883 Transmission whine

[64SF]

I recently had a shop pull the 4 speed out of my 64 Sport Fury to reseal because of leaks (the previous owner of the transmission had told me he'd replaced all the gaskets, o-rings etc. which I question now whether he was being truthful). The shop had previously did work for me on automatics and felt comfortable in their abilities.

I picked up the car (after they had difficulty in adjusting the shifting linkage), did the required adjustments and have noticed a few things that I don't recall having noticed prior to the removal, reseal and replace.

There now seems to be a whine in 1st and second gear, in downshifting from 4th to third and from second to first I'm getting a little "grind".

On the invoice they noted they refilled the case with 85W-90 (not sure if was GL4 or 5). I drained that and installed GL4-140. It seemed to quiet the whine down a little but it's still noticeable (maybe it was always there). Still get a little grind in the downshifts unless I go to neutral and double clutch.

I'm in Florida and it's alway hot....that's the primary reason I used the 140 and as I recall when I first put the transmission in that's what I used to top it off.

I've read about different gear oils and different manufactures, using ATF and etc. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated particularly regarding the whine.

Thanks

 

[steve340]

I tried ATF once and a previously quiet box seemed noisier so I gave up on that and use 80/90 gear oil. Hypoid gear oil is designed to run in a diff or gearbox and it sounds like the correct type of lube is in there.
However I believe that is probably not the issue in your case.
I would recheck the shifter adjustment and if it is still the same pull the box and send it to a company like Brewers. I say this because it sounds like something is wrong inside that gearbox.

 

[wyrmrider]

mine used to whine too
don't shift so fast
don't windime so tight in first
please please don't dump the clutch with slicks
good advice above
but check the oil speced for the late jap transs
75w85 or whatever much better stuff
synthetic xxw (low number) 75W - 140 should be fine if it synchro approved trans oil
no atf
YOU DO NOT WANT A GL-5 differential gear oil in your synchro trans
you do not want a GL4-GL5 gear oil
read the specs carefully
as I said above check for approval for late Jap trans
all US 4 speed specs T10, Ford top loader, 883- well they do not make the OEM oils anymore, haven't for years
and one size does NOT fit all

 

[wyrmrider]

not necessairly the brand you need for an 883 but the specs should be similar
https://www.amazon.com/Red-Line-503...7e-20&linkId=a1db61c83f857dc556bbc38ee0baf1e6

here's what royal purple says
"manual transmissions, and lower gear units of marine engines that specify use of an API GL-5 or GL-4 fluid."
MOPAR trans cannot use a GL-5 fluid so not OUR "manual transmissions"

I can't tell the GL rating of lucas- best to check with them on this one
Lucas Oil 10047 SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Transmission and Differential Lube -
same with this one
Lucas 75W-140 would be better as it handles heat better (for your differential) but GL-5
https://lucasoil.com/products/gear-oil/synthetic-gear-oil/lucas-sae-75w-140-synthetic-gear-oil

Since most GL-5 gear oils for differentials are too slippery for manual transmissions, Red Line offers these products that ensure proper shifting while providing ultimate wear protection
https://www.redlineoil.com/gear-oil-for-manual-transmissions

 

[AR67GTX]

Did they just replace the seals in the box - no new sycro blocking rings, bearings, etc? Possibly you need a bit more clutch release adjusted in (less free play at the top of pedal) - easy and cheap to try. Not sure I would be concerned about a little whine in lower gears - it was most likely there all along as a function of gear tooth angles. As long as it's quiet in 4th gear I would not be concerned about that part.

 

[Ranger16]

I had a slight gear clash from 1st to 2nd (especially when cold). I put the factory recommended 140 in it and had gear clash in all 4 gears. Drained it and went to 75W80. It was better, but still had the 1st to 2nd clash. I was advised to try Penzoil Syncromesh. What a difference. I'd highly recommend it.

 

[oldbee]

Sorry to say that it’s not so much the wrong weight fluid in trans. Synchros work & maybe other things(gears,brgs). Heavy weight oil will mask some of the noise.

 

[wyrmrider]

good move to a synchromesh oil
there is a lot of deception in gear oil "descriptions"
here is a real expert
https://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Transaxle.html

here is the link to the pdf in case you did not see it
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf

 

[biomedtechguy]

I would be concerned about ANY difficulty shifting and ANY noise that it didn't make before you had it serviced.
Believe me, I have some experience on the "problems" end.

 

[wyrmrider]

me too
here is the link to the pdf in case you did not see it
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
translation from corvair to mopar is easy
so much bs in oil specs- Windman sorts it out

 

[moper]

If the transmission was removed, there is a possibility that it went in slightly off where it was before, or the pilot bushing was damaged and something is putting pressure on the input shaft. All scenarios mean the trans has to come back out. It's not going to go away with oil IMO.
If it were me, I'd also have the bellhousing dial indicated to verify the alignment with the crank. It's not hard to service the manual transmissions or to rebuild them. However most "rebuilds" are not 100% complete - they replace wearable items, but not the parts those parts wore out... Most that needed to rebuilt were serviced but left with used-up gears with other new parts so they're still not right. I've never been able to re-use every hard gear in exactly the same shape as when the trans came apart. I repaired some with the permission and understanding of the owner, and others just needed to get new gears, adding four figures and time to the price.

 

[wyrmrider]

rule we had was to replace any gear that meshed with the bad gear
which meant a cluster

 

[moper]

Yup - hence the expense. The gear that was trashed, and the gear it meshed with (cluster). THAT meant "rebuilt". I got mine both new and/or refurbished from Passon years ago. I haven't done one in probably 15 years. They really don't go bad unless the owner can't shift but thinks they can.