Another 318 build to ponder.

[WAYNES WORLD]

Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6901/make/chrysler Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne

 

[Master Gunner]

Not really sure why you want to build a 318, when it costs just as much to build a 360 and the two are are almost identical on the outside.

Mark

 

[WileE]

All that... on a 318 through factory stock log exhaust manifolds ? Why bother ?

 

[66Satellite47]

Although I'm not a big 318 fan, sounds like you have a pretty good combination going there. The LD4B is an excellent piece.
If it were mine, I'd start with a 360, but what you have is what you have. The 340 exhaust manifolds would be noticeable improvement, headers even more. But it's your car. do what you like. A 2 1/2 system should be real good.
I swapped the 318 in my Dodge van for a 360 with a bit larger cam and headers. Amazing difference in towing ability and MPG improvement. The LD4B is really hard to beat.

 

[roadrunninMark]

I am building up a 318 as well. It is the original engine to my car. If I were you, I would build a 42rh trans to have overdrive. It has the better first gear already and cost is little more compared to build up as the 904. Get a 92-94 year with the lock up convertor. It is a good idea to get a higher stall too. It will need some extras to help control it but cheaper then buying the different gear set for the 904. You can use a 3.55 gear and have acceleration and a cruising gear at the same time.
I went with the kb167 pistons to increase CR. I will be getting a set of aluminum heads instead f messing with old iron heads. It isn’t that much more to go with a modern head.
You can use the magnum exhaust manifolds, cheaper and better then the old manifolds. They need a little work for port match but are cheap through rockauto.

Keep us updated on your progress.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

I would do the 702 voodoo over the generic summit cam. 3k stall is a bit high for 3.23.. if it's a loose convertor...all depends on the convertor. I would think 360 manifolds from the mid 70s would fit and be affordable and be a upgrade. But I am not certain what fits in your car. The 71 and newer 340s pass manifold sure looks like a 360 2 barrel.

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

Not really sure why you want to build a 318, when it costs just as much to build a 360 and the two are are almost identical on the outside.

Mark

I want to retain the converter, oil pan, balancer, DS water pump and crank pulley system I have so my AC brackets and everything else line up.

 

[toolmanmike]

Here’s my 318 build.

Plan is to use most of what I have and as usual it’s a budget build. The goal is a good performing street ride in my 66 Coronet. It’s got 3:23’s , 904 with the A&A low first gear set. Shift kit, 5k governor with the higher shift point 1-2 shift spring. advertised 3k street rod converter. Not looking to tear up the streets but a fun car that’s pretty quick, can run on the highway, has AC and runs on pump gas.
I have the following parts that I can use:
302 heads cut .050 to 54 cc, larger 360 valves, port/polish, blended bowls, matched to the intake. PC seals and new springs for the cam. 273 adjustable rockers and custom length pushrods.
I have a Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k6901/make/chrysler Duration 276/288, Lift .441/.441 cam but also considering the Lunati 10200702LK VooDoo 702 stick Duration 262/268, Lift .475/.494
600 Edelbrock carb and LD4B intake
Mopar Dist with chrome box recurved and a blaster 2 coil
I have a complete rebuilt 273 short block that I can sell or use the polished forged crank reworked rods with arp bolts in the 318.
The 318 would be bored .030, line honed and the deck cleaned. My plan is to use a set of the KBPKB167KTM.030 or another recommend piston and since they are around .015 above the deck use the Fel-Pro 521SD head gaskets.
I would prefer to run exhaust manifolds to keep with a somewhat stock appearance so looking for recommendations. I have a late model LA series set but they are 2-1/4 pipes and the rest of the exhaust is a 2-1/2 mandril bent system with a cross over so I hate to choke it down. A nice set of 340 ones are out of the budget. Might look at a set of the short style headers if I can’t find a suitable pair of irons.

So, this is the basis of my plan! Please provide any thoughts or recommended changes. Also, if anyone is near Manchester MD 21102 that’s selling a 318 short block, please let me know.

Thanks,
Wayne

It should run good. Nothing wrong with a 318. A member on FABO just built a stroker (392 cubes) and it dyno'd @ 475 hp/486 tq. Now you can't argue with that. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/picking-up-my-318-392-stroker-friday.504845/

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

I would do the 702 voodoo over the generic summit cam. 3k stall is a bit high for 3.23.. if it's a loose convertor...all depends on the convertor. I would think 360 manifolds from the mid 70s would fit and be affordable and be a upgrade. But I am not certain what fits in your car. The 71 and newer 340s pass manifold sure looks like a 360 2 barrel.

