Thinking of carrying one of these and a fire extinguisher. Emergency Fire Blanket
I got very very lucky, the a12 Roadrunner which I inherited from my father many years ago ran on points up until just about middle of 2022, I guess being that it isn't a 12 car when I removed the points voltage regulator and ballast resistor there were no additional holes drilled into the firewall, and I'm also a purist I apologize for that I used no additional ground straps for the ECU which I still run and everything seem to just bolt right in I got very very lucky!As the title states I'm adding electronic ignition to a 70 GTX 440 4bbl. I would like to mount the new component(s) in the correct spot(s).New wiring harness is installed. Ballast resistor and ECU need mounted. Can someone explain or post a pic of where they mount?
TIA
(Purest alert!!) As far as my car "A12" Roadrunner which my father bought new I finally made the decision in 2022, I got tired of replacing dual points, and did not want ANY extra or additional bolt holes in the firewall in case something bad happened and I had to let go of the car one day. I got very very lucky that my father had not installed anything aftermarket on the car between the time he bought it and the time I inherited it so here's how mine turned out with the original points ballast resistor and voltage regulator when I installed the ECU, I just let the bolt itself ground to the firewall, I figured the worst thing that can happen it was would be to burn up the ecu? Or I'd have to install a ground strap on the inside/Behind the firewall under the dash (behind Glove Box liner) from the inside where it couldn't be seen. (individual results May Vary)As the title states I'm adding electronic ignition to a 70 GTX 440 4bbl. I would like to mount the new component(s) in the correct spot(s).New wiring harness is installed. Ballast resistor and ECU need mounted. Can someone explain or post a pic of where they mount?
TIA
Perhaps you should consider "uncorking" or uncapping the primary carb's bowl vent to eliminate any possibility of fuel vapor build up and causing a percolator or hot soak issue. Better open to the atmosphere rather than capped. It looks as if you're using the "aftermarket" HOLLEY carbs, rather than OEM.....give away...hex head bowl attachment screws plus connect the supply wire to the fast or hot idle solenoid.....just looks more authentic.....but that's just my opinion...of course......(Purest alert!!) As far as my car "A12" Roadrunner which my father bought new I finally made the decision in 2022, I got tired of replacing dual points, and did not want ANY extra or additional bolt holes in the firewall in case something bad happened and I had to let go of the car one day. I got very very lucky that my father had not installed anything aftermarket on the car between the time he bought it and the time I inherited it so here's how mine turned out with the original points ballast resistor and voltage regulator when I installed the ECU, I just let the bolt itself ground to the firewall, I figured the worst thing that can happen it was would be to burn up the ecu? Or I'd have to install a ground strap on the inside/Behind the firewall under the dash (behind Glove Box liner) from the inside where it couldn't be seen. (individual results May Vary)
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WHY?? The '70 GTX 440 4bbl engine will run very well with the standard single point distributor up to 5500 RPM. As an upgrade, consider going to the Prestolite Dual point distributor as used on the 440 six barrel engine and Hemi engine. Just recurve the distributor to provide ~ 22° Degrees @ 12-15° distributor advance all in by 2400 RPM. This is what I use in my RS23VOA****** '70 GTX. I can run the engine to ~ 6000 RPM. It starts smoothy idles at 1200 RPM, You will not gain anything by switching to electronic ignition except the real possibility of the system crapping out, leaving you stranded. I just install new points and condenser every 3-4 years.....just read the threads regarding all the electronic ignition system troubles experienced by others. @HALLIFAXHOPS can supply all the OEM points/condensers, cap, rotors you'll need and ignition parts in general.......just my opinion......As the title states I'm adding electronic ignition to a 70 GTX 440 4bbl. I would like to mount the new component(s) in the correct spot(s).New wiring harness is installed. Ballast resistor and ECU need mounted. Can someone explain or post a pic of where they mount?
TIA
Put it under your horns on the right front frame rail, and run the wiring harness up to the distributor with the horn/alternator harness. Almost invisible.I just installed the electronic ignition box on my Charger. No available real estate on the firewall with factory air. I found just enough room on the inner fender, and yes it clears the hood hinge.
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I'm well aware of your reasons ...but...only recently has electronic ignition become envogue....in search of easy HP increases....for an occasional use vehicle... IMO...there is no advantage of changing to an electronic ignition system. In my example, once the points are set and the timing set, there is no additional tweeking involved. BTW...dwell time relates to the TIME it takes to build the magnetic field in the coil's primary the coil's inductive reactance (combined with it's capacitive reactance) determines the energy generated. To each his own volition....my Cadillac Escalade has more electronics than the Apollo 11 Lander.....the best of both old and new worlds.....IMHO...
The electric ignition has multiple advantages over the traditional analog points.
These are:
1. Points are mechanical switches, every time they open & close there is a small spark which over time builds up the contact surface corrupting the contact reliability.
2. Points have a rubbing block(normally plastic) and as it rides on the distributor cam will wear changing the gap. Changing the gap affects both the timing and dwell angle. Note that the dwell angle determines how much energy was stored in the coil, too short may cause a misfire.
3. The points spring can weaken over time which will decrease the higher RPM limits, and again possible misfires.
In closing, I do agree keeping the OE point system is desireable for maintaining the Mopar factory-like OE appearance, but if the user wants reliability and consistent operation without frequent adjustments/tweaking the electronic ignition system is a valuable and viable upgrade.
Just my $0.02...