!970 Satellite/ GTX restoration project

[99ss]

Yeah I see what your saying but I'm going to be positive about it

I poked it real hard with a big screwdriver all over the place and there is a lot of solid metal left but we'll see...LOL
Yes the paint stripper and pad and wire wheels are for small areas. I will try and save money though where ever I can and if that means more elbow grease then so be it.
I figure to spend about $1500 on a welder and bits and stuff... but the bulk of that is the welder and its an asset that can be sold if need be.
I will be doing all the work myself so labor is free...LOL

That back window area will be the worst.. its all rotted with the quarters so it will be a lot of work and the most expensive part of the fix. But I'll take it one step at a time and keep from getting discourage as best I can. The frame rails looked fine to be honest, there is no salt on the roads out here... Yes its got majore rust in some areas but from the doors forward is real nice .. only reason I bought it really. If radiator suppport and stuff was rotted I would not have bought the car.

As far as the floor pan wont it be a lot harder to install it as a one piece?

I talked to the blaster he said about $750 .. does that sound reasonable?

 

[Donny]

that price depends on how much he's going to do...that's about right for an outside only job, but inside upside down, etc it will run about 2500.00 for everything...all parts, everything, on a rotisserie -- at least that is what I would charge, but, I am the best Media Blaster period. I've seen the stuff on Overhaulin' come back from their media blaster; garbage! I'm my own worst critic too. Good luck!

 

[99ss]

Yeah that was inside and out, he said to remove the windows and dash and engine.
He's been where he is at while and I'm sure owns the land and house and shop outright, he does all the blasting in town so I hope its a decent job.... if there are areas to touch up I have the small blaster at home so I think we can get it done.... I hope anyway....LOL I'll post it up right after though so you can critique it.....hahahaha

 

[63RedFury]

Looks like a Mid Western car.You are in Oregon why not start with a more solid car?

 

[Donny]

As I said, good luck man, hope it all works out, really! I charge by the hour, I hit rust and bondo, that takes more time, sounds too cheap, is he using sand?

 

[99ss]

Looks like a Mid Western car.You are in Oregon why not start with a more solid car?

Its all I could find for decent money. I have a 79 z28 that I was restoring but saw this one day and got it cheap enough to make me want to buy it. I need to sell the z28 and use the money to buy the sheet metal for the Satellite.

Yes I think he is using sand. How do they dip a car?

 

[welder47]

You sould be able to find a .023 miller gas mig welder 110 volt. I see them all the time barely used for about 400.00 with cart and gas bottle. Its more than adequate for rebuilding a car and welds thin metal good. A plasma cutter is the more expensive thing and I could never get by without one of those, Your going to be cutting alot of metal off that car for sure beats the hell out of a gas torch or grinder and cuts so precise if you use it right. Any way thats just two of the tools I use all the time.

 

[99ss]

The 110 welder is ok ? I heard that it overloads the circuit all the time ? OR is that people who dont wire in a 20 amp set up? I was going in that direction at first with a Hobart?

 

[detmatt1]

$750 sounds like a great deal, I would jump on it, I paid a $1,000 for having the whole car done and they did a nice job. If you can remove some of the rotten metal before taking it to be blasted that would be a good thing. Not major parts as you don't want to jeopardize the structural integrity of the car, but there is no sense in blasting a bunch of rotten metal that you will be removing any way. I actually replaced all of the rusted metal on mine and then had it blasted and put in primer before the final installation of the outer sheet metal.

 

[99ss]

$750 sounds like a great deal, I would jump on it, I paid a $1,000 for having the whole car done and they did a nice job. If you can remove some of the rotten metal before taking it to be blasted that would be a good thing. Not major parts as you don't want to jeopardize the structural integrity of the car, but there is no sense in blasting a bunch of rotten metal that you will be removing any way. I actually replaced all of the rusted metal on mine and then had it blasted and put in primer before the final installation of the outer sheet metal.

I was thinking the same thing to be honest just blast what I intend to keep.
Can I cut the rear quarters off and still be ok stable wise? The gutters apear to be solid and the inner wheelhouses as well. The fenders I'll take off and look to do some of that stiffening as well.

Just wondering how much I can cut off and still be good to go?

 

[welder47]

I use the 110 all the time for thin metal, 220 is nice for thick stuff, your circuits should be fine. Just read the specs, Almost all welders have less than 100 percent duty cycle, in other words you cannot use a welder continuously with no cool off time. Miller and the other lead names have decent duty cycles, I never have overrun the welders duty cycle even when welding hard.

 

[99ss]

I use the 110 all the time for thin metal, 220 is nice for thick stuff, your circuits should be fine. Just read the specs, Almost all welders have less than 100 percent duty cycle, in other words you cannot use a welder continuously with no cool off time. Miller and the other lead names have decent duty cycles, I never have overrun the welders duty cycle even when welding hard.

