Anyone install Vintage Air in a 1967 Coronet?
- Thread starter Billccm
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A better idea if originality isn't important but you want the best design that was used on later models, go with a Saginaw. You can even get aluminum mounting brackets to save weight.
- Local time
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You can get a Saginaw pump at a NAPA store or any other auto parts store for around $60-70. The 440 source would probably not have a core charge though. I have something like 10-15 Saginaw pumps here from various cars and trucks I've parted out. I have a 440 on my 75 Power Wagon, a 440/495 in the red Charger and a 383 in Jigsaw. I have the same type Saginaw pump in all three with the same type pulley and mounting brackets.
Appreciate the offer. Believe it or not Vintage Air replied by email this morning and they might have an adapter bracket that will work. I'm supposed to get a quote Monday morning.
Leisurely Sunday wrenching in the afternoon. Decided to install the condenser and dryer to kick off the project. Discovered my first part shortage; no tube of o ring lube (yet checked and signed off on the packing list). Borrowed a jar of PAG100 from my mechanic friend. Everything fit and no real issues to report, so far. (I have been told part shortages will be frequent by my mechanic friend).
Plan for tomorrow is to call vintage air as soon as I'm up and resolve the power steering pump bracket issue.
Plan for tomorrow is to call vintage air as soon as I'm up and resolve the power steering pump bracket issue.
Okay first the update about the power steering bracket. If you guessed I had a TRW pump you are correct!
Kudos again to vintage air. After I sent photos of the power steering pump confirming TRW I received a call from Josh at vintage air. He was actually sorry he didn't mention the need for the bracket when I ordered, so he is sending me the bracket freight free and at a small discount. So far it has been a pleasure to work with vintage air.
Kudos again to vintage air. After I sent photos of the power steering pump confirming TRW I received a call from Josh at vintage air. He was actually sorry he didn't mention the need for the bracket when I ordered, so he is sending me the bracket freight free and at a small discount. So far it has been a pleasure to work with vintage air.
Pulling the heater box was straight forward, but getting the cluster and bezel free is a hassle. I just can't get to the speedometer cable. I'm done for the day. I'll contemplate dropping the column tomorrow.
Got other commitments going on, so not much work for today. I did get the speedometer cable off and the cluster out enough to get the control chassis and radio. While I'm at it I jumped the ammeter properly and heat shrink insulated the screw jumper. Also replaced the IVR with a real time engineering device.
I took a deep breath and dove into the controller today. I made myself read the instructions twice before I started. I'm about 75% complete and calling it a night after several hours and several trips to ACE hardware.
Vintage Air gave me three too many 8-32 nylock and two too few 10-24 nylock nuts. They also shorted me one measley Teflon washer. Two hardware store trips for $0.69 and $0.23 and probably $2 in gas.
Major mistake in the instructions that I spent way too much convincing myself that vintage air is wrong. The light bracket to control frame cannot be installed as the instructions show. The nylock will scrape the temp slider mechanism. I had to install with the screw heads clearing the sliders and the nylock on the lamp bracket.
The next mistake is it is physically impossible to mount the two control resistors with the supplied 10-24 3/8 screw. I spent an hour trying to get this to work and decided to use a 10-24 1 inch screw and it assembled easily.
Pictures attached. Note what I had to remove from the old controller.
Vintage Air gave me three too many 8-32 nylock and two too few 10-24 nylock nuts. They also shorted me one measley Teflon washer. Two hardware store trips for $0.69 and $0.23 and probably $2 in gas.
Major mistake in the instructions that I spent way too much convincing myself that vintage air is wrong. The light bracket to control frame cannot be installed as the instructions show. The nylock will scrape the temp slider mechanism. I had to install with the screw heads clearing the sliders and the nylock on the lamp bracket.
The next mistake is it is physically impossible to mount the two control resistors with the supplied 10-24 3/8 screw. I spent an hour trying to get this to work and decided to use a 10-24 1 inch screw and it assembled easily.
Pictures attached. Note what I had to remove from the old controller.
