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Amps

Turbobus

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Just out of curiosity what is the difference in a 30 amp alternator and a 100 amp alternator, other than 70 amps!
More wraps, different size stator or armature windings, can you tell visually?
Thanks
 
The 100 amp one is huge, looks nothing like the earlier stuff. Takes its own special bracket. Should be pics scattered around online.
 
Where do we start????? :poke:

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* If Amp is too big then either Volt needs more power (bigger number) or Ohm needs to reduce in size (reduce stranglehold). :)

What say you @RJRENTON ?
 
Ohms, Ohms .....



:lol:
 
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I would hazard a guess that higher amp output alternators weigh more than the lower output models.
Mike
 
Just out of curiosity what is the difference in a 30 amp alternator and a 100 amp alternator, other than 70 amps!
More wraps, different size stator or armature windings, can you tell visually?
Thanks
Usually its a amperage is detetmined by the size (AWG) of the stator windings and the number of turns per phase and the capacity of the diodes. The MOPAR alternator is a three phase device with a full wave diode matrix (6 diodes total, three positive and three negative diodes). The loss of any diode (either a POSITIVE or NEGATIVE diode) will result the loss of capacity by 1/2 the total published number.
BOB RENTON
 
Usually its a amperage is detetmined by the size (AWG) of the stator windings and the number of turns per phase and the capacity of the diodes. The MOPAR alternator is a three phase device with a full wave diode matrix (6 diodes total, three positive and three negative diodes). The loss of any diode (either a POSITIVE or NEGATIVE diode) will result the loss of capacity by 1/2 the total published number.
BOB RENTON
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I get it, but many won't. :thumbsup:
 
Keep in mind...it really doesn't matter what the rated output of an alternator is, if your car isn't demanding that amount of current.
The alternator will only 'get excited' enough to provide the current that your system is ***** for...in other words, you could strap a 200A alternator on there but if your car's total demand is 40A, the alternator will only squirt out 40A.
 
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I get it, but many won't. :thumbsup:
You are probably correct.....but....ignorance is not bliss.....IF those folks would give as much thought to the various systems of their cars and how they function instead of agonising about what oil to use or what wax to use or what spark plugs to use......these folks should consider learning a little....rather than relying on hearsay or some "buddy" that knows less......just my opinion of course.......
BOB RENTON
 
Will fry your wiring if it is 50+ years old and the connections are not in great shape.
Have all new wiring harnesses and using 72 GTXRoadrunner’s fleet bypass diagrams deleting 16 & 18 Packard connectors.
 
Stator wire sizing and rectifying diode current capacity basically. They can look exactly like original alts.
Any identifying markings on the diodes that differentiate their rating. At this point I’m doing your 16 & 18 Packard pin delete revision so that I don’t have a massive choke point/ resistance problem. It might be overkill on a stock system but then again it was weak from Ma Mopar as you mentioned in your videos. BTW, spent a lot of time in your state working in the energy sector, had a great job offer there,,,,, missed opportunities!
 
Will fry your wiring if it is 50+ years old and the connections are not in great shape.
Not necessarily. A 100 amp alternator won't put that much out unless there is an equal corresponding current draw. And even then, that size of an alternator is a small fraction of the 600 - 800 amps available from the battery itself.
 
Will fry your wiring if it is 50+ years old and the connections are not in great shape.
Have all new wiring harnesses and using 72 GTXRoadrunner’s fleet bypass diagrams deleting 16 & 18 pins.
 
Any identifying markings on the diodes that differentiate their rating. At this point I’m doing your 16 & 18 Packard pin delete revision so that I don’t have a massive choke point/ resistance problem. It might be overkill on a stock system but then again it was weak from Ma Mopar as you mentioned in your videos. BTW, spent a lot of time in your state working in the energy sector, had a great job offer there,,,,, missed opportunities!
Yes, the diode assemblies for the square-back are likely marked with some kind identifying numbers. Will be difficult to find a refence source to decode however. The best bet to determine, or verify, what you have would be to remove the alt and have it load tested somewhere. Before the current aftermarket high output Chrysler alternator offerings, a 105 amp upgrade kit for a stock Chrysler alternator was fairly common and relatively cheap, looks like the price has gone up a bit now.
 
The 100 amp one is huge, looks nothing like the earlier stuff. Takes its own special bracket. Should be pics scattered around online.
Probably should have revised my description to read what is the difference between a stock looking 30 amp amd a 65 amp alternator!
 
Yes, the diode assemblies for the square-back are likely marked with some kind identifying numbers. Will be difficult to find a refence source to decode however. The best bet to determine, or verify, what you have would be to remove the alt and have it load tested somewhere. Before the current aftermarket high output Chrysler alternator offerings, a 105 amp upgrade kit for a stock Chrysler alternator was fairly common and relatively cheap, looks like the price has gone up a bit now.
I’ll look for a place that will do that, so far the places I’ve found only test at full rpm and say yes it’s good or not good. Unfortunately that is the world we live in,,,,, I remember when I was younger, there were automotive machine shops / repair on every corner. For a times they are a changin’
 
I'm curious if anyone has tested different alternators to see how much mechanical load they have. Different alternator fan designs and rotor windage might be a bigger factor than the actual electrical load on the alternator?
 
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