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Ammeter bypass

There's several techniques that I have seen performed and all work well. I have never fully duplicated the MAD Ammeter Bypass. I try not to cut and splice too much. I also only solder my electrical connections. Here is one of my (unedited) videos that I need to put on my blog someday soon that might help you with the bypass.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AksXImgz5jdyjFNdx5ZNA433_7UA?e=0axqV1

Next electrical improvement is the @Crackedback headlight relay.
 
Billccm,
That is a fantastic video you made which could save many cars on this forum from extinction. You discuss a voltage drop from 16 to 14. I had a HUGE voltage drop from around 25 volts to 14 volts. Had I not caught it earlier it could have been pretty bad. I may replace my "parallel" path from the alternator to starter relay with an 8-12 gauge cable like you did; I think mine is closer to 16 gauge. A larger diameter, lower resistance cable would be better but I used something quick that I had in a bin. Please show more of your videos; they are clear and easy to understand.
 
PS, I've done the headlight relay upgrade and you'll be amazed how much brighter your headlights will be. I took before and after photos and will share them if I can find them on my hard drive (it's been about 18 months or so)...
 
Can I say the way you are modifying the wiring is getting the power into the cab to the MAIN splice by just ONE path, still being the weakest point on bulkhead?

And the 12 gauge fuse link is a mistake. Shouldn't be more than 14... althought is incorrectly placed anyway. Alternator doesn't need fuse link, but the batt source does. Why? Because in a short, the only device able to source it is the batt. The alternative alternator wiring fuse link makes nothing there. Won't damage being there but is not really usefull.

Voltage drop doesn't mean HEAT! Mistake on concept. Voltage drop can be a consecuence of many things, but not a cause. The cause ( or one of them, being the one explained on this ) is the connections conditions, which makes resistance, causing heat and voltage drop. However Voltage drop can be also cause of lack of amperes flowing, which also causes heat, being due resistance allong the paths, or the lack of power. This is actually the reason why we see many ECUs melting his back filler, due the lack of power ( AMPERES, NOT VOLTAGE ) coming from stock alternators.

Voltage can go throught one hair without fail, but amperes needs bigger and safer paths. So PER WHAT I COULD SEE on video you cut from two paths to single path into the cab and STILL throught the bulkhead. And still without know where or how exactly you cut or modified the wiring inside the cab, maybe affecting the main splice which is between ammeter and bulkhead ( black side ).

This charging deal on Mopars is a combinations of many thing what must be considered together, but being the main one, the amperage ( not the ammeter ) failure
 
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Lot of ppl makes mods on cars which are not regulary driven and under these circunstances they think problems are fixed with some mods. Just being a driver car you can notice not everything is really fixed and sometimes could be worst!
 
munger77 said:
PS, I've done the headlight relay upgrade and you'll be amazed how much brighter your headlights will be. I took before and after photos and will share them if I can find them on my hard drive (it's been about 18 months or so)...
Click to expand...
What is this headlight relay upgrade you are talking about. I just got a 67 charger and am wanting to do all the upgrades to it that'll make it a safe and reliable daily driver. Thanks
 
I haven’t looked at the 1970 FSM in a while. But I seem to remember Chrysler addressing the bulkhead resistance problem on the “K” police car version of the Belvedere. If I remember correctly, there was a grommet and a straight thru connection up to the ammeter. I’m would think you would need two though. A send and return.
 
just need to read what I have wrotte and drawn and being posted on several threads and boards... with lot of supporters and good experiences about that ( with some minor and critical members exceptions of course, as any other ideas from anyone )
 
Nacho-RT74 said:
just need to read what I have wrotte and drawn and being posted on several threads and boards... with lot of supporters and good experiences about that ( with some minor and critical members exceptions of course, as any other ideas from anyone )
Click to expand...

Being one of those critical members.....the drawings and sketches you claim are yours, were done by others with far more knowledge and experience in the design of automotive electrical systems and how they work. Perhaps the best thing for you to do is.....look, listen to others, learn the fundamentals, and most importantly, understand what you have learned.
BOB RENTON
 
The drawings I'm mentioning ARE MINE, but never have claimed any credit for the idea. In fact I allways mention is an old idea/technique from MaMopar back in the days that I'm just refloating and spreading it all around for those who doesn't have any idea about this option was available when using higher amp systems STILL ON STOCK AMMETERS. And nobody explained BEFORE with details every draw and why is made this or that, or how... and the reason WHY BYPASSING THE AMMETER IS NOT NECESSARY making correctly the mod/upgrade... and the CORRECT accesories sourcing

End of story.
 
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Buddy Hopson said:
What is this headlight relay upgrade you are talking about. I just got a 67 charger and am wanting to do all the upgrades to it that'll make it a safe and reliable daily driver. Thanks
Click to expand...

I do these... https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/plug-and-play-headlight-relay-kits.186716/

66-67 Charger a quite a bit different from a wiring perspective with the encased headlight buckets. More time and materials to provide a clean install.

I just sent a couple 66-67 Charger kits to Canada and Australia.

Your car, your choice. If you want to bypass the bulkhead and ammeter, do it. If not, then don't. I build direct charge wire around set ups as well if you choose to do the bypass. There are ammeter fans in here and those that don't like them. End of the day, pick your parts/approach, pay your money.

Rob
 
Crackedback said:
There are ammeter fans in here and those that don't like them. End of the day, pick your parts/approach, pay your money.
Click to expand...
Ammeter fans? I would describe it more like there are those here that understand the role of the ammeter as it was originally designed, the information the ammeter displays, how to safely maintain conductors/connections relating the ammeter/charge circuit on these 50+ year old cars, and how to not place added loads in the wrong location as to put the ammeter and related connections outside of the original design specifications. Understand as well that any electrical circuit handling any kind of current requires inspection and maintenance over time to remain operationally safe.

Then, there are those that buy into the myth that a properly loaded and maintained original ammeter will spontaneously combust for no reason whatever if it’s not by-passed and expect that all previous electrical work in the past 50+ years on that new toy in driveway was performed by someone who knew what they were doing.
 
Thanks to all the members that have posted diagrams with their explanations, independent of the actual opinion, the diagrams are great to learn from and understand. The electrical principles themselves are quite straightforward. Applying them to a newly purchased molar with severely melted bulkheads is great either way you decide to go
 
72RoadrunnerGTX said:
Ammeter fans? I would describe it more like there are those here that understand the role of the ammeter as it was originally designed, the information the ammeter displays, how to safely maintain conductors/connections relating the ammeter/charge circuit on these 50+ year old cars, and how to not place added loads in the wrong location as to put the ammeter and related connections outside of the original design specifications. Understand as well that any electrical circuit handling any kind of current requires inspection and maintenance over time to remain operationally safe.

Then, there are those that buy into the myth that a properly loaded and maintained original ammeter will spontaneously combust for no reason whatever if it’s not by-passed and expect that all previous electrical work in the past 50+ years on that new toy in driveway was performed by someone who knew what they were doing.
Click to expand...

If I post that, would get a huge disagree, and some quoting with a disrespectful reply LOL
 
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