Adjustable pinion snubber from Mancini. Got one coming and ??

[biomedtechguy]

The extended length shocks that you picked out should help with that too.

The 3 way adjustable rear shocks are on their way: CEE-2730
So...are those "extended length" ??
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2730
I will order the QA1 or Viking 2 way/2 dial front shocks tomorrow.

 

[LemonWedge]

My opinion: Don’t bother with the cheap C-E shocks. Whatever you have now is likely just as good. I ran the same shocks (summit branded 3-ways) with my Cal-track setup for a few years. Car would lift in the rear pretty badly. I just didnt like the way the car left, whole thing would raise up. I purchased a full set of Calvert shocks; like a different car. It now transfers weight and will lift the front tires.

 

[biomedtechguy]

My opinion: Don’t bother with the cheap C-E shocks. Whatever you have now is likely just as good. I ran the same shocks (summit branded 3-ways) with my Cal-track setup for a few years. Car would lift in the rear pretty badly. I just didnt like the way the car left, whole thing would raise up. I purchased a full set of Calvert shocks; like a different car. It now transfers weight and will lift the front tires.

They're already enroute.

 

[440 mike]

The 3 way adjustable rear shocks are on their way: CEE-2730
So...are those "extended length" ??
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cee-2730
I will order the QA1 or Viking 2 way/2 dial front shocks tomorrow.

At 23 inch, yes they are. The stock length shocks will run out of travel and unload the suspension with the SS spring and snubber set up.

 

[biomedtechguy]

440 Mike
to all of you who are helping me on the Racers Forum

 

[383man]

I used a snubber when I had the original old springs on my 63. But when I went to SS springs I left it off. I put it back on one day and found out it did not help at all with my new SS springs on the car so I don't use it at all anymore. And my car is a street car I race now and then. Many Mopar racers used them for years so its no problem if you want to use it. Just if you set it to close to the floor it my hit the floor sometimes driving on the street. When I ran mine I set it about and inch away on the street and moved to about 1/2" when racing. Ron

 

[doublekrossd]

I've got one on my car and am contemplating taking it off due to it beating the snot out of the bottom of the car on the street, even adjusted all the way in, about 3/4" from the floorboard

 

[miller]

Depends on the condition of your springs, too. Mine are 3400 lb SS.
Homemade adjustable snubber, one inch from floorpan. Even on bumpy roads, no contact. Yes, the rear is stiff.

 

[67 coronet]

spring rates will make a big diff on your adjustment. i would start at about 1 inch for street and adjust from there. thats the whole point of getting an adjustable snuber.

 

[elevensies]

i had a plate welded to the underside of my old car to strengthen it up
mine was about 1/4 inch from floor.
i ran it for a while then moved onto slapper bars with ss springs
improved my 60' so for me slappers worked better.

 

[Darter6]

The old days,, The seminars(early 70's) that Chrysler did, we were told for ''racing'', automatic cars touching the floor.For stick cars 1'' from the floor. Both cars sitting static. We were also told to remove them when using Super Stock Springs. I ran them with and without and found no difference using SS springs. Something that has been debated for the last 50 years.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Had a bad track day, only 2 runs. On the first run I heard a rubbing sound that seemed driveshaft related because of the frequency. Looked but didn't see anything. Made a 2nd run, hit the gas too hard off the line, blew the tires up in smoke and the noise got really bad...Turns out the pinion snubber bent on the first run, then more on the 2nd. I removed the snubber at the track and that was the source of the noise, it was rubbing on the pinion yoke.
440 6bbl close to stock. Traction not that good. I know others are putting WAY more force on their snubbers, at least from a horsepower/torque standpoint, with better tires and traction.
Talked to Mancini and sent pix. I don't understand how this could have happened.

 

[Ski 61701]

I went to bolt mine on , and low and behold the bolt spacing on my 8.75 is too wide for the adjustable snubber. Its a 742 case so I am not sure whats going on. Anyone else have this problem?

