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A833 identification

68Satellite440

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Hey guys,
Picked up what I believe to be a 1970 4-speed, but I don’t know what it came out of, or if it’s possible to identify that.
The photos below is all I’ve taken so far. Just curious if its identifiable by the ID pad.
It shifts thru all gears smoothly and clean inside. My buddy has had it for over 20 years in a shipping container.
It had been adapted and bolted up to a 400sbc in a 67 Chevelle.
Didn’t even know that was possible.

54549A04-CD29-4342-BA9D-8535D468079D.jpeg


E095414C-1D4A-49D7-86D5-302FAE537463.jpeg


03CBF8FA-EC85-43FC-8AF0-3C8C9ECDD247.jpeg
 
Hey guys,
Picked up what I believe to be a 1970 4-speed, but I don’t know what it came out of, or if it’s possible to identify that.
The photos below is all I’ve taken so far. Just curious if its identifiable by the ID pad.
It shifts thru all gears smoothly and clean inside. My buddy has had it for over 20 years in a shipping container.
It had been adapted and bolted up to a 400sbc in a 67 Chevelle.
Didn’t even know that was possible.

View attachment 1697275

View attachment 1697276

View attachment 1697277

Looks like a 1970 b/e 4 speed (3099). Is it 18 or 23 input spline? Not sure if it can be identified by the partial vin but if it's 18 spline you'll know it came out of something with a 440 or hemi.
 
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Looks like a 1970 b/e 4 speed (3099). Is it 18 or 23 input spline? Not sure if it can be identified by the partial vin but if it's 18 spline you'll know it came out of something with a 440 or hemi.
I haven’t counted it yet.
So 23 is small block and 18 is big block? I don’t know anything about these hardly.
 
Also, the tip of the input shaft is shortened for use behind a Chevy. Very common back in the day, as these transmissions are much stronger than Muncies. A shortened tip might not reach the pilot bushing in a Mopar crank. Something to be aware of before you purchase.
 
I haven’t counted it yet.
So 23 is small block and 18 is big block? I don’t know anything about these hardly.

In 1970 the 23 spline input is slant 6, small block and 383. 18 spline is 440 and Hemi.

It does look like the input is cut. It may still be able to use a roller bearing that fits in the crank bore. Richard Ehrenberg, former tech guy at Mopar Action sells them on eBay.
 
A lot of engines that came with automatic transmissions didn't have the crank bored for pilot bushings so it was pretty common to cut the end off the input shaft and use a pilot bearing. Here's another thread about it and there are more if you use the site search function. Also that bearing in the second link. And 23 splines were used and will work in big blocks too. It's just that the 440 and 426 got the beefier 18 spline.


 
A lot of engines that came with automatic transmissions didn't have the crank bored for pilot bushings so it was pretty common to cut the end off the input shaft and use a pilot bearing. Here's another thread about it and there are more if you use the site search function. Also that bearing in the second link. And 23 splines were used and will work in big blocks too. It's just that the 440 and 426 got the beefier 18 spline.

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Could you dumb this down for me? I’ve never installed a 4 speed and not even close to knowing all the necessary order of components in install.
What is the purpose of this pilot bearing and bushing?
Im trying to visualize everything to understand what parts are working together.
 
Could you dumb this down for me? I’ve never installed a 4 speed and not even close to knowing all the necessary order of components in install.
What is the purpose of this pilot bearing and bushing?
Im trying to visualize everything to understand what parts are working together.
The front shaft of the trans (input shaft) fits into a hole in the back of the crank. In this hole is a bushing that keeps it centered and from slopping around. This would be for an original 4-speed and engine. On other engines (mostly meant to be behind an automatic trans) the crank is NOT drilled for this bushing, and so the 4-speed input shaft cannot be inserted far enough to draw the engine and trans together.

Solution in this case are to drill the crank for a stock bushing, ....or install a bearing in the larger diameter hole in the back of the crank that alternately supports the input shaft. In some cases the end of the trans input shaft will have to be cut off, and in some case it will fit. This will depend on how the factory originally drilled the crank for whatever engine you are mating your 4-speed to.
 
The front shaft of the trans (input shaft) fits into a hole in the back of the crank. In this hole is a bushing that keeps it centered and from slopping around. This would be for an original 4-speed and engine. On other engines (mostly meant to be behind an automatic trans) the crank is NOT drilled for this bushing, and so the 4-speed input shaft cannot be inserted far enough to draw the engine and trans together.

Solution in this case are to drill the crank for a stock bushing, ....or install a bearing in the larger diameter hole in the back of the crank that alternately supports the input shaft. In some cases the end of the trans input shaft will have to be cut off, and in some case it will fit. This will depend on how the factory originally drilled the crank for whatever engine you are mating your 4-speed to.
Thank you for taking the time to break that down for me.
Never gotten to take one apart to see for myself.

Question, if this trans came out of a B/E body, what is the difference for A-body other than shifter locations?
Is there any size/length difference? Could it be put into an A-body?
 
Thank you for taking the time to break that down for me.
Never gotten to take one apart to see for myself.

Question, if this trans came out of a B/E body, what is the difference for A-body other than shifter locations?
Is there any size/length difference? Could it be put into an A-body?

The A-body 833 has a shorter tail shaft than B/E so your trans is not a bolt in to an A-body. In could be installed, but would take custom fabrication. Probably not something you want to attempt.
 
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