and the shocks to allow enough play in the axle to remove the mount from the spring. As you can see in the photos, you have to remove the spring mount from the car WITH THE SPRING STILL ATTACHED as the bolt which holds the spring runs from the inside (where it is "pinned" by the frame rail) to the outside.
The pictures of the shackles were taken before I tightened the bolts, so they appear (and are) loose.
Using the upper spring hole on the Firm Feel spring mount gave me a drop of 3/4 of an inch measured at the rear axle (Firm Feel says it's good for 1 inch) but that could be at the rear bumper. I haven't actually driven it with this change. I'm hoping for free-er rear spring travel with the new parts...
Note the piece of 3/8" steel bar stock welded to the outside of the frame rail in the last picture - pretty sure someone had a trailer hitch welded on there once!
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fmontez1
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I thought I saw a dent in the panel, turns out my monitor was dirty lol! Nice work!
Grabinov911
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New Engine!
I've been off this thread for a while and working on my "Road Racing Engine" thread, but time for an update on the build.
It's out with the old and in with the new. Here's the engine that hasn't been out of the car since '96. It looked better in the car!
And for those of you who haven't been on my other thread, the new one going in:
While I have the engine and trans out I took the opportunity to clean and reshoot the engine bay. Boy there are a lot of parts in there when you have to remove or tape them all. A buddy of mine helped me with the painting again - like everywhere else on this thread... I hate painting! I had spent hours last night taping plastic around every little wire when he showed up this morning with the best painting trick I've ever seen... TIN FOIL! It'll wrap around anything, stay without tape, stop paint and it comes off with just a tear. Take a look in the pix. GENIOUS!
We used red primer because the high-dollar orange paint doesn't cover very well, and the red "hides" under it better than gray primer did.
Yup. That's what it looks like in California in mid-November. Sort of like Mid-February, and mid-May, and mid-July...
I've been off this thread for a while and working on my "Road Racing Engine" thread, but time for an update on the build.
It's out with the old and in with the new. Here's the engine that hasn't been out of the car since '96. It looked better in the car!
And for those of you who haven't been on my other thread, the new one going in:
While I have the engine and trans out I took the opportunity to clean and reshoot the engine bay. Boy there are a lot of parts in there when you have to remove or tape them all. A buddy of mine helped me with the painting again - like everywhere else on this thread... I hate painting! I had spent hours last night taping plastic around every little wire when he showed up this morning with the best painting trick I've ever seen... TIN FOIL! It'll wrap around anything, stay without tape, stop paint and it comes off with just a tear. Take a look in the pix. GENIOUS!
We used red primer because the high-dollar orange paint doesn't cover very well, and the red "hides" under it better than gray primer did.
Yup. That's what it looks like in California in mid-November. Sort of like Mid-February, and mid-May, and mid-July...
The Roadrunner is turning into a really awesome car 
Keep up the great work. It is also my favourite model - along with the '70 GTX.
This was my '70 Roadrunner - 440ci, 4 speed, bench seat, tow bar and loads of fun back in 1987;
I'll share some resto pics on that car some day soon
Keep up the great work. It is also my favourite model - along with the '70 GTX.
This was my '70 Roadrunner - 440ci, 4 speed, bench seat, tow bar and loads of fun back in 1987;
I'll share some resto pics on that car some day soon
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Just browsed through your thread, love it! That tin foil trick is a great idea. I'll be trying that too.
HYRDGOON
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I'm respraying my engine bay while the engine swap is done this winter too and will definitely keep the tin foil in mind!
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Very Nice !!
Just went through your whole thread, for the first time!
Very Nice!! :buffer:
Just went through your whole thread, for the first time!
Very Nice!! :buffer:
Grabinov911
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Swap...
Here we go. Moving the factory stuff over to the new motor. Pretty soon she'll be "disguised" as just another dressed up 383 - with a 493 stroker hidden underneath! :icon_madu::icon_madu::icon_madu:
Yeah. I know. I need a new alternator. But I didn't want to add that project on top of this one...
Here we go. Moving the factory stuff over to the new motor. Pretty soon she'll be "disguised" as just another dressed up 383 - with a 493 stroker hidden underneath! :icon_madu::icon_madu::icon_madu:
Yeah. I know. I need a new alternator. But I didn't want to add that project on top of this one...