It's a Huges converter so the typical stall is usually based on a 350 chevy. It seemed much closer to 2500 with the 273. Was also told the 360 magnum manifolds would work for about 325 HP. If I need to go with headers I could just prefer the fit of the iron.

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

I am building up a 318 as well. It is the original engine to my car. If I were you, I would build a 42rh trans to have overdrive. It has the better first gear already and cost is little more compared to build up as the 904. Get a 92-94 year with the lock up convertor. It is a good idea to get a higher stall too. It will need some extras to help control it but cheaper then buying the different gear set for the 904. You can use a 3.55 gear and have acceleration and a cruising gear at the same time.
I went with the kb167 pistons to increase CR. I will be getting a set of aluminum heads instead f messing with old iron heads. It isn’t that much more to go with a modern head.
You can use the magnum exhaust manifolds, cheaper and better then the old manifolds. They need a little work for port match but are cheap through rockauto.

Keep us updated on your progress.

Thanks for the info. I already have the completed trans and gears so I'm using it. I'll look into the manifolds. What heads are you using?

 

[F4R/T]

I have a built 318, solid cam,high comp, X heads, 800 AVS, headers, 904 loose converter and 4:11s and honestly it’s a fun car not the fastest in a B body but just fun. It’s the original engine in it and I was fine with it.. the more someone say no the more I say let’s do and see how it does.

 

[Master Gunner]

I understand if it's the original engine, but if you're buying a block? If this is how you want to go, I would give the guys at Hughes Engines a call and tell them what you want to do, and the parts you have, and let them recommend a cam. All those guys do is mopar, and know what they're talking about.
Anyway, Good luck with your project.

Mark

 

[Rebel74]

Not really sure why you want to build a 318, when it costs just as much to build a 360 and the two are are almost identical on the outside.

Mark

What's the cost to build a 360 (to what HP/torque)? And what's the cost to build the 318 to something comparable? Assuming one already has a 318, vs having to acquire a 360?

 

[RemCharger]

500 bucks tops?

 

[Rebel74]

500 bucks tops?

For either? 500 bucks to acquire and build up a 360? Are we talking straight stock "as from the factory"? Or ...?

 

[WAYNES WORLD]

My concern with the 360 is using my converter, balance issues or what will I need to do.
The lower hose on my radiator is on the DS so I use the 273 water pump. Its a nice stock looking stamped upper aluminum rad and I don't want to buy another one.
The big thing is my custom set up for my AC. Will my 273 crank pulley fit the 360 balancer? and will it line up to the water pump? I really don't want to have to redesign the system.

 

[Master Gunner]

Ok, in your original post you mentioned selling the 273 to help finance this build. If you're going to use parts off the 273 then you are pretty much committed to the 318 as the rotating assembly (less the pistons) is the same. Spending the same amount on a 318 and a 360, the 360 will still make more power than the 318.

The 360 was originally used in trucks, and is a good torque motor (longer stroke compared to the 318/340) and became the HP engine after the demise of the 340, and can use many of the 340's HP parts, minus the rotating assembly. If you're looking to make some power, the cheaper way to go is the 360. In the end it will always be 40 cubes bigger.

I have nothing against a 318, and if it was the original motor, I'd say go nuts and build the crap out of it, but it's not.

Mark

 

[66Satellite47]

My concern with the 360 is using my converter, balance issues or what will I need to do.
The lower hose on my radiator is on the DS so I use the 273 water pump. Its a nice stock looking stamped upper aluminum rad and I don't want to buy another one.
The big thing is my custom set up for my AC. Will my 273 crank pulley fit the 360 balancer? and will it line up to the water pump? I really don't want to have to redesign the system.

Adding the 360 weights to the convertor is no big deal, info on the weights and positions is on the web. Far as I know the water pump is a direct swap. Don't know if the 360 damper has the same pulley bolt pattern. I'd check the DC/Mopar Performance manuals. They also may have the convertor balance info too.

Edit: The 360 has a lot more torque that makes it an easier driver.

 

[F4R/T]

Dampers would be different due to internal and external balance..

 

[66Satellite47]

Dampers would be different due to internal and external balance..

Yes they are different. Not sure about the pulley bolt pattern.
With a 360 you need to use the 360 damper.