Alignment Issues

[4406bbl]

When I had mine on the frame machine we got every frame point within 1/16" 1/4" is factory spec. I had to swap my k-frame because it was stamped and welded crooked putting the left front tire back 5/8", k- frame strut socket was out but looked fine, anyway these k-frames can vary a ton. Level the car by the rockers, a 4 foot level top or bottom works. Plot your frame points with a plumb bob and see what you have. For alignment it is best to support it by the rear axle, level the car by the front k- frame, then plot your rear axle center, then lower ball joint, or front spindle center. Back the t-bars off to simulate your ride height with jacks or stands. I would want the rear-end straight to the frame and lower ball joints exactly the same distance to the rear axle. 1/4" forward or back is about 1 degree ballpark. I use a sharp pencil on the floor, then chalk line it to be more accurate. I don't have a 64 manual but here are 1970 specs and the instructions, the figures really do not matter, just that they are the same side to side and you use the same points.

 

[Charlie Brown]

I'm getting conflicting views on how to use this gauge. Some instructions say to first turn front of wheel in ( http://www.tpub.com/basae/241.htm ) and some instructions say to turn front of wheel out first. So my question is, does anyone know for sure of the correct way to use the gauge I have? The gauge I have is a Blue Point / Snap On. The other similar gauges ( Sealey, Longacre) look similar, but are configured slightly differently (scales reversed etc.). If someone has the same gauge as I have, I'd appreciate the proper setup or better yet, a copy of the original instructions.