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l pick the one on the left and thanks for sharing
Grabinov911
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Following Propwash's engine description protocol, here's my build:
440RB to 493 balanced stroker kit Mancini Racing
Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane intake-Port matched to intake runners
Quick fuel Q850 tunes by 4 Seconds Flat
4 Seconds Flat Fuel Line and Fuel Filter
4 Seconds Flat ported and polished Carter mechanical fuel pump
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 84CC w/ valve spring work for Hydraulic Roller cam
Comp Cams Valve spring locks and retainers
Crower Hydraulic Roller-matched valve springs
Crower Custom Hydraulic Roller cam (236/236@50; 582/582 lift; LSA 110)
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.5/1 Roller Rockers
Mopar Performance HI-Vol Oil pump
440 Source Front Cover and Fluid Balancer
440 Source HI-Vol water pump
440 Source Aluminum Water pump housing
Comp Cams Magnum roller timing chain
4 Seconds Flat distributor and HR688 Electronic Ignition
MSD Plug Wires
MSD coil
7 Quart Milodon Road Racing Oil pan
Milodon pick up tube and Dipstick
Schumacher Tri-Y Ceramic coated headers
Edelbrock dropped base air cleaner which BARELY fits under the hood
Mopar Performance Valve Covers and 440 Source breather and oil cap with 440 source 1"/1.5" rubber grommet
Bouchillon Alternator and Sanden Compressor brackets w Sanden Compressor / "Heater Hose Delete"
Dynamic Proformance 727 transmission with custom 9.5" converter
Bouchillon Performance kickdown cable and bracket
Running a stock 26" radiator so far - and so good
I have no dyno numbers because with the hydraulic roller, I just dropped the motor in and drove it away. Based on the sound behind the car and the kids plugging their ears as I drive by, I'm guessing it makes about 10,000 horsepower. With the Doctor Diff 3.55 Eaton True Trac rear end I can basically spin the tires until I run out of gas. If I let off and allow the car to move, they spin again on the 1/2 shift! :icon_madu:
440RB to 493 balanced stroker kit Mancini Racing
Edelbrock Performer RPM dual plane intake-Port matched to intake runners
Quick fuel Q850 tunes by 4 Seconds Flat
4 Seconds Flat Fuel Line and Fuel Filter
4 Seconds Flat ported and polished Carter mechanical fuel pump
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 84CC w/ valve spring work for Hydraulic Roller cam
Comp Cams Valve spring locks and retainers
Crower Hydraulic Roller-matched valve springs
Crower Custom Hydraulic Roller cam (236/236@50; 582/582 lift; LSA 110)
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.5/1 Roller Rockers
Mopar Performance HI-Vol Oil pump
440 Source Front Cover and Fluid Balancer
440 Source HI-Vol water pump
440 Source Aluminum Water pump housing
Comp Cams Magnum roller timing chain
4 Seconds Flat distributor and HR688 Electronic Ignition
MSD Plug Wires
MSD coil
7 Quart Milodon Road Racing Oil pan
Milodon pick up tube and Dipstick
Schumacher Tri-Y Ceramic coated headers
Edelbrock dropped base air cleaner which BARELY fits under the hood
Mopar Performance Valve Covers and 440 Source breather and oil cap with 440 source 1"/1.5" rubber grommet
Bouchillon Alternator and Sanden Compressor brackets w Sanden Compressor / "Heater Hose Delete"
Dynamic Proformance 727 transmission with custom 9.5" converter
Bouchillon Performance kickdown cable and bracket
Running a stock 26" radiator so far - and so good
I have no dyno numbers because with the hydraulic roller, I just dropped the motor in and drove it away. Based on the sound behind the car and the kids plugging their ears as I drive by, I'm guessing it makes about 10,000 horsepower. With the Doctor Diff 3.55 Eaton True Trac rear end I can basically spin the tires until I run out of gas. If I let off and allow the car to move, they spin again on the 1/2 shift! :icon_madu:
Sonny Black
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Sonny says.....AWESOME!:notworthy:
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