That was for the 1970 and newer style regulators, correct?
Anyone know of a source for an “electronic” voltage regulator that puts out no more than 14.2-14.4 volts?
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360Chris
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Yes, its a modified new style regulator with a pot on the back.
I saw those. Sure wish someone would do the same for 69 and older regulators.
Try Halifax hops
Sorry, I should have specified better. i wish someone would make an electronic voltage regulator for the 69 and older cars.
They do. Many of the replacements are electronic. Look on the back. If it doesn't have any resistors, it is electronic. THey look close to the old original points type. If you install one, make damn sure it is properly grounded. If not it will overcharge for sure. https://www.amazon.com/Electronic-Regulator-Chrysler-Plymouth-1960-1969/dp/B07HR1TDWB
I'm well aware of what the electronic regulators look like. Problem is that every single one being made currently regulates at around 15 volts. Hence my wish for one that is adjustable....
Woodwiz
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I guess instead of a separate new thread I’ll add my issues to the mix. I put in the Dakota digital dash in the 70rr and got it all hooked up a calibration done. At first I was getting the volt meter at idle to read between 17-18v…too damn high,would be comfortable at 13.8-14.2v. Now this is at idle with a standard old school alt.
A buddy suggested change the VR and that didn’t change a thing. Is there a certain VR that will work for the digital dash I have or is the dash the issue?
Could just be a bad (new) VR.
Someone suggested go to Yearone and order up a real Chrysler one and spend the $$’s once.
Any others with digital dash issues associated with VR #’s?
A buddy suggested change the VR and that didn’t change a thing. Is there a certain VR that will work for the digital dash I have or is the dash the issue?
Could just be a bad (new) VR.
Someone suggested go to Yearone and order up a real Chrysler one and spend the $$’s once.
Any others with digital dash issues associated with VR #’s?
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I would verify there is no alternator output with the vr disconnected and the voltage drop between the battery and the ignition 1 circuit at the regulator is within specs before dropping more money on another vr. I'm running a DD in one of my cars, no issues.
Did you measure voltage across the battery terminals with the engine running? If you are only getting 13.5 - 15 volts across the battery you shouldn’t see 17-18 volts at your instrument panel (I said “shouldn't see” and not “can’t see” as wiring can be monkeyed with).
Woodwiz
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What i was hoping to see at the battery terminals was 13-14v,but what i got matched the gauge in the digital dash 17-18v. So at least that tells me that the gauge works. It is after all plug n play.
I’m going to go through the calibration instructions again and see if I missed something.
Otherwise a better VR is in my future. When I took it out for an extended drive to set the speedo I was getting a high reading on the volt meter fluctuating up and down at different speeds. When I came to idle at stops it would show 13.8v which I considered safe.
Heading down the road it climbed back up. Hope it’s as simple as another VR. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks listening!
I’m going to go through the calibration instructions again and see if I missed something.
Otherwise a better VR is in my future. When I took it out for an extended drive to set the speedo I was getting a high reading on the volt meter fluctuating up and down at different speeds. When I came to idle at stops it would show 13.8v which I considered safe.
Heading down the road it climbed back up. Hope it’s as simple as another VR. I’ll keep you posted. Thanks listening!
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17-18 volts sounds like the alternator is in a full field state. Disconnect the VR and verify there is no alternator output while disconnected, that the regulator has control of the field current. Shorted field brush or field lead will cause the alt to full field.
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Woodwiz
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I tried another VR with the same results. Buddy of mine said stop messing around with the cheap Chinese crap and order up a Mopar (USA) one and that should do it.
The boys at my local Napa said it sounds like the alternator could be the problem. How can the alternator push those big volts through the VR if the VR is doing its job?
Maybe it is an alternator problem! I’m totally lost on automotive electronics!
I will check with my local alternator repair guy tomorrow and see what they say.
The boys at my local Napa said it sounds like the alternator could be the problem. How can the alternator push those big volts through the VR if the VR is doing its job?
Maybe it is an alternator problem! I’m totally lost on automotive electronics!
I will check with my local alternator repair guy tomorrow and see what they say.
It would probably be a good idea to have the alternator checked. But I recently had one checked by a rebuilder who said it was good and it apparently isn’t.
Does anyone know if a good shop can bench test an alternator and verify its response to afield signal representing a voltage regulator? Or do they just spin em up to verify they can put out a max 17-18 volts.
Does anyone know if a good shop can bench test an alternator and verify its response to afield signal representing a voltage regulator? Or do they just spin em up to verify they can put out a max 17-18 volts.
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Push through the VR? A "shorted field brush or field lead will cause the alt to full field." Again, disconnect the VR, verify it has control over the alternator.
I'm lucky as far as the old school alternator shop I use has a machine that not only tests the voltage output, but also loads it and checks the max amps each alt. puts out. Then prints out the results. The test doesn't take long but the alternator is nice and warm when it comes out.
Woodwiz
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I guess that push through the VR? sounded odd…sorry!
If the VR is doing its job I was under the impression that a high voltage number would mean that it was bad. Like I said I’m not good with electrical. Could any of the connections on the back of the alternator be hooked up bass akwards?
Never noticed any of the problems with the original dash with the ammeter gauge. Hence one of the reasons for making the switch to the digital dash.
If the VR is doing its job I was under the impression that a high voltage number would mean that it was bad. Like I said I’m not good with electrical. Could any of the connections on the back of the alternator be hooked up bass akwards?
Never noticed any of the problems with the original dash with the ammeter gauge. Hence one of the reasons for making the switch to the digital dash.
Do you have a round back, single field alternator? I don’t think the connections could be mixed up on the alternator without deliberate effort. As I understand it in layman terms ( I’m not great on electrical either). The VR evaluates the car system voltage levels through the ignition circuit and through the field wire provides a signal back to the alternator to adjust the alternator output accordingly. So most likely it is the VR, or the field circuit is somehow being shorted or crossed with another wire, or maybe the field coil inside the alternator has some fault.
And that’s about the total extent of my probably faulted understanding.
And that’s about the total extent of my probably faulted understanding.
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