Anyone interested in a 500" stroker build thread?

[tx67fury]

I'd like to hear more on that build too. Very close to what we are doing for Dans '66 Fury.
505 with the 440 source light weight crank, the 27cc dish pistons, zero deck, 0.040" gasket should be right at 10.0:1 compression with the 78cc Trick Flow 240s. 1.6 HS rockers, and Lunati 40230732LK cam. That is a small solid roller, 243/[email protected]", 0.617"/0.624" lift (with 1.6 ratio rockers.) Using stock main caps with ARP studs. Haven't decided on intake, headers, or oil pan yet.
Just dropped block off at machine shop Monday. When we get the block back, we plan to trial fit a few different oil pans and see how they clear the chassis and suspension.

For headers, the best for a c body are TTI...they are pricey but there just aren’t too many others out there with the same quality made specially for C’s. Oil pan will be a challenge, I know a body pans fit, but from what I’ve heard the aftermarket Milodon, etc will have clearance issues; having the stub frame and tie rods down there.

 

[451Mopar]

Yes Please. Just got my 400-470 block back and am ready to start putting it together. Might wait to see how you are going to do yours as far as sequence. Like crank first, ring fit first ect. My machinist was impressed with the Source stroker kit, Source heads not so much.

Clean block and parts.
Check the cam fit first. Usually machine shop should do this unless you install your own cam bearings.
Check clearances with micrometer and dial bore gauge if you have the tools. Plastigauge gets messed up when trying to remove the dowled rod caps used with the aftermarket rods unless you apply the plastigauge to the rod part of the bearing, not the cap side.
Hear I take the rods apart, clean the rods and bolts and reassemble with ARP Ultra torque lube. Torque to spec (First torque on the bolts with the ultra lube) then check rod big ends (size w/o bearing shell, roundness, taper, and bearing notch location.)
Mock assemble stroker kit without rings and only one pin lock installed to check block clearances, rod side clearance, crank end play, piston to deck clearance, piston valve notches in the correct place, and degree the cam. This results in a second torquing of the rod bolts with the ultra torque lube. Might want to also mock up/check piston to valve clearance if running a big cam too.
Final cleaning of block and parts if needed.
Once above is verified, install remaining piston pin locks, check/gap piston rings, and perform final assembly. This would be the third and final torquing of the rod bolts.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

My 511 build

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/roadrunner-8-4.101032/

 

[Hemirunner]

My 511 build

https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/roadrunner-8-4.101032/

Did you ever put that on the dyno?

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Did you ever put that on the dyno?

Nope, car is 4000# with me in it though. on a side note I’ve been playing with dominators on it. It Really likes those.

 

[wagonman]

Clean block and parts.
Check the cam fit first. Usually machine shop should do this unless you install your own cam bearings.
Check clearances with micrometer and dial bore gauge if you have the tools. Plastigauge gets messed up when trying to remove the dowled rod caps used with the aftermarket rods unless you apply the plastigauge to the rod part of the bearing, not the cap side.
Hear I take the rods apart, clean the rods and bolts and reassemble with ARP Ultra torque lube. Torque to spec (First torque on the bolts with the ultra lube) then check rod big ends (size w/o bearing shell, roundness, taper, and bearing notch location.)
Mock assemble stroker kit without rings and only one pin lock installed to check block clearances, rod side clearance, crank end play, piston to deck clearance, piston valve notches in the correct place, and degree the cam. This results in a second torquing of the rod bolts with the ultra torque lube. Might want to also mock up/check piston to valve clearance if running a big cam too.
Final cleaning of block and parts if needed.
Once above is verified, install remaining piston pin locks, check/gap piston rings, and perform final assembly. This would be the third and final torquing of the rod bolts.

Sounds like a good plan. I am at step 2 as the machinest did not have my cam. Fit well with a new 509 I have laying around, no binding as I have had with other shops. They verified mains when they did the line hone with My crank, bearing and studs. Came in at 3 thou.

 

[bearman]

curious mind here need to see. thanks