Alternator Replacement

[Tyron68]

I need to replace my alternator. It’s on a 1969 charger, 383, AC car (double groove pulley). Any recommendations on a good replacement?

 

[ykf7b0]

I suggest NAPA.

 

[dadsbee]

I'd go two blocks down from my place and let my local guy rebuild what I had...

 

[WileE]

Rebuild the one you have. If you have a local rebuilder. If not, Central Jersey Starter & Alternator.

Central Jersey Starter​

1809 State Route 35, South Amboy, NJ 08879
(732) 727-4486

 

[RJRENTON]

I need to replace my alternator. It’s on a 1969 charger, 383, AC car (double groove pulley). Any recommendations on a good replacement?

IMO....rebuild it yourself. As it's 1969 vintage, it is likely that the brushes need replaced. If it's charging at all, the diodes are probably OK, along with the stator and rotor windings. Very likely the front bearing is going bad (noisy). This bearing is a 6203RSS single row sealed, both sides ball bearing like SKF, RBC, etc. The rear bearing is a Torrington or SKF caged needle roller bearing. Bearing costs at $10 - $15. Alternators are simple devices.....a "rebuilt" unit will be a crap shoot and you'll pay ~ $80 - $100 at the parts store and get the same thing as doing it yourself for the cost of parts.....plus the experience. Refer to the Factory Service Manual for the information..........just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Why do you need to replace it? Went bad and stopped to charge or noise?

As mentioned, it could be serviced at home with basic tools. Diodes, stator and rotor can be diagnosed with a regular multitester. No rocket science on these.

I would go HOWEVER (as usually advice) with an alt upgrade though, getting an unit able to provide more juice.

 

[Tyron68]

Why do you need to replace it? Went bad and stopped to charge or noise?

As mentioned, it could be serviced at home with basic tools. Diodes, stator and rotor can be diagnosed with a regular multitester. No rocket science on these.

I would go HOWEVER (as usually advice) with an alt upgrade though, getting a unit able to provide more juice.

It stopped charging. What would be an upgrade to the stock one? Something bigger than 60amp?

 

[icetech]

I am honestly curious about something... Why more amps over a lower amp alt that charges fine, has no problem with lights and all that.. unless you are running stuff that needs a ton of power (stereo) why the need for bigger?

 

[dadsbee]

Zero need.

That said, "alternator stopped charging". Is it the voltage regulator, wiring or the actual alternator? Full field that alternator and see it if comes to life....

 

[ykf7b0]

It stopped charging. What would be an upgrade to the stock one? Something bigger than 60amp?

As previously stated, if 60amps are doing the job then "upgrading" to more amps isn't necessary but could be sketchy because your wiring might not be able to handle the extra amperage.

 

[zyzzyx]

Buy a Denso alternator that is internally regulated and buy the bracket kit from Mancini. You'll never
have a problem with it and it will charge at an idle!

 

[RJRENTON]

Buy a Denso alternator that is internally regulated and buy the bracket kit from Mancini. You'll never
have a problem with it and it will charge at an idle! View attachment 1761749View attachment 1761750

Please supply the specifics (model number, rating, sheave diameter, etc) on the Denso unit you installed. I'd like to learn a little more about it.....thanks....
BOB RENTON

 

[zyzzyx]

I'm going with a Denso 210-0106 which is internally regulated and the Mancini MREAR019 bracket kit.
It's a 60A alternator and it charges @ idle. Put it on & forget it. If you have alot of accessories, you may
need a bigger Amp alternator. Just my thoughts.

 

[RJRENTON]

View attachment 1761814View attachment 1761815

THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION....it is appreciated.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Nacho-RT74]

It stopped charging. What would be an upgrade to the stock one? Something bigger than 60amp?

Is not the max output what is the important, but the capacity at iddle. Of course the max output indicates it will charge more at iddle, but also depends on design.

If going with an original Mopar stock look alt, something able to source around 40-50 amps at iddle, which tipically are the 78-80 amps alts, from the 80s. These are a revised version of the squareback alts. Are also a bit wider (something like 2-3 millimeters), and sometimes requires a bit of trimming on spacers and could require a couple of inches longer belts to sway the alt from the block. You can find these on US$50-80 on parts dealers

How much are you pointing to invest?

For US$150-180 you can go for a higher performance alt offered by TuffStuff, PowerMaster and some others and get a 100 amps alt which even being tipically also squarebacks, will fit and match better, being tipically the older squareback version “double field” (just need to ground one of the fields to match your 68 if still have the “single field” setup). These tipically are able to provide 60-65 amps at iddle.

Then you can go with Nippondenso, ACDelco alts (and some others) which also tipically performs better than the stock Chrysler alts at iddle still being lower max output than the stock Chrysler by its stator design.

I guess also some local shops are able to upgrade your own alt without need to get a HiPo alt. I know some are able to make it.

About what has been mentioned on the “wiring” upgrade, could be or could be not necessary or mandatory, although adviced. It all depends on your setup.

If your wiring is in very good/pristine conditions, could be not necessary at least at first instance (although as mentioned, adviced). Your car load request WON’T change by a higher output alt, and IN FACT will be reduced, due the reduce of the battery discharged constant stage what takes to a reduce of the total output request to the alt. You are increasing the average load sourcing efficiency, which doesn’t mean the max load sourcing level.

With a higher output alt, your battery load request will be reduced in average without need to get the engine revving up to get the enough output from alt to be able to get the batt recharged. This saves high peaks of charging status and keeps a WAY lower average request for total load, reducing the load through the system. Hence opposite what ppl thinks, a higher output alt is SAFER for all the main wiring network.

More than the wiring itself need, is more the paths upgrade. Bulkhead is a weak spot. But also is good to check for ammeter studs conditions (outside AND INSIDE). After 50+ years of abuse, is time to check for the ammeter conditions since is a critical path for the full load sourcing side to side (critical doesn’t mean dangerous by default).

Several threads about this if you make a search. The last one is stickied on board. But some older others enters in more details and hard discussions.

And NO ACCS must be sourced from batt post if ammeter is present on the system. After the lack of power coming out from stock alts, this is the second source for troubles on factory Charging system.

On a side note and repeating the info, your alt could quit to charge not by an internal fail, but something to basic as a brush fail ( easy to fix from exterior ), regulator fail, field wire fail as some members have mentioned. So check for the basics first to be sure if you need a new unit or rebuilt. But the upgrade is something to consider in the close future if not an immediate change.