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Any "must" upgrades for my 727 rebuild?

Secret Chimp

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I'm in the middle of taking apart the 727 out of my '67 Coronet wagon. I busted the low/reverse drum, output shaft support and have a scored stator shaft too, but aside from replacing those with stock parts otherwise I am just looking at a basic rebuild.

It's a 4000 pound car, stock 1995 318 Magnum with a 3.23 rear end. The most I ever plan on doing is maybe getting a mild roller cam/spring upgrade from Hughes but in all likelihood I'll leave it stock.

Would it be worth spending money on anything beyond a "high performance" rebuild kit with Raybestos HP clutch plates & Teflon seals and the like? I'm curious if it'd be worthwhile using upgraded servos or not. The only change I ever made to it was adding a B&M 10226 kit. If the heavier-duty components are more for people drag racing or running big blocks, I'd rather put that money toward a better mild stall torque converter.
 
You don't even need the HP rebuild kit, or fancy clutches, they are quite capable in stock form. And a small block just doesn't have enough torque to hurt a 727
 
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At first I wanted to say a bolt in rear sprag and a 4.2 band lever.
You are not racing,doing burnouts,slicks and the like. Stock rebuild sound fine.
 
A deeper pan with the filter spacer. The deeper pan holds more fluid of course, but it has a drain plug!
 
i would not use hp kit for the street. yes deep pan i keep it a quart short so when the car is sitting and the converter drains back keeps it from leaking. i used the b&m kit but i did the rv specs and kept the big spring between the valve body in which they tell you to remove but 1st to second was to harsh for me with the spring out. with that rv and the line pressure for the rv it did firm up both shifts a little but the big thing the car shifts at 5100-5200 rpms wide open... perfect.
 
If you run a deeper pan, you should also run a filter extension to keep the filter down near the bottom of the pan. Measure the depth of your stock pan, and then measure the depth of your deep pan. The difference is the length of the filter extension you need. A&A Transmissions near Indy sell filter extensions in a variety of depths. I put the standard factory 8 quart fill in the pan and remark the new "full" level on the dipstick by drilling a 1/16" hole at the fluid line on the stick. Then I drill a new " add" mark by using the original distance between "add" and "full" on the stick. Another nice addition is the factory "O"-ringed pan gasket used on A-518 truck transmissions. This gasket may come as part of the pan kit; I don't know. You might want to upgrade to 4-planet sun gears while you have it apart. If your transmission has a 2.9 or 3.2 lever in it, I would replace it with either a 3.8 or 4.2. A&A sells these. They also have a kit that puts 5 clutch discs in a 4 clutch front drum. Basically what these are, are forward clutches made the same thickness as the rear clutches.
 
We run 3 pin planets all the time. The front planet splines will fail before the gears themselves. Even then It's either using a trans brake or over 800hp. Seen stock eliminator transmissions with 2 pin planets. A 4 friction front clutch pack will easily hold 700hp. In the F.A.S.T. series some run low ratio band levers to reduce the chance of tire spin on the 1/2 shift. The standard bolt in low roller clutch assys (sprag) were meant for case repair. They offer no upgrade. With the combo being asked about, a stock 727 with a decent shift kit is overkill.
Doug
 
stock dip stick is fine. jegs, summit, mancini

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Thanks guys, this will save me some cash. This is my only Mopar or old American car of any kind, so I'm still learning after owning it for almost a dozen years. I'll probably go with a bigger pan so I can run better temps without needing a cooler - car gets the most miles running around town.
 
There's plenty of good trans advice. A roller cam for a mild 318? Save your money a nice flat tappet will work fine. Just use proper lube on cam and break-in oil and rev engine between 2000 to 2300 rpm.
 
There's plenty of good trans advice. A roller cam for a mild 318? Save your money a nice flat tappet will work fine. Just use proper lube on cam and break-in oil and rev engine between 2000 to 2300 rpm.
I am running a 318 Magnum out of a 95 JGC that I converted to carb, so I'm already in rollerville. I've been eyeballing this one from Hughes or their similar grind with the 110 degree LSA.
 
do you have power brakes
I do, but they are a bit overboosted right now. If "mid-range" vacuum is going to moderately drop effort, it honestly might be an added benefit, but I don't know what they mean by that.
 
My 727 is a rebuilt stock unit from a '68 Polara with a TF-2 kit and has held up well since '18 behind the 600hp big block and much abuse....Ima thinkin' you'll be fine.
I'm not much of a "burnout" guy but I very often run mine through the gears manually under hard throttle. Granted, I'm not sticking slicks to the pavement and jarring the drivetrain to death but traction is decent (for the street) with M/T drag radials and stiff springs.

Would you happen to know what extension is required for the Amazon pan?
I can't answer for that specific pan, but places like the Summit have filter extensions that should work.
You're on the right track wanting to run an extension.
Some have argued it's "not needed" but if you're adding pan depth you always want to keep the pickup toward the bottom of the sump, just like you would in your oil pan. Fluid aeration is never a good thing and anything you can do to minimize it helps.
 
I'd ask Amazon where it says "looking for specific info." Ask does pan come with filter extension? If not what one I need and where to get it? I'd buy from Summit.
 
Measure depth of stock pan, and then measure depth of deep pan. The difference is the height of filter extension needed. A&A Transmissions near Indy sell a variety of extensions.
 
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