The controller is complete. I like the design especially the neat way the button openings are now the indicator for the modes. Two sliders now. One for the corresponding modes such as DASH, BI, FLR, BI, AND DEF. The bottom slider is temp cold to hot just like previous operation. Very innovative execution for vintage air.
Another complaint and not sure what I want to do about it. If I loosen the hex screw that holds the sliders on the pivot such that each slider does not pull the other, the washers will rattle. If I tighten the screw on so slightly to eliminate the rattle, the sliders sort of pull each other during adjustment. I think I'll go without the rattle and just consider the operation here two handed when it comes to slider adjustments.
Another complaint and not sure what I want to do about it. If I loosen the hex screw that holds the sliders on the pivot such that each slider does not pull the other, the washers will rattle. If I tighten the screw on so slightly to eliminate the rattle, the sliders sort of pull each other during adjustment. I think I'll go without the rattle and just consider the operation here two handed when it comes to slider adjustments.
Almost embarrassed to say it took about four hours to get the controller and radio back in the dash and install the block off plates (firewall and fresh air cowl). Again the shortage of one 1/4 20 bolt and two washers caused a hardware store trips and an hour sorting through my hardware cans for a measley two washers.
Now opening the slot in the dash for two sliders took a little finesse and decided to use a Dremel here and a steady hand from a friend. I still think the vintage air controls are really innovative and hope they function properly. Monday we will tackle drilling the firewall and getting the compressor ready for mounting.
Now opening the slot in the dash for two sliders took a little finesse and decided to use a Dremel here and a steady hand from a friend. I still think the vintage air controls are really innovative and hope they function properly. Monday we will tackle drilling the firewall and getting the compressor ready for mounting.
The Evaporator Heater box is ready to be installed, but I need to convince myself I have a good template to drill the firewall. Vintage Air supplies templates for every Chevrolet product built up into the late 1970s, 68 and newer B body, and even many Ford products. As for a 1967 you don't get a template.
You get a drawing that is way off scale in the bottom corner of the instructions page. So I made my own template using my trusty "marking ruler". This has slots that are in 32nd of an inch. I converted all of the fractions to 32 common denominator on the drawing and then converted to decimal so my calipers could confirm further.
My template is spot on, but because it doesn't quite look like the drawing I'm suspicious and not going to drill until my friend checks my work. Hopefully Monday I can get this heater box installed.
Vintage Air dropped the ball on my power steering bracket. It shipped finally yesterday after I sent several follow up emails. Need to get this job done as I'm starting to get back to a full time job in the next few weeks.
You get a drawing that is way off scale in the bottom corner of the instructions page. So I made my own template using my trusty "marking ruler". This has slots that are in 32nd of an inch. I converted all of the fractions to 32 common denominator on the drawing and then converted to decimal so my calipers could confirm further.
My template is spot on, but because it doesn't quite look like the drawing I'm suspicious and not going to drill until my friend checks my work. Hopefully Monday I can get this heater box installed.
Vintage Air dropped the ball on my power steering bracket. It shipped finally yesterday after I sent several follow up emails. Need to get this job done as I'm starting to get back to a full time job in the next few weeks.
Absolutely I'll even make you a fresh one.
Vintage Air must trust that their customers are very intelligent. While contemplating where to mount the Voltage Regulator and Ballast it occurs to me that the bolts or screws could contact the heater box. So, I measured and placed a "NO DRILL" area tape. Monday will drill holes to the right of the blue tape area for the regulator and a hole above the blue tape for the ballast.
- Local time
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I found that with the brackets on the evaporator, there was at least a 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" space between the evaporator and firewall. I mounted Dwayne's ECM, Ballast Resistor and Voltage regulator with no risk of touching the evaporator when I drilled for the mounting screws.
If you gave the opportunity to paint the firewall block off plate to match the color of the car, do it. This one blends in so well, it looks like it is OEM.
If you gave the opportunity to paint the firewall block off plate to match the color of the car, do it. This one blends in so well, it looks like it is OEM.
