Ok so if I remove the field wire and it does not drop the charge voltage the alternator is full fielded? But if it does drop then I would be looking at the regulator again? or something else?
IF your system voltage rises as you describe, then the electronic voltage regulator is defective or it's not grounded properly. IMO....try a different voltage regulator as the existing unit may be shorted internally allowing full voltage to the alternator's field.....
The alternator was rebuilt and the "secondary", "extra" field was grounded to the case by the rebuilder.
If it were me, I’d be converting to the ’70 and up regulator if I already had a dual isolated field alternator. Will need to un-ground the second field terminal, insure both terminals are insolated from the alternator case. Will need a regulator pig-tail and an extra wire run to the alternator for the ignition 1 field feed.
I don't have room on my fire wall for the 70 and later style though, with the factory ac.
The underhood shunt wire by-pass? see post #133
It is my regulator, any recommendations on getting a replacement mechanical or electronic?
I stand corrected I am going to try and stick with the oe style pre 70. If I cannot get that to work I will change to the 70-74? route. Thank you for the suggestion.
You asked what was wrong with that shunt wire by-pass when installed as directed and promoted by many, with no or insufficient circuit protection and no other changes to the original wiring. It greatly increases the risk of an electrical fire in the event of a short, does not make this charging system safer by any means without further modifications. It is a band-aid fix as opposed to addressing any potential high resistance connection problems properly. The video goes on to show some suggestions on what it takes to run the by-pass safely for those who insist on running it rather than correcting or repairing any issues with the original wiring. I am aware of what the video says, I created it.
What are the specs of your "squareback" alternator presently in service? What is the drive sheave diameter? Is it a 2 groove sheave? Will this alternator produce 14.5 nominal volts (+/-)? IF it produces the correct voltage, it is possible that it has an OPEN diode, which exhibits OK voltage but under load cannot produce the necessary amps, which results in lower voltage. As I've said numerous times, the MOPAR alternator is a three phase (3 phase) full wave bridge design that uses 3 positive diodes and 3 negative diodes. AN OPEN DIODE, either positive or negative type, will result in one half of the alternators output (low voltage and insufficient current)......it is possible that this is the case. The alternator must be disassembled to test individual diodes, they cannot be group tested....in spite of what the auto parts person tells you. If they take it in the back to "load" test it, inquire about the test and you want to witness the test against a published test procedure....if they cannot provide a test report or allow you to witness the test, they're just blowing smoke up your ***.......just my opinion.....