Cool, thank you for the info. The 110 is cheaper by like $200 and I don't really plane on doing any serious fabrication other than sheet metal.
Is the Hobart OK? Its less money the the miller but seems to have decent customer reviews.. its about 350 less than the miller-matic but that miller 140 has got me interested I will say that, it was either that or the 180

 

[welder47]

Mines a 135 which now would probably be the 140 now, dont know hobarts much. Infinate wire speed and voltage control is ver nice to have. Not sure if hobart has that. I do know my miller has never broken down once. Also go with the bigger wire roll right off dont mess with the little ones, they just run out when you really need to use them. A purge feature is nice if you can get it, sends gas through the hose when first starting on the job so you arent starting a first weld on just air which really messes up a bead for a few seconds. I just push my switch and cut the wire on the first starup.

 

[99ss]

Yea thats the matic part of the miller matic and its what drew me to them over the Lincoln and then Hobart was less money and seemed to have good review but 7 settings and its not automatic like the Miller... price difference isnt huge, only 200 so I'm pretty sure the Miller-matic 140 is what I'll do. I've been looking for a used one but they get snatched up pretty quick and cragslist is hit or miss for honesty and I like new with a warranty to be honest when it comes to moving parts.

 

[detmatt1]

Yea thats the matic part of the miller matic and its what drew me to them over the Lincoln and then Hobart was less money and seemed to have good review but 7 settings and its not automatic like the Miller... price difference isnt huge, only 200 so I'm pretty sure the Miller-matic 140 is what I'll do. I've been looking for a used one but they get snatched up pretty quick and cragslist is hit or miss for honesty and I like new with a warranty to be honest when it comes to moving parts.

I use the Miller 140 and have no complaints, great machine! I got VERY lucky and found one new in the box on Craigslist and got it well below wholesale. If you haven't allready, you should take a look at some of the threads in the "members projects and restoration" forum. Lot's of very valueable info and pics that should answer all of your questions for you. Mine is currently active and is known as the "JUNKYARD DOG" but also check out Propwash and Donny's threads as well as several more.

 

[99ss]

Not a B body but I'm honing my talents before I tackle it...
Port matched and painted

Had to replace my LS7 intake which was painted a nice Sunset Orange metallic. So I opted for the FAST 102 LSXr. Since the previous intake was painted I had to do the same to this

This intake was primered, sealed and then base-coated with Galaxy Grey. Then a mid-coat with apricot flake was applied.. lightly flaked.
Then 7 layers of Tangerine Kandy and then clear.
Approximately 18 hrs to port, prep and paint.

Ports are off

You can see how much material needs to be removed

Removing letters

!FAST LSXr

Almost ready for primer

Galaxy grey

Mid coat with Apricot flake

1st coat Tangerine Kandy

2nd

3rd

4th

5th

6th

7 Coats Tangerine Kandy cleared and done

 

[99ss]

Putting the Painless harness in to see if I can drive this thing for a bit before restoring itl.
Looks to be all wired correctly... the ignition part of it is all I have in right now to see if I can get it to start. I am using an MSD ready to run dist and blaster coil and bypassing the ballst resistor.... so far its a no go....LOL Not sure but I think maybye the trans safety switch .. is it a ground and can it be bypassed?
the starter relay shows it as a G for the terminal... I get power to the relay from the yellow wire when you push the key forward to engage the starter.. but the starter doesnt turn on...? all the wires seem to be correct. anyone? the relay isnt self ground is it?

 

[The Satellite Cometh]

Dude....moss amongst the sheet metal!

Priceless.

Good luck on it, bring her back from the dead.

 

[99ss]

GOT IT RUNNING !!

Strapped a 2 gallon gas tank under the hood for fuel, the tank needs to be pulled and inspected and the line blown= out or new lines...
The brakes are stiff as hell but still work so I'll be going through them at the same time I'm doing the gas lines.. the engine purred like a kitten and really reved pretty damn strong... I think it will be good for while.
I'll post some pics... I'll do the dash and light wiring next.. this painless kit real is pretty decent.. the more dirt you scrape off this thing the better it looks... I do need the trunk right away though in order to drive it.. the drivers floor and passenger are freed Flintstones as well but a quick patch until i really restore her will do the trick for now.. the car is being pressed into service as I have no cars right now. The 79 z28 blew the engine and the 99 SS has the engine out for inspection.. and I cant afford to pay for the rental for ever.. so I'm getting this legal to drive for now.. its the only car I have with a good ruining engine in it right now...LOL

 

[99ss]

gas tank out... know where all the fluid came from now..LOL Need an effin gas tank in a hurry what direction to go in? OEM or aftermarket ? where to get?