Any Construction Experts , Home Builders

[1 Wild R/T]

LOL
I'm sure your building codes are different than what we are all talking about.
I am leaning towards the framing over the windows was like that from the get go and the trim guys worked their magic and covered up the framing.

I have no doubt that's how it was from day one.... Doesn't mean it was correct... And if it were the upper floor of a two story house... Or a single story house it still wouldn't be code but it would probably never be an issue... But it's the lower floor of a two story house so it supports the load of the upper story along with the roof... It's sagged probably 1-1.5" which clearly is a sign it's not up to the load...

Yeah, Wisconsin doesn't get Earthquakes, Hurricanes or hopefully even Tornados... But... Wisconsin does get Snow Load and Wind.....

We're all looking at pictures on the internet, I'd suggest having a local professional have a look while you have things exposed...

 

[1STMP]

I have no doubt that's how it was from day one.... Doesn't mean it was correct... And if it were the upper floor of a two story house... Or a single story house it still wouldn't be code but it would probably never be an issue... But it's the lower floor of a two story house so it supports the load of the upper story along with the roof... It's sagged probably 1-1.5" which clearly is a sign it's not up to the load...

Yeah, Wisconsin doesn't get Earthquakes, Hurricanes or hopefully even Tornados... But... Wisconsin does get Snow Load and Wind.....

We're all looking at pictures on the internet, I'd suggest having a local professional have a look while you have things exposed...

I'm not gonna say it's an easy or
cheap fix, but I've seen it done a few times.
Cut the bottom 2x4 thru dead center,
one jack on each side of the cut until
level.
(leave enough space to place at least
2 2x4's as verticle supports, three or
four is optimal as the opening will
depict your window size and availability.
Toenail in new sopports.
4 new windows are in your future.
All this is of course you if you don't
want to rip out what's there, and
frame as KD suggested, and you can
keep your bigger windows.
Note: this is only a measure to
control the deflection.
If there's no weight on that wood
above the windows, tearing out
what's there and turning it 90 degrees
might work, just turn the "bow" high
point to the inside so you have
something to nail to for your finished
wall, keeping in mind you'll have gaps
behind your finished wall that extend
out from center until you get to the
end supports on both sides.
(the bow in the wood will still be
there).
Hope this helps, and there's been
some great advice handed out here.
Helping fbbo members is what this
site is all about.

 

[Richard Cranium]

accept maybe a steel beam..

Steel works!

I had the same issue over my sliding doors 15+ years ago at my place in NH, which is somewhat built like a post & beam construction. One winter, we couldn't open one slider because of the snow load on the roof. In the spring, I stripped off the interior walls & you can see below the the shoddy construction that caused this issue. The beams go through to the exterior and support a balcony above and the first step was to take all of the weight off and strip out all of the garbage construction.

Since I couldn't get a proper wood header in a 6" space, my solution was to install 1/4" X 3" X 6" box channel steel supported by 4X4 posts on each side of the slider.

 

[Rebelrouser]

I built my own home and several shops, not a professional carpenter, but they installed windows too large for the wall, no room for a proper header to carry the load. If there were building inspections done, this should have never passed inspection. Even if they tried to get by with a double 2x4 header the boards are installed the wrong way. Grain of the wood should be carrying the load, your 2x4's are laid flat not on edge.
I am really surprised that the glass has not cracked from the load. Site to check out.
What Size Header Is Needed for a Window

 

[Hey-O]