 

[MOPOWER871]

Ran a snubber for years on my 4 speed roadrunner. when I went to back half the car we discovered that the area surrounding the contact pad about 10 inches from center had developed two stress cracks about 6" long nothing dangerous but a testament to the repeated pounding that pad must have been getting

 

[beanhead]

I went to bolt mine on , and low and behold the bolt spacing on my 8.75 is too wide for the adjustable snubber. Its a 742 case so I am not sure whats going on. Anyone else have this problem?

Never had that problem, can you drill new/elongate the holes, or is the snubber too narrow to even do that? The problem I've had is modifying them to be a little shorter...the Mopar Performance one was too tall, even on the lowest setting

 

[beanhead]

Had a bad track day, only 2 runs. On the first run I heard a rubbing sound that seemed driveshaft related because of the frequency. Looked but didn't see anything. Made a 2nd run, hit the gas too hard off the line, blew the tires up in smoke and the noise got really bad...Turns out the pinion snubber bent on the first run, then more on the 2nd. I removed the snubber at the track and that was the source of the noise, it was rubbing on the pinion yoke.
440 6bbl close to stock. Traction not that good. I know others are putting WAY more force on their snubbers, at least from a horsepower/torque standpoint, with better tires and traction.
Talked to Mancini and sent pix. I don't understand how this could have happened.

..That is weird, I can't imagine bending the baseplate of the snubber down onto the yolk like that..unless it was just plain defective. I have smashed the crap out if them to where the snubber has broken on top, that's usually what gives first

 

[biomedtechguy]

..That is weird, I can't imagine bending the baseplate of the snubber down onto the yolk like that..unless it was just plain defective. I have smashed the crap out if them to where the snubber has broken on top, that's usually what gives first

Thanks for the reply. I am baffled myself. The bracket/snubber seems to be heavy gauge steel. I know that they are used on cars with more grunt under the hood and better grip in the tires, so I would think those see more force applied to them.
My only guess at this point is noodle-like springs, but I don't have any indication of that from wierd ride effects or "spongy" feel. They are the ones that come on high performance B-Bodies, with the extra 1 1/2 leaf on the passenger side (cool Mopar engineering-again). They have what look like factory clamps in the front and rear of the axle.
Not massively bent, and wasn't bent this bad on the first run, but it went from not rubbing at all on the drive there to rubbing as soon as I left the line on my 1st of 2 runs and the rubbing on the 2nd run had me really worried it was so loud.
I REALLY need to get my line lock installed too. These Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials are LIGHT YEARS ahead of the BF Goodrich T/A radials I had, but the T/A s weren't much other than fun to spin, but "spinning ain't winning".

 

[BSB67]

Had a bad track day, only 2 runs. On the first run I heard a rubbing sound that seemed driveshaft related because of the frequency. Looked but didn't see anything. Made a 2nd run, hit the gas too hard off the line, blew the tires up in smoke and the noise got really bad...Turns out the pinion snubber bent on the first run, then more on the 2nd. I removed the snubber at the track and that was the source of the noise, it was rubbing on the pinion yoke.
440 6bbl close to stock. Traction not that good. I know others are putting WAY more force on their snubbers, at least from a horsepower/torque standpoint, with better tires and traction.
Talked to Mancini and sent pix. I don't understand how this could have happened.

I've had that happen too. Those purchased ones are junk. Great big sturdy riser welded to a flimsy stamping. I make my own now.

 

[Ski 61701]

Never had that problem, can you drill new/elongate the holes, or is the snubber too narrow to even do that? The problem I've had is modifying them to be a little shorter...the Mopar Performance one was too tall, even on the lowest setting

I could try and elongate the holes its as if after I put one bolt in the other hole is over half off the hole on the pinion snout. After reading about how the other member bent his, kinda leery on opening the holes up and the snubber moving around on me.

 

[Darter6]

Ski, maybe you got one for a 8 1/4 as they have a different bolt spacing than the 8 3/4. Maybe.