Anyone know of a source for an “electronic” voltage regulator that puts out no more than 14.2-14.4 volts?

[Woodwiz]

Great news! The correct 70 RR alternator has just been installed and I’m happy to report that the voltage is at 14.2@ idle..a lot safer than 18v
Happy hot rodder!

 

[mrmolding]

Great news! The correct 70 RR alternator has just been installed and I’m happy to report that the voltage is at 14.2@ idle..a lot safer than 18v
Happy hot rodder!

Where did you source the 70 RR alternator and voltage regulator? Do you remember the model numbers? I went with the adjustable one earlier in the thread, but I would love to go stock.

 

[Woodwiz]

My local (Merle’s)Napa for the alternator $80
Mopar VR@ Summit racing $80
Here’s the VR with #’s

 

[mrmolding]

My local (Merle’s)Napa for the alternator $80
Mopar VR@ Summit racing $80
Here’s the VR with #’s

View attachment 1617039

View attachment 1617040

Thanks! So after those two you have about 14.3 or so? Do you know the model number or amps for the alternator. I bought a similar black VR from Mancini and it put out 15.5. Thanks again!

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Thanks! So after those two you have about 14.3 or so? Do you know the model number or amps for the alternator. I bought a similar black VR from Mancini and it put out 15.5. Thanks again!

15.5volts? Have you checked the voltage drop between the battery and the ign1 terminal at the regulator while running?

 

[mrmolding]

15.5volts? Have you checked the voltage drop between the battery and the ign1 terminal at the regulator while running?

You and I did this in another thread and you were a huge help! . I just want to know what parts he used.

 

[Woodwiz]

Napa
Part#213-2022
Alternator

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

 

[mrmolding]

I'm done with the tester I used in my post below, anyone interested, send me a PM! I tested a bunch of NOS ones and they are saved for a rainy day.

Fun with a Vintage Mopar Voltage Regulator Tester -- Miller C-4133

 

[RJRENTON]

If you are running points, find an old style original mechanical regulator. I'm sure I mentioned this before, but every single regulator sold today for the 69 and older cars with electronic guts will regulate around 15 volts. Unfortunate, but true. I got so fed up with them that I converted my cars over to Delco style alternators with internal regulation.

WHY don't you copy the circuit of the DELCO alternator. Gut one of your surplus mechanical voltage regulator and install the GM voltage regulator using the BLUE supply wire to monitor the battery voltage, in lieu of the GM's diode trio. There is NOTHING magical about the GM system. It has similar 3 phase full wave bridge rectifier circuit (physically different appearing, but performing the same function) to make the DC to charge the battery and operate the car PLUS it has a DIODE TRIO to furnish the DC via the internal regulator to power the rotating field windings. In the "internal" voltage regulator is a VOLTAGE DIVIDER network that controls the rotating field voltage snd ultimately the alternators output voltage. The output CURRENT is design controlled by the stator IMPEDANCE AND DIODE BRIDGE CAPACITY. It would be possible to mount the GM regulator inside the case of the Mopar mechanical voltage regulator. Because the GM voltage regulator is predominantly plastic, it would be fairly easy to isolate from ground, yet look like it belongs. Perhaps we should go in business and fill the apparent void.....??? We vould make beaucoupe $$$....NTERESTED????
BOB RENTON

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

This seems to be the most indepth thread on this issue so I want to ask you all a question. I have a recently rebuilt square back with the secondary field grounded, and a new solid state voltage regulator, and my volt meter is showing resistance when testing from positive to field with key on and balast resistor unplugged I am getting a volt reading of 2.004v debut on the ignition side I have .48vdc now that says that the voltage regulator is bad, now would that be correct or am I missing a step here? (The fsm states high voltage above .55v means resistance)

Other issue I am having is when the engine is running i have 16vdc at my battery at idle.

Edit.
440 with electronic ignition if that makes a difference.

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

This seems to be the most indepth thread on this issue so I want to ask you all a question. I have a recently rebuilt square back with the secondary field grounded, and a new solid state voltage regulator, and my volt meter is showing resistance when testing from positive to field with key on and balast resistor unplugged I am getting a volt reading of 2.004v debut on the ignition side I have .48vdc now that says that the voltage regulator is bad, now would that be correct or am I missing a step here? (The fsm states high voltage above .55v means resistance)

Other issue I am having is when the engine is running i have 16vdc at my battery at idle.

Edit.
440 with electronic ignition if that makes a difference.

Also there is a wire that goes from my alternator to the starter relay on the firewall, when I remove it my ammeter shows an over charging condition, I believe I should remove this correct? And correction idle voltage is 17-18v

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Also there is a wire that goes from my alternator to the starter relay on the firewall, when I remove it my ammeter shows an over charging condition, I believe I should remove this correct? And correction idle voltage is 17-18v

Sounds like the infamous under hood “shunt wire by-pass”. There is more to that story than is let-on by those who promote that by-pass as some kind of fix. Can you clarify what year car you are working with and just which regulator?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

Sounds like the infamous under hood “shunt wire by-pass”. There is more to that story than is let-on by those who promote that by-pass as some kind of fix. Can you clarify what year car you are working with and just which regulator?

1969 GTX and an Orielly solid state I picked up last month

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Some kind of aftermarket electronic version of the ’69 mechanical regulator? Any pictures of how you have these connected?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

1. Yes

2. What connections are you wanting to see?

Bulk head connector still looks new no heat damage, pitting, or corroding

 

[dadsbee]

He wants to see your regulator.... I'm betting you're trying to use a 70 x 2 wire vs and 69 and back "can".

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

69 oe style with field screw terminal and ign push on terminal.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

So, assuming a later dual isolated field alternator with one terminal ground as described, if you disconnect the field wire from that regulator, does it stop charging altogether?

 

[0DegreeEngineer]

So, assuming a later dual isolated field alternator with one terminal ground as described, if you disconnect the field wire from that regulator, does it stop charging altogether?

Correct, done by a local rebuild shop the case was also damaged. I will have to try that tomorrow. Bur the voltage was not consistent, it would have a high charge if i revved up he engine it would climb in volts to a mav of 18.6 then drop to low 17 high 16 after it idled down.