I have worked around this thread for two days and have not said a word, opinions are not the same as code. I can only speak to what I see in the pictures and there is nothing about what I see that would or should, the way it is, be called built to code. I apprenticed as a carpenter and built a few homes, to say the least. I don't see a doubled up band board, what you guys are calling a rim board, in the pictures. I could tell you how to fix it, but, the first thing that needs to be done is to get the city out there to tell you what code calls for. You could never legally resell that house the way it is where I live now due to discloser. Codes vary from one area to another, but right is right and wrong is wrong. The opening was not build to code. The header should be a double 2x10 with a piece of 1/2 inch plywood, for a 2x4 wall framing. On 2x6 use three 2x10's and two 1/2 inch pieces of plywood or OSB. That makes 5 1/2 inches thick, which is the width of a 2x6. Start with a 2x10, then plywood, then another 2x10, then plywood, then the last 2x10. Code might even call for 2x12, code in your area will determine all that depending on the length of the opening. From what I see the distance from the floor to the bottom of the sill would have been less if the proper header had been built from the top down or smaller windows. It almost looks like he started with the height he wanted for the opening off the floor, added the window and then realized there wasn't enough room at the top for the right header. Check code in your area, that's my advice.
Those windows will eventually break from the load on them. Windows are nailed in an open to hold them in place and basically float, but, not meant to be load bearing. Take for instance a windows in a log cabin, they are never nailed in place due to the changing in the dimension of the logs over a period of time. I have seen them nailed in and usually in the first two years when the logs do most of their changing the window will break, a different subject for a different time, but, you get my point. This picture is of a basic header for a 2x6 wall. Good luck!!

 

[Jesse6869]

Here’s my header in a pole barn over kill but 2x12 just because, easy money. Getter done.

 

[Cranky]

Those windows are leaking as this is all water damage and that is not a header above the windows...

Or they sweat a lot during temp changes. I assume they are double pane insulated but I've seen DPI windows sweat before too.

 

[Big Bad Dad]

I was a contractor, and spent some time as a building inspector many years ago. My opinion, I see the possibility that the load bearing wall was framed and studded as usual. Them someone decided to add the too large windows after the framing inspection, and possibly after the final inspection. No way would that have passed a competent inspection with any floor being supported over it.
I don't know where the OP is located, but the required header dimensions could vary due to the snow loads in the area.

 

[Hey-O]

Or they sweat a lot during temp changes. I assume they are double pane insulated but I've seen DPI windows sweat before too.

My opinion also. Not only my opinion, I would bet that's exactly what's going on there. Easy to figure out, drill an 1/8 hole in one area and see if it hits hard or soft wood as you drill through it.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Here is the OP's situation he has now. He says they did double up the rim board over the windows and notice that there is no header over his windows because the double rim board becomes the header if done like this.

Around my parts we would frame it more like this but notice there is no rim board
in this photo.

 

[Kern Dog]

Technically, those joists have full bearing at the top plate but have a 2x4 or 2x6 band along the top....recessed into the end of the joist. The band is there to provide backing to nail the floor plywood.

 

[Bee1971]

69 Sleeper

"Here is the OP's situation he has now. He says they did double up the rim board over the windows and notice that there is no header over his windows because the double rim board becomes the header if done like this."

Superfreak

"If you have two rim joists supporting over the windows then your fine provided that they are well nailed together and this makes a flush header/beam . That is standard framing practice perfectly good to code which allows for more window space. (That is 44yrs of construction talking)"

 

[Bee1971]

So in theory

This is exactly what I have going on in this picture you posted , diagram

Except the position of the Cripple Boards above the windows

 

[Big Bad Dad]

Here is the OP's situation he has now. He says they did double up the rim board over the windows and notice that there is no header over his windows because the double rim board becomes the header if done like this.


View attachment 1412164

Around my parts we would frame it more like this but notice there is no rim board
in this photo.
View attachment 1412165

You are not factoring in the length of the header spans in your diagrams above. Those lengths will dictate the size of framing lumber in the header. In addition, I see you say "around your parts". What is the snow load calculation required in Tallahasee Florida? (Of course, I don't know the OP's location. Never heard of Sobieski.)

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

You are not factoring in the length of the header spans in your diagrams above. Those lengths will dictate the size of framing lumber in the header. In addition, I see you say "around your parts". What is the snow load calculation required in Tallahasee Florida? (Of course, I don't know the OP's location. Never heard of Sobieski.)

You are correct as this is just a general diagram showing this type of construction which I am trying to give a visual to everyone.
In my parts we have wind load not snow load.

 

[69 Sleeper Bee]

Technically, those joists have full bearing at the top plate but have a 2x4 or 2x6 band along the top....recessed into the end of the joist. The band is there to provide backing to nail the floor plywood.

I was trying to show more about the fact that the floor joists sit on the wall without the rim board and thus you need a header over any